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Sunrise on Pisco Summit!

Our Artesonraju/Huascaran team is off and running with a fast ascent to the summit of Pisco today, which acted as a perfect acclimatization peak for this very strong team. They were so quick, in fact, that Chad had underestimated their fitness and they wound up on the summit with time to spare before sunrise and were able to experience that very beautiful moment from a proud mountain top. They are spending the evening back at the hut and will walk out in the morning and head to Caraz, from where they will continue on to Artesonraju base camp and begin…

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One Trip Ends and Another Begins

After a successful summit of Pisco and an excellent effort on Chopicalqui, our team has some great memories of a few weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. As they arrive home, another team has arrived in Huaraz to begin their mission, beginning with an attempt of Alpamayo’s French Direct Route. Stay tuned.

Here are some photos from the Pisco/Chopi expedition.

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Photo from the summit of Pisco

We just thought we’d post a snapshot of Mike Stone and Will Renner on the summit of Pisco. There will be more to come. Right now they are back in town enjoying a well-deserved breakfast after high winds turned them around on Chopicalqui.…

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Turned by the Wind on Chopicalqui

After 3 days of rest and a bit of a storm in basecamp, the team began its move on Chopicalqui. Chopicalqui, at 20,848 feet is one of the biggest peaks in the Americas, and a true expedition peak. Climbing it entails placing three camps, carrying big loads on a big glacier with loads of crevasses, and wild summit day climbing on a knife-edge ridge, steep ice faces, and a double corniced finish.

After climbing Pisco and then a few good days of rest in BC with lots of great fresh Peruvian food the team was heathy, strong, acclimatized, and raring…

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Team Summits Pisco, 18,972 feet!

Alpenglow’s Pisco and Chopicalqui Expedition is off to an excellent start. Yesterday the strong group made the decision to attempt the summit of Pisco direct from Cave Camp (14,200 feet), skipping the upper Moraine Camp at 16,000 feet. This made for a challenging 4,700 foot vertical ascent. The group left at 1:20 AM in perfect weather, quickly passing the moraine and getting onto the glacier. Snow conditions are reportedly excellent this year in Peru, and the team moved well on the glacier with good technical skills. After passing lots of crevasses and a few snow bridges, the group neared the…

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Peru Team Moving Up on Pisco

We just got word that the Pisco/Chopicalqui team is settled in at Pisco’s Cave Camp. They’ve spent the last 2 days acclimatizing in the Llanganuco Valley below the peak, going out on day hikes and doing skills training. Today the team moved up to the grassy hanging valley immediately below the moraine and glacier of Pisco’s South Face. The group is strong and enjoying good weather. Tomorrow they’ll do another full day of glacier skills practice before moving up to their high camp at the edge of the glacier in preparation for their summit push! Stay tuned….

 

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Checking in from Pisco Base Camp

The team checked in yesterday from Pisco base camp. They are safe and sound, breathing well and feeling strong at roughly 12,500′. They will do a carry up to Cave Camp (14,000′) today and return back to BC for the night. It sounds like everyone is having a great time so far and we’ll plan on hearing details from them in the next day or two.…

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Alpenglow’s Peru Season Begins!

For the fourteenth year in a row, Alpenglow’s guides will be leading groups on the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. The season begins tomorrow with lead guide Jaime Avila meeting the Pisco and Chopicalqui group in Lima. These two peaks are a great next step to our introductory high altitude climbs. Each of the mountains require three camps as the team moves up from the green valleys to the moraines and ultimately onto huge crevassed glaciers. Pisco is first, famous for its stellar views of the entire Blanca range. Stay tuned for dispatches from the mountain!

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The Easy Life in Huaraz

Before the boys get too comfortable in Huaraz, we are heading to the mountains! The team arrived here complete yesterday morning, and ever since we have been eating excellent Thai, Peruvian, and Italian cuisine, with the excuse thaqt we have to fatten up before heading to altitude. there have also been some pisco sours, and even a rumor about some of the team visiting the local salsa club! So now it is time to get out and climb.

Tomorrow morning Tom, Amit, Andrew, and Vijay, along with Jaime and myself, will establish base camp on Pisco. Then we plan to…

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Headed up from Pisco Basecamp

Adrian called from the satellite phone this AM. He reported that the weather could not be better, and the group is really strong. They were headed out of base camp this morning, and hoping to summit Pisco on Thursday. I will write as soon as I hear from him again. Cross your fingers that the good weather remains!

 

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