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Wrapping up the 2012 Himalayan Season

Sitting poolside at the Kathmandu Hyatt in November…. this is the time and place each year that the Alpenglow guides and staff wrap-up and debrief the Himalayan season. At least it is where we begin our defrosting! Then it’s off to Thailand for our “annual meeting”. This autumn season in Nepal has been one of my most memorable since I began climbing in Nepal in 1997. And, as often happens with memorable seasons, it has had both highs and lows. The dark side is well known already – on Manaslu, a mountain I have guided and summited four times, one…

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Final Summits of the Season!

This morning we have had the final wave of Alpenglow team members on the summit. 

Chad Peele, Rene Bergsma and Charles Sherwood along with Nima Sherpa and Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, and a little later, but still in fabulous time, Brian Warren, Dorji Sonam Gyalzen Sherpa and Stuart Carder.

All are on their way down to camp 2.7 and we hope to have them back in base camp this evening. 

A wonderfully successful season on Ama Dablam is drawing to a close…and we are happy to have had a great time and great successes on the mountain. 

Thanks for following our…

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Heather Geluk’s Ama Dablam Summit Push – Summary

Camp 1 on Ama Dablam is perched high up on a rocky ridge offering just enough of a view of the route to the summit to conjure a range of emotions fluctuating on a sliding scale between excitement and sense of “what the hell have I gotten myself into…??”

Whilst it isn’t the most comfortable camping spot in the world, the fact that the sun crests over the mountain and hits the tents at 6.15 AM is a huge bonus particularly when everything seems to freeze solidly overnight and getting out of the deep, dark depths of a sleeping bag…

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More Success on Ama!

Monica writes:

More successes on Ama Dablam from the Alpenglow team. This morning Danuru, Pasang, Tenzing and Palden Sherpa stood on the top, as did Adrian, Ephi and Jon. They were all fast and strong and enjoyed warm and benign conditions with almost no wind. All have arrived back to base camp!

Congratulations!

….as for Brian and Chad and the rest of the crew. They made spectacularly good time to camp 2.7 and were all there in the early afternoon. I just spoke to Brian and he tells me that everyone is well-rested and excited to be on the move…

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Ama Dablam Summit Pushes, Waves 2 & 3

After celebrating the success of our first summit team, and saying goodbye to two of that crew (Sergey and Valdis left us a couple of days ago by helicopter straight to Kathmandu)….and welcoming back the others after their acclimatisation: the time has come to amp up for the next set of summits. The quick turnaround has been due to the advice from our friends and forecasters in Bern. The weather is “friendly,” temperatures have warmed by 7 degrees Celsius (which may not sound like a lot but makes a huuuuuuge difference) and conditions are stable! An opportunity that cannot be…

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First Ama Summit Attempts of the Season for Alpenglow Tomorrow!

The Alpenglow Ama Dablam group is lapping at the flanks of the mountain in separate waves as we had planned. Some are already flirting with the upper slopes, others are slowly gathering momentum on the fringes of her friendlier, lower angled approaches.

Chad, Heather, Valdis and Sergey are on their way up to Camp 2.7 as I write. The day from C1 to C2.7 is arduous to say the least. It encompasses almost every genre of climbing and is spectacular from start to finish…notwithstanding, it is also incredibly physically demanding. Shortly after leaving C1, the climbers negotiate long sections of…

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Ama Dablam Base Camp

I am happy to report that the entire Ama Dablam Expedition team is together again. The main part of the group arrived yesterday after a fun 7 day trek through the Khumbu Valley. The trek finished with a challenging day climbing 5550 meter/18,200 foot Chukkung Ri. Chukkung Ri is one of my favorite viewpoints in the Himalaya. It has stunning views of countless big peaks, and sits immediately below the imposing South Face of Lhotse, one of the biggest alpine walls in the world. The climb is also a good test for the group after mostly easy days trekking. We…

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Back up the Khumbu

The Alpenglow Ama Dablam team is well on its way up the Khumbu valley towards base camp. Yesterday and today, we were treated to our first spectacular views of the mountain, shrouded in a snowy layer that looks promising as far as climbing conditions go. A light layer of snow covering the hard glacier ice at the top of the peak will make summit day just marginally easier for everyone. Of course, we are in the early days and still far away…it could all change many times before it is our time!

So far, our group is doing incredibly well.…

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11 Summit Ama Dablam!

11 (6 members, 5 Sherpa) stood on the summit of Ama on 11/11/11!

They stopped at 2.7 on their descent to hydrate and give an update, and we’ll be hearing more soon from either C1 or BC. Congrats to all! …

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