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Let the Countdown to Everest Season Begin!

 

It’s time to talk about Everest

On paper, an expedition to the north side of Everest comprises of just 35 days on the Alpenglow Expeditions climbing calendar. That said, the reality for our team is that it’s actually a year-round endeavor. Preparations begin as soon as the last tent is removed from the mountain in the early summer. It takes half a year of logistics planning before boots can even set foot on the flanks of the mountain. Plus, every month of the year we’re training and climbing with clients on peaks across the world while they…

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Aconcagua 2020 – Polish Direct Route Update

In our last post, we talked about the team of Justin and Topo on their Aconcagua Rapid Ascent™, taking on the Polish Direct Route. Here’s an update on their progress.

 

Saturday, February 1

The guys had a final good night of rest in base camp, and in the morning they finalized all packing and sent a few loads of camp gear up the mountains with porters.  The first reports of challenging weather were beginning to trickle in and Topo was seeing a forecast that included a big wind event on the horizon. The plan at this point…

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Aconcagua 2020 – Climbing the Polish Glacier Direct Route

Normally, Alpenglow Expeditions Rapid Ascent™ teams climb the “360 route” on Aconcagua. The 360 route begins in Plaza de Argentina and ascends a less traveled route up the mountain, allowing our teams to move quickly by avoiding the crowds of the more popular Plaza de Mulas side of the peak. After attaining the summit, these teams descend the opposite side of the mountain ending their climb in Plaza de Mulas.

 

Climbing the Polish Glacier Direct Route on Aconcagua

In January of 2020 though, we have a single climber in a 1:1 guide ratio led by Esteban “Topo”…

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Ojos del Salado 2020 – Expedition Recap

Topo Mena led a team of Rapid Ascent™ climbers on Ojos del Salado this season. Below is a full expedition recap.

 

January 17 – Team arrives in Santiago

Most of the team arrived on time and in good spirits on Friday, January 17. They spent the day having a hearty lunch in downtown before taking a cable car to the top of Cerro San Cristobal for some sightseeing. The final client arrived that evening and with that, the team was complete and ready to head to the mountains.
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5 Reasons to Climb Aconcagua with Alpenglow Expeditions

You’ve gotten a taste of high altitude in Ecuador, Peru or Bolivia – and now you’re probably thinking about your next step in the high peaks of the world. Whether you’re on The Road to Everest or just looking to test yourself at higher altitudes, climbing Aconcagua is the perfect next step after you’ve conquered peaks in the 5000m – 6000m range.

A Rapid Ascent™ team leaving base camp on Aconcagua

 

1.     Your First 7000 Meter Peak

You have been to 6000 meters, and you felt great. Now you’re ready to test yourself at…

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Sam Kieckhefer’s First Cotopaxi Rapid Ascent™

On November 26 Alpenglow Operations Manager Sam Kieckhefer departed for Quito, Ecuador to join his first Cotopaxi Rapid Ascent™ Expedition. After becoming a member of the Alpenglow staff last spring, Sam has been working on international logistics for nearly a year. Cotopaxi would be Sam’s first opportunity to experience first-hand one of the expeditions that he has been a part of organizing. Furthermore, Sam is an aspiring ski guide, and Cotopaxi would be an elevation highpoint for him.

Sam’s expedition, led by Jaimie Avila, summited Cotopaxi on November 29th at 7am. After he returned from his trip…

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Top 5 Things Alpenglow Expeditions Does Differently on Mt Everest

Approaching the summit from the northside of Everest

We’ve always done things a bit differently than most other guide services, and it all starts with Adrian Ballinger’s visionary Rapid Ascent™ approach to pre-acclimatizing for mountains across the world. Read on to see how our Mount Everest Rapid Ascent Expedition is different than other international mountain guide services.

 

1 . Rapid Ascent™ Approach

While nearly all other mountain guide services continue to approach mountains the same way as has been done for decades, Adrian Ballinger knew there was another way. His main goal was to reduce the…

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Summit Success for the Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ Team!

 

Summit: Monday, November 4

At 8am local time on Monday, November 4, guide Topo Mena called us via satellite phone from the summit of Ama Dablam to announce “CUMBRE!!” Temps were brutally cold but the team had good stable climbing conditions and outstanding clear views from the summit at 22,349’ (6,812m).

 

Pre-Summit: A tough battle up to C1 and C2.5

On Sunday our team reached Camp 1 then headed up to camp 2.5 high up on the Mushroom Ridge. Everyone climbed hard, but illness prevented some of our…

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Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ Update

After a day exploring Kathmandu, Alpenglow’s Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ team flew from KTM (Kathmandu Airport) to Namche Bazaar via helicopter. After sorting equipment that will be portered to basecamp, the team began their trek to Phortse. The 5 hr trek through the Khumbu gave the team time to become acquainted, and they settled into their evening accommodations, a local Tea House in Phortse.

Best seat in the house. The team got an incredible view of the mountains on their heli ride from KTM (Kathmandu Airport) to Namche Bazaar via helicopter.

On a traditional Ama Dablam expedition,…

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Cho Oyu Team Update

 

The Journey to Cho Oyu

After months of endurance training, weeks of logistics planning, and days of travel, Alpenglow’s Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent expedition has begun their climb. The team is lead by guides Chad Peele and Esteban Topo Mena.

The team successfully made the trek from their respective hometowns to Chengdu and then on to Lhasa, with all bags in tow. This is the first victory of the trip, and always a good omen. After 2 days of driving across the Tibetian Plateau, the team arrived in Base Camp to settle in.…

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