Adrian Ballinger

Adrian Ballinger is one of the USA’s premier high-altitude mountain guides, and the only American guide to have both AMGA/IFMGA guide’s certification (one of roughly 150 in the USA) and more than a fifteen summits of 8,000 meter peaks (16 total, including 8 summits of Mt. Everest, 1 without supplemental oxygen). As founder of Alpenglow Expeditions, Adrian has been guiding full-time for over twenty years and has led over 125 international climbing expeditions on 6 continents.

In 2011 he, along with 2 Sherpa partners, became the first people to summit three 8,000 meter peaks in only 3 weeks (Everest twice and…

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The Road to Everest, Part 2


As part of our #roadtoeverest series, we have updated and relaunched this blog from our archives. The original post was written by Adrian Ballinger in 2012 and has been updated to be current.


Topo Mena, year after year, is the most psyched climber on the entire mountain.

Read Part 1 of the #RoadtoEverestSeries

Yesterday I wrote about what you should expect from your Mt. Everest guide service. Today’s blog is about you and what you can do to be ready to join an Everest expedition. Of course, there are many different ways to acquire the…

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The Road to Everest, Part 1


As part of our #roadtoeverest series, we have updated and relaunched this blog from our archives. The original post was written by Adrian Ballinger in 2012 and has been updated to be current.


The Everest Question

While it feels like the Alpenglow Expeditions’ Everest 2019 teams wrapped up only days ago, Alpenglow is already thinking about Everest 2020. At Alpenglow, we spend nearly the entire year building our Mt. Everest team for the spring season. Many of my discussions with climbers will focus around whether they are “ready”

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Looking Ahead and Beyond the North Col (7,020m/23,030’)

Nobody blew away… but some tents at North Col Camp sure did!

As of yesterday morning (US time), all of Alpenglow’s 2019 Everest Expeditions completed their North Col rotation, despite challenging weather. Currently, we have 19 climbers on the mountain in Tibet. Our solo Lightning Ascent team member Roxanne, whose objective is to climb Everest in 14 days door-to-door from the United States, is waiting patiently in the states for a clear weather window. All teams are eagerly watching the winds and keeping an eye out for a shift in weather. With gale force winds in the forecast…

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Four Everest Teams in 2019 for Alpenglow Expeditions

This year on Everest is unique for Alpenglow Expeditions and we’re leading four different teams up the tallest mountain in the world. Each team has a different goal, and ultimately a different style in their approach. For clarity moving forward we’ve named these team as follows:

Alpenglow’s Sherpa Team and a few of our guides prior to the puja ceremony at Advanced Base Camp.

The Rapid Ascent team on their way to base camp

Rapid Ascent Team
The Rapid Ascent team consists of 5 members, Caroline, Rob, Jim, Christina, and Kara. These strong climbers are considered our…

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The Days Before Adrian Heads to Everest

Happy Everest Season! Adrian Ballinger and our teams are wrapping up logistics before they leave for Tibet in less than two weeks. We asked Adrian all about his final preparations. We wanted to know what’s exciting and what’s nerve-wracking this season.

Q: Adrian, what do the last couple of weeks before Everest entail for you?

A: Mostly the last few weeks are just logistical stress! We’re trying to make all the moving parts come together and that’s everything from Chinese visas and permits, to all the equipment and food we need

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