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Alpenglow Eyes a Return to the North Side of Everest in 2023

Written by Robert Kyte

Since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, Alpenglow has been forced to cease operations on the North Side of Everest due to China’s strict zero-covid border policy. Alpenglow is one of a small number of companies operating exclusively on Everest’s North Side. This means we have not climbed the world’s tallest mountain since our last North Side expedition in 2019. We miss it! And while we remain unable to say with certainty whether or not we will return to Tibet next year, we are receiving a number of positive indicators from our partners that the…

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Alpenglow’s Return to the 360° Route on Aconcagua

Written by Robert Kyte

 

We are so excited to announce our return to the famed 360° Route for the 2022 climbing season!

 

Why Climb Aconcagua with Alpenglow?

There exists a multitude of reasons why Aconcagua should sit high on any mountaineer’s to-do list. At 6962 meters (22,837 ft.), Aconcagua is the tallest summit in South America and thus one of the storied Seven Summits, making it the perfect jumping-off point for anyone with Himalayan aspirations. Additionally, the 360° Route offers non-technical climbing all the way to the summit: consisting almost entirely of dirt and the occasional seasonal snowfield,…

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Alpenglow’s Success on Makalu via Rapid Ascent

Written by Griffin Mims, International Coordinator

On May 12th, 2022, Alpenglow team members Christina Ochs, Topo Mena, Ngima Tenzing Sherpa, and Phu Rita Sherpa summited the 5th tallest peak in the world after just 16 days on the mountain. At 27,766 feet (8463m) Makalu is one of the most difficult and coveted summits on the planet. Our Rapid Ascent Approach allowed our team to achieve this remarkable feat in only 26 days round trip.

We’ve broken down our Rapid Ascent Approach into three components: pre-acclimatization, Keep Reading...


Adrian has a plan for Everest 2022

Words by Alpenglow CEO & Founder, Adrian Ballinger

 

Confidence in April 2022

Alpenglow has confidence that Tibet will open for our Everest North Side 2022 expedition next April. We’re having good communications with our local partners in Tibet and they’re hopeful that they will begin normal tourism by the end of 2021, which should set us up well for Everest expeditions in the spring of 2022, a few months after Tibet has re-opened. They’ve been working with us to consider different potential requirements like vaccinations and COVID testing. Tibet and CTMA (Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Association)…

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3 Reasons Adrian Ballinger Thinks You Should Climb Aconcagua

 

Rapid Ascent™ distills the expedition down to all its highlights

By preacclimatizing at home before the start of the trip, our teams spend a mere 14 days attempting Aconcagua, versus the industry standard of 21+ days.

“That’s the beauty of the Rapid Ascent system — it distills the experience down to where you get ALL the altitude challenge ALL the incredible uniqueness of the place without spending so many days that perhaps your trip gets sidelined by external factors like work, sickness, or family obligations. Rapid Ascent enables us to start climbing…

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New Expeditions in Pakistan!

After Alpenglow Expeditions Founder Adrian Ballinger and fellow Alpenglow guides Carla Perez and Esteban “Topo” Mena completed their successful summit of K2 in the Karakoram mountain range of Pakistan in 2019, we knew we had to expand our program to explore this remote and wild region. After a year of dreaming and drawing up plans, we’re psyched to announce two new expeditions to the Karakoram: Enter Gasherbrum II  Rapid Ascent™ and our K2 & G2 Base Camp Rapid Ascent™ Trek.

 

The Karakoram

Situated in Northern Pakistan, the Karakoram boasts more 7,000m+ peaks than anywhere in the world.…

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Everest grows by nearly a meter!

The highest mountain in the world just increased the margin of its lead by an additional 2.8 feet (.86 meters). China and Nepal presented a new official figure of 8,848.86 meters (29,031.69 feet) above sea level.

Everest stands on the border between China and Nepal and is climbed by parties from both sides. Previously, China and Nepal had disagreed on how to measure the mountain- should the highpoint be measured to the highest point of rock OR should it be measured all the way through the layer of snow that sits on top of that rock? Up until the…

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COVID-19 Protocols for Expeditions in Ecuador

Following the shut down of our entire international program in March of 2020, Ecuador will be the first country outside of the U.S. that Alpenglow Expeditions will venture back to. Understandably, there are a lot of questions from both our guide team and our clients regarding the unique challenges that COVID-19 poses to an international mountain climbing trip.

In an effort to create the best circumstances for health, safety and success we’ve put together a specific COVID plan for our expeditions in Ecuador. We’ll be creating similar plans for each country that we subsequently travel to as they open.

 …

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Everest 2020 Canceled due to Fears of Coronavirus Hitting Base Camps

 

Everest 2020 Expedition Canceled

With a heavy heart, we are announcing the cancelation of our Everest 2020 expedition. Today China announced that it has shut down the Tibet side of Mt. Everest due to fears of Coronavirus hitting base camps, one of the most remote and inhospitable environments in the world.

Adrian Ballinger reports, “While I am saddened for all the hard work our members, guides, Sherpa, local staff, partners and office have put in, and that they and we won’t get to test ourselves on the highest playground in the world this year, I am…

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Choosing your Ice Axe

 

Part 2: If you grab your crampons, chances are you’ll want an ice axe too.

{Read Part 1:  How to Pick Crampons}

Ice Axes and Crampons often go hand in hand, and similarly to picking the right pair of crampons, choosing the proper ice axe will make your day in the mountains all the more successful. With ice axes, the use of the tool dictates the type of tool you need. A technical ice tool isn’t great for self arrest, and neither is a piolet for climbing steep ice. Below are some of our favorite activities,…

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