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Adrian has a plan for Everest 2022

Words by Alpenglow CEO & Founder, Adrian Ballinger

 

Confidence in April 2022

Alpenglow has confidence that Tibet will open for our Everest North Side 2022 expedition next April. We’re having good communications with our local partners in Tibet and they’re hopeful that they will begin normal tourism by the end of 2021, which should set us up well for Everest expeditions in the spring of 2022, a few months after Tibet has re-opened. They’ve been working with us to consider different potential requirements like vaccinations and COVID testing. Tibet and CTMA (Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Association)…

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3 Reasons Adrian Ballinger Thinks You Should Climb Aconcagua

 

Rapid Ascent™ distills the expedition down to all its highlights

By preacclimatizing at home before the start of the trip, our teams spend a mere 14 days attempting Aconcagua, versus the industry standard of 21+ days.

“That’s the beauty of the Rapid Ascent system — it distills the experience down to where you get ALL the altitude challenge ALL the incredible uniqueness of the place without spending so many days that perhaps your trip gets sidelined by external factors like work, sickness, or family obligations. Rapid Ascent enables us to start climbing…

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New Expeditions in Pakistan!

After Alpenglow Expeditions Founder Adrian Ballinger and fellow Alpenglow guides Carla Perez and Esteban “Topo” Mena completed their successful summit of K2 in the Karakoram mountain range of Pakistan in 2019, we knew we had to expand our program to explore this remote and wild region. After a year of dreaming and drawing up plans, we’re psyched to announce two new expeditions to the Karakoram: Enter Gasherbrum II  Rapid Ascent™ and our K2 & G2 Base Camp Rapid Ascent™ Trek.

 

The Karakoram

Situated in Northern Pakistan, the Karakoram boasts more 7,000m+ peaks than anywhere in the world.…

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Everest grows by nearly a meter!

The highest mountain in the world just increased the margin of its lead by an additional 2.8 feet (.86 meters). China and Nepal presented a new official figure of 8,848.86 meters (29,031.69 feet) above sea level.

Everest stands on the border between China and Nepal and is climbed by parties from both sides. Previously, China and Nepal had disagreed on how to measure the mountain- should the highpoint be measured to the highest point of rock OR should it be measured all the way through the layer of snow that sits on top of that rock? Up until the…

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COVID-19 Protocols for Expeditions in Ecuador

Following the shut down of our entire international program in March of 2020, Ecuador will be the first country outside of the U.S. that Alpenglow Expeditions will venture back to. Understandably, there are a lot of questions from both our guide team and our clients regarding the unique challenges that COVID-19 poses to an international mountain climbing trip.

In an effort to create the best circumstances for health, safety and success we’ve put together a specific COVID plan for our expeditions in Ecuador. We’ll be creating similar plans for each country that we subsequently travel to as they open.

 …

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Everest 2020 Canceled due to Fears of Coronavirus Hitting Base Camps

 

Everest 2020 Expedition Canceled

With a heavy heart, we are announcing the cancelation of our Everest 2020 expedition. Today China announced that it has shut down the Tibet side of Mt. Everest due to fears of Coronavirus hitting base camps, one of the most remote and inhospitable environments in the world.

Adrian Ballinger reports, “While I am saddened for all the hard work our members, guides, Sherpa, local staff, partners and office have put in, and that they and we won’t get to test ourselves on the highest playground in the world this year, I am…

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Choosing your Ice Axe

 

Part 2: If you grab your crampons, chances are you’ll want an ice axe too.

{Read Part 1:  How to Pick Crampons}

Ice Axes and Crampons often go hand in hand, and similarly to picking the right pair of crampons, choosing the proper ice axe will make your day in the mountains all the more successful. With ice axes, the use of the tool dictates the type of tool you need. A technical ice tool isn’t great for self arrest, and neither is a piolet for climbing steep ice. Below are some of our favorite activities,…

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Let the Countdown to Everest Season Begin!

 

It’s time to talk about Everest

On paper, an expedition to the north side of Everest comprises of just 35 days on the Alpenglow Expeditions climbing calendar. That said, the reality for our team is that it’s actually a year-round endeavor. Preparations begin as soon as the last tent is removed from the mountain in the early summer. It takes half a year of logistics planning before boots can even set foot on the flanks of the mountain. Plus, every month of the year we’re training and climbing with clients on peaks across the world while they…

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Aconcagua 2020 – Polish Direct Route Update

In our last post, we talked about the team of Justin and Topo on their Aconcagua Rapid Ascent™, taking on the Polish Direct Route. Here’s an update on their progress.

 

Saturday, February 1

The guys had a final good night of rest in base camp, and in the morning they finalized all packing and sent a few loads of camp gear up the mountains with porters.  The first reports of challenging weather were beginning to trickle in and Topo was seeing a forecast that included a big wind event on the horizon. The plan at this point…

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Aconcagua 2020 – Climbing the Polish Glacier Direct Route

Normally, Alpenglow Expeditions Rapid Ascent™ teams climb the “360 route” on Aconcagua. The 360 route begins in Plaza de Argentina and ascends a less traveled route up the mountain, allowing our teams to move quickly by avoiding the crowds of the more popular Plaza de Mulas side of the peak. After attaining the summit, these teams descend the opposite side of the mountain ending their climb in Plaza de Mulas.

 

Climbing the Polish Glacier Direct Route on Aconcagua

In January of 2020 though, we have a single climber in a 1:1 guide ratio led by Esteban “Topo”…

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