Once you have become familiar and comfortable with gear placement and anchor building, and possess a solid foundation of top rope climbing, the next big step is to start lead climbing.
While leading, you will find yourself without the safety of a top rope, and so it is of paramount importance to keep a high margin of safety when learning to lead climb. The best way to do so is with the help of a professional guide. Learning to lead will propel you through your entire climbing career, and grasping the correct techniques the first time will ensure you start off on the right track. To begin, all leads will be done as a “mock lead” with the added safety of a top rope to create a safe environment to dial the technical skills and movement of lead climbing.
In this course you will learn:
-How to clip quickdraws and clip the rope into quickdraws
-How to lead belay
-How to safely take lead falls
-How to clip the first bolt when projecting
-How to communicate while lead climbing
THE ALPENGLOW DIFFERENCE
As a Tahoe-based guide company with countless expeditions to high-altitude peaks around the world over the last 15 years, we bring a wealth of experience and knowledge to our beloved “home mountain”. Our teaching and guiding philosophy has been honed from the flanks of the Himalayan giants to the technical peaks of Peru, and we are beyond excited to be able to bring our program to this fantastic mountain. In addition to our international expedition roots, we are accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), being one of the very few guide services in the region to hold such a high standard. Each of our guides is trained by the AMGA in the terrain in which they operate, and the program is supervised by internationally licensed IFMGA mountain guides. This high standard, along with our many years of experience, translates to a fantastic mountain adventure!
Meet & Greet
Meet and greet, introductions, goals of the day.
- 8:45 – 12pm
Morning Skills Session
Begin by reviewing gear and anchor techniques in various settings. After review, we move onto the main lesson of lead climbing.
- 12 – 12:30pm
Quick break for lunch and taking in the views.
- 12:30 – 3:30pm
Afternoon Skills Session
Continue building on skills that were learned during the morning session.
Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.
Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).
Recommended: Vaurnet Ice Rounds
Recommended: La Sportiva TX4
Recommended: La Sportiva TC Pro
Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended: Black Diamond Speed 30 Pack
Two 1L Nalgene Bottles
Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.
Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
Rock climbing harness that has gear loops, adjustable leg loops and waist belts. We recommend a harness that does not require the belt loop to be “double backed”.
Recommended: Black Diamond Zone Harness
While the technical equipment needed for a specific objective and season varies, this basic kit is a great baseline. Your guide will bring gear for you to use during your course, but participants are encouraged to bring some or all of this if you own it or are interested in purchasing it.
1 Cordalette (6mm x 5m/16.4′)
4 locking carabiners
2 non-locking carabiners
1 double-length Dyneema sling
Small prusik loop (6mm x 112cm/44″)
Auto-blocking belay device (eg. ATC guide)
Micro Traxion or similar
An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Vision Helmet – MIPS
Alpenglow was an amazing company to work with
Alpenglow was an amazing company to work with from booking to the actual rock climbing lesson. We purchased the half-day lesson on Donner Summit, and were blown away with the knowledge of our guide, Pete. Climbing can be an intimidating sport for people to try, but Pete’s positive and playful personality made the day very enjoyable. I highly recommend this company for anyone looking for a fun and challenging adventure to do solo, with friends or with your family!