Pisco & Chopicalqui

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Pisco & Chopicalqui

Intermediate 18 Days Peru

Build basic high altitude mountaineering skills. Become familiar with expedition living, carrying a pack on crevassed terrain, and staying in high camps on the mountain. Pisco and Chopicalqui are a great step toward bigger Himalayan peaks or the Seven Summits. Small team size and low ratio of climbers to guides (3:1).

Jun 11, 2024 – Jun 28, 2024

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Pisco & Chopicalqui

The Cordillera Blanca of Peru has been a destination for alpinists from around the world since the 1960s.

This tightly packed chain offers a huge variety of terrain, including 22,000’/6,700m massifs like Huascaran, steep fluted ice faces like those of Alpamayo, and technical rock and mixed faces like those of Cayesh. It also offers many peaks like Pisco and Chopicalqui that are ideal for building on basic high altitude mountaineering skills, all sitting above lush grassy valleys fed by clear alpine lakes.

Build Essential Skills

On this expedition we will climb two of those intermediate peaks. Pisco (18,972 feet/5,783 meters) and Chopicalqui (20,848 feet/6,354 meters) are perfect next steps for climbers who have climbed glaciated peaks, such as those in the USA, Mexico, Ecuador, or the Alps, and want to continue building their skills. Our itinerary allows for plenty of time for acclimatization and skills seminars. Chopicalqui requires that each team-member feels comfortable camping in a harsh environment on an active glacier, carrying a large pack on crevassed terrain, and climbing fifty-degree ice slopes on summit day. Our goal on Pisco is to ensure each climber has the time to build these skills, to acclimatize, and to summit one of the most beautiful peaks in Peru.

Ideal Stepping Stone

Both of these peaks require at least two high camps above Base Camp before our attempt on the summit. This is very different from the day trips we often do in the USA, or the huts we use in the Alps or Ecuador, making Peru a logical step toward bigger Himalayan peaks or the Seven Summits. You will become very familiar with expedition living by the end of this 18 day expedition, experiencing the best of the Andes. The people of Peru are incredibly open and friendly, and we will spend time traveling through their farming communities on the way to the mountains. We will work with a local staff of friends who will be our cooks, camp guardians, and occasional porters, and will provide insight into the culture of the local Quechua people.

The Alpenglow Difference

Certified and Professional Guides

Alpenglow’s Pisco and Chopicalqui expedition will be guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s AMGA/IFMGA certified lead guides. AMGA/IFMGA (American Mountain Guides Association /International Federation of Mountain Guides Association) certification is the highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. Our lead guides have all traveled and climbed extensively in South America and know the Peruvian Andes intimately. Their knowledge of Andean culture as well as the mountains, combined with their passion for teaching others to become competent mountaineers, guarantees that your experience will be one to remember! Our small team size and low ratio of climbers to guides (3:1) ensures that you stay healthy and strong, and are able to enjoy each component of your experience.

Quality Logistics and Base Camp Infrastructure

When it comes to climbing in the Cordillera Blanca, quality = success. We provide the highest quality logistics possible in Peru. Comfortable bus tickets for the drive to Huaraz, porters for all of our gear, professionally trained cooks and fresh food, hangout/dining tents for base camp; you’ll find that our base camp set up is designed to set you up for success as best it can be.

Preparation

FITNESS

Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca is a large physical undertaking, and climbers who are joining our teams should have at least a general understanding of what it takes to train for an expedition like this. For a personalized training schedule, please reach out to our in-house trainer: lynette@alpenglowexpeditions.com.

TECHNICAL

It is required that climbers have prior experience at altitudes up to 14,000′ and it is strongly recommended that climbers have prior experience at altitudes over 15,000′.

ALTITUDE

Prior roped climbing, cramponing, and ice ax skills are required.

Itinerary & Map

Pisco and Chopicalqui Itinerary

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Day 1: Arrival

Arrive in Lima in the evening/night.
Day 2: Drive to Huaraz

Drive to Huaraz (8 hours) where we are based out of Olaza’s Guest House, a small but beautiful hotel (10,000’/3,050m).
Day 3: Acclimatize and Organize

An acclimatization and organization day in Huaraz.
Day 4: Drive to Pisco Base Camp

Drive to Pisco base camp in the Llanganuco Valley (12,500’/3,810m). This 3 hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities and past the famed Llanganuco lakes.
Day 5: Hike to Cave Camp

Carry a load to Cave Camp on Pisco (14,000’/4,267m) and return to base camp.
Day 6: Move to Cave Camp

Today we move to Cave Camp on Pisco.
Day 7: Acclimatize at Cave Camp

Acclimatization day at Cave Camp. Today, we review glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills while we wait for our local staff to bring us a hot lunch from base camp.
Day 8: Climb to Moraine Camp

Today we climb from Cave Camp to Moraine Camp (16,000/4,877m). This climb crosses a rocky glacier before a steep ascent into camp in a small sandy basin just below the toe of the glacier.
Day 9: Summit Day

The climb to the summit of Nevado Pisco (18,872’/5,752m) begins on 3rd-class rock slabs before stepping onto the glacier. From the toe of the glacier, we climb moderate slopes to a saddle on the ridge between Pisco and the Huandoys. As the sun rises, we climb steeper exposed slopes and crossing multiple crevasses to the final summit bulge. This final slope is often very steep, necessitating excellent crampon and vertical ax technique and a tight belay! After our climb, we pack up high camp and return to base camp.
Day 10: Rest Day

Rest in base camp, where we enjoy the best food the backcountry has to offer from our local staff.
Day 11: Rest Day with Active Option

Another rest day, with an optional excursion to Laguna 69 (15,500’/4,724m), one of the most beautiful high altitude lakes in the world.
Day 12: Move back to Moraine Camp

Leave base camp, and ascend to Moraine Camp (16,000/4,877m) on Chopicalqui, with the help of one or two high-altitude porters.
Day 13: Rest Day

Rest in Moraine Camp, and possibly carry a load to high camp.
Day 14: Climb to High Camp

Move onto the glacier and ascend to high camp, which sits on a flat glacier bench at 18,000 feet (5,486 meters).
Day 15: Summit Day

Attempt Chopicalqui’s summit at 20,846’/6,354m. The route ascends a knife-edge ridge for over 2,000 vertical feet (610 meters), with long traverses regularly interrupted by short, steep headwalls. This is a summit to be incredibly proud of. In most years, only a few strong teams from around the world are successful. After the summit we descend to Moraine Camp.
Day 16: Descend

Descend to base camp.
Day 17: Drive to Huaraz

Our van picks us up early in the morning and returns us to Huaraz, where we celebrate with hot showers, a great meal, and salsa dancing at the local discotheque.
Day 18: Departure

We depart from Huaraz back to Lima to catch our flights (after 11pm). Say goodbye to your team and head home!

Alpenglow’s Peru Guides

Our Guides

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