Blog

Look Inside: Nepal Culture in 2014

Last weekend, our mountain guides left the United States en route to Nepal to prepare for our upcoming Ama Dablam expedition, which begins this Friday. Yesterday and today, our Ama Dablam climbers will also leave the United States for Nepal, taking two days to get there and hauling a plethora of climbing gear. While the team will spend a great deal of their time on the mountain, they’ll also spend time in different cities and villages in Nepal.

On the way to Ama Dablam, climbers travel through many Sherpa villages and towns. Sherpa culture is different from that of Kathmandu.…

Keep Reading...

More Than Beautiful: Ama Dablam

In two days, Alpenglow leaves for Nepal to begin our expedition on Ama Dablam. Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalaya, Ama Dablam stands alone in the Solu Khumbu (Everest) valley, towering over the Sherpa villages of Thyangboche and Pangboche. “It is my favorite single mountain that I guide every year” expressed Alpenglow founder Adrian Ballinger, during a recent chat about the beauty, skill, and calculated risk Ama Dablam presents to its climbers.

Frequently compared to the Matterhorn, Ama Dablam is often hailed as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.…

Keep Reading...

Ama Season Wrap-Up

One last update from the Ama Dablam 2013 team…to add a little detail to the fantastic effort put in by Adrian and the Sherpa to open the route to the summit, and by the climbing team in achieving a 100% summit success.

As mentioned before, this season, the route to the summit presented a number of technical difficulties that other years have been less significant or not there at all. Many teams early in the season had worked hard to fix the ropes between camp one and camp two – which includes the technical “Yellow Tower”- and then between camp…

Keep Reading...

The team has all summited!

After quick call from the summit and with Eagle Eye Monica watching their every move through binoculars from BC, we have confirmation that the whole Alpenglow team (Adrian, Greg, Jim, Neal, Emily, Pasang, and Tenzing) has summited Ama Dablam and they are now making their way down. We’ll be back with more upon their return to BC.…

Keep Reading...

Summit!!!

Summit!

Dorji Sonam, Pasang  Renji and Tenzing Gyalzen have successfully fixed the ropes to the summit of Ama Dablam!!! I’ve just been privy to a spectacular show of stellar climbing by our three Sherpa who went from camp 2 this morning to take up where they left off the rope fixing the other day. They reached the summit at 1430 Nepal time after 8hours of climbing and fixing ropes in 50km winds and cold temperatures…but they were super happy with the snow conditions and  judging by the joyous whoops on the radio they enjoyed their day of hard work. It…

Keep Reading...

Off they go!

Hello again from base camp. We have just enjoyed a couple of days of R&R all together in base camp in the sun…(albeit still in frigid temperatures!) in preparation for the task in hand. Although enforced rest is usually endured with chagrin, the team actually did pretty well at it this time! 

This could well have been because of a hefty dose of viral respiratory tract infection that half of our crew has been hit with! I detest “colds” at altitude with a passion. They are invariably the full cough, congestion, catatonia trilogy …and there is very little I can…

Keep Reading...


Ama Update

As promised…a bit more news from the team before it’s all HISTORY! 

First, let me update that Jenny and Scott decided to head on down to warmer latitudes..and altitudes! Their time was limited, and they quite rightly doubted that the route would be ready in time for Jenny to have a crack at it before she was due to leave…SO, they made an executive decision to cut their losses and go and have some Type 1 fun somewhere warm for a few days before heading home. I completely agree with their decision … and now I’m just sort of envious!…

Keep Reading...


Ama Dablam 2013 is in Full Swing

There’s been no down time for the Alpenglow crew since we arrived back in Nepal for our Ama Dablam season. I’ve probably written before that Ama is my favorite mountain in the world, and even after 11 times on the summit, I can’t wait to get back on the amazing ridges, fluted faces, and hopefully summit this incredible mountain. Alpenglow has 2 groups on the mountain this season. The first began their trek on Oct 23, and in perfect weather flew into Lukla and did a quick (thanks to Hypoxico pre-acclimatization) trek up the Khumbu Valley to base camp.…

Keep Reading...