Adrian Ballinger

Adrian Ballinger is one of the USA’s premier high-altitude mountain guides, and the only American guide to have both AMGA/IFMGA guide’s certification (one of roughly 150 in the USA) and more than a fifteen summits of 8,000 meter peaks (17 total, including 8 summits of Mt. Everest, 1 without supplemental oxygen, as well as an ascent of K2 without supplemental oxygen). As founder of Alpenglow Expeditions, Adrian has been guiding full-time for over twenty years and has led over 130 international climbing expeditions on 6 continents.

In 2011 he, along with 2 Sherpa partners, became the first people to summit three…

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What’s in Adrian’s Closet?


“Frostbite is Failure” Interview with Adrian Ballinger: A run-through of every climbing shoe and mountain boot in his arsenal.

Mountain guides may be the most shoe-obsessed people on the planet. From rock shoes to 8,000m boots, every shoe has an ultra-specific purpose. In this interview, Adrian walks us through his favorite La Sportiva footwear for each climbing discipline. Have you ever wanted to take a peek inside Adrian’s closet? This is your chance!

Tahoe Via Ferrata TX4 Approach Shoe

“There are two reasons I really like this shoe for the 

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Everest Lightning Ascent in 14 Days

The Everest Lightning Ascent: Two Weeks to the Top and Back with Alpenglow Expeditions – words by Roxanne Vogel

Moving up from base camp on the north side of Mt Everest

Testing Rapid Ascent

When I nervously called Adrian Ballinger in the autumn of 2017, I had no idea I’d eventually be working with his company, Alpenglow Expeditions, on the first ever 14-day summit of Mount Everest. Long before the whirlwind trip that occurred in May of this year, I had reached out to him about a different rapid ascent, a climb of the world’s highest volcano—

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Interview: Adrian Ballinger Talks Rapid Ascent

As soon as Adrian returned from his successful #K2no02 mission, we caught up with him for an interview. We asked him all about pre-acclimatizing with Hypoxico and how the Rapid Ascent program plays into his climbing career.


Q: How does pre-acclimatization with Hypoxico work?

Adrian: “The Hypoxico system allows us to pre-acclimatize at home which is an essential part of our Rapid Ascent and Lightning Ascent systems for climbing big mountains faster than we used to be able to.

Essentially you’re in a tent and the system takes oxygen out of the air and replaces…

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The Road to Everest, Part 2


As part of our #roadtoeverest series, we have updated and relaunched this blog from our archives. The original post was written by Adrian Ballinger in 2012 and has been updated to be current.


Topo Mena, year after year, is the most psyched climber on the entire mountain.

Read Part 1 of the #RoadtoEverestSeries

Yesterday I wrote about what you should expect from your Mt. Everest guide service. Today’s blog is about you and what you can do to be ready to join an Everest expedition. Of course, there are many different ways to acquire…

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The Road to Everest, Part 1


As part of our #roadtoeverest series, we have updated and relaunched this blog from our archives. The original post was written by Adrian Ballinger in 2012 and has been updated to be current.


The Everest Question

While it feels like the Alpenglow Expeditions’ Everest 2019 teams wrapped up only days ago, Alpenglow is already thinking about Everest 2020. At Alpenglow, we spend nearly the entire year building our Mt. Everest team for the spring season. Many of my discussions with climbers will focus around whether they are “ready”

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Looking Ahead and Beyond the North Col (7,020m/23,030’)

Nobody blew away… but some tents at North Col Camp sure did!

As of yesterday morning (US time), all of Alpenglow’s 2019 Everest Expeditions completed their North Col rotation, despite challenging weather. Currently, we have 19 climbers on the mountain in Tibet. Our solo Lightning Ascent team member Roxanne, whose objective is to climb Everest in 14 days door-to-door from the United States, is waiting patiently in the states for a clear weather window. All teams are eagerly watching the winds and keeping an eye out for a shift in weather. With gale force winds in the…

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Four Everest Teams in 2019 for Alpenglow Expeditions

This year on Everest is unique for Alpenglow Expeditions and we’re leading four different teams up the tallest mountain in the world. Each team has a different goal, and ultimately a different style in their approach. For clarity moving forward we’ve named these team as follows:

Alpenglow’s Sherpa Team and a few of our guides prior to the puja ceremony at Advanced Base Camp.

The Rapid Ascent team on their way to base camp

Rapid Ascent Team
The Rapid Ascent team consists of 5 members, Caroline, Rob, Jim, Christina, and Kara. These strong climbers are…

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