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Top 5 Things Alpenglow Expeditions Does Differently on Mt Everest

Approaching the summit from the northside of Everest

We’ve always done things a bit differently than most other guide services, and it all starts with Adrian Ballinger’s visionary Rapid Ascent™ approach to pre-acclimatizing for mountains across the world. Read on to see how our Mount Everest Rapid Ascent Expedition is different than other international mountain guide services.

 

1 . Rapid Ascent™ Approach

While nearly all other mountain guide services continue to approach mountains the same way as has been done for decades, Adrian Ballinger knew there was another way. His main goal was to reduce the…

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Summit Success for the Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ Team!

 

Summit: Monday, November 4

At 8am local time on Monday, November 4, guide Topo Mena called us via satellite phone from the summit of Ama Dablam to announce “CUMBRE!!” Temps were brutally cold but the team had good stable climbing conditions and outstanding clear views from the summit at 22,349’ (6,812m).

 

Pre-Summit: A tough battle up to C1 and C2.5

On Sunday our team reached Camp 1 then headed up to camp 2.5 high up on the Mushroom Ridge. Everyone climbed hard, but illness prevented some of our…

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Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ Update

After a day exploring Kathmandu, Alpenglow’s Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ team flew from KTM (Kathmandu Airport) to Namche Bazaar via helicopter. After sorting equipment that will be portered to basecamp, the team began their trek to Phortse. The 5 hr trek through the Khumbu gave the team time to become acquainted, and they settled into their evening accommodations, a local Tea House in Phortse.

Best seat in the house. The team got an incredible view of the mountains on their heli ride from KTM (Kathmandu Airport) to Namche Bazaar via helicopter.

On a traditional Ama Dablam expedition,…

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Cho Oyu Team Update

 

The Journey to Cho Oyu

After months of endurance training, weeks of logistics planning, and days of travel, Alpenglow’s Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent expedition has begun their climb. The team is lead by guides Chad Peele and Esteban Topo Mena.

The team successfully made the trek from their respective hometowns to Chengdu and then on to Lhasa, with all bags in tow. This is the first victory of the trip, and always a good omen. After 2 days of driving across the Tibetian Plateau, the team arrived in Base Camp to settle in.…

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What’s in Adrian’s Closet?

 

“Frostbite is Failure” Interview with Adrian Ballinger: A run-through of every climbing shoe and mountain boot in his arsenal.

Mountain guides may be the most shoe-obsessed people on the planet. From rock shoes to 8,000m boots, every shoe has an ultra-specific purpose. In this interview, Adrian walks us through his favorite La Sportiva footwear for each climbing discipline. Have you ever wanted to take a peek inside Adrian’s closet? This is your chance!

Tahoe Via Ferrata TX4 Approach Shoe

“There are two reasons I really like this shoe for the 

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Everest Lightning Ascent in 14 Days

The Everest Lightning Ascent: Two Weeks to the Top and Back with Alpenglow Expeditions – words by Roxanne Vogel

Moving up from base camp on the north side of Mt Everest

Testing Rapid Ascent

When I nervously called Adrian Ballinger in the autumn of 2017, I had no idea I’d eventually be working with his company, Alpenglow Expeditions, on the first ever 14-day summit of Mount Everest. Long before the whirlwind trip that occurred in May of this year, I had reached out to him about a different rapid ascent, a climb of the world’s highest volcano—

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What’s Great About the “End of Summer” in Tahoe?

It’s that peculiar time in Tahoe past Labor Day when everyone seems to be worried about the “end of summer.” There’s a frenzy to squeeze in one more beach day at Donner Lake or one more mountain bike ride on the Flume Trail. But here at Alpenglow, we’re kind of wondering what everyone is getting so worked up about. After all, autumn is tied with spring and summer as our second favorite season (of course, winter is our first love!) September and October are prime for a good time: the Tahoe crowds dwindle, temps are pleasant, and…

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Interview: Adrian Ballinger Talks Rapid Ascent

As soon as Adrian returned from his successful #K2no02 mission, we caught up with him for an interview. We asked him all about pre-acclimatizing with Hypoxico and how the Rapid Ascent program plays into his climbing career.

 

Q: How does pre-acclimatization with Hypoxico work?

Adrian: “The Hypoxico system allows us to pre-acclimatize at home which is an essential part of our Rapid Ascent and Lightning Ascent systems for climbing big mountains faster than we used to be able to.

Essentially you’re in a tent and the system takes oxygen out of the air and replaces…

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Cho Oyu 2019

Alpenglow’s next Himalayan expedition will take us to the 6th highest peak in the world, Cho Oyu. We’ve put together a full team this upcoming season, all of them ready to take on the 26,906’/8188m mountain in our Rapid Ascent style. The 2019 team will be led by Topo Mena, with Chad Peele as the second guide. Topo is currently on K2 with Adrian and Carla in a support role. Chad spends his summers in Colorado leading clients in the San Juan mountains.

Sun kisses Cho Oyu

Starting July 28, the team will begin pre-acclimatizing with…

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#RoadtoEverest Wrap Up

In case you missed our #RoadtoEverest series last week, here’s the full rundown:

Everest summit on May 22, 2019 by Lightning Ascent team Roxanne, guide Lydia Bradey, Dorji Sherpa, and Mingma Sherpa.

1. While it feels like the Alpenglow Expeditions’ Everest 2019 teams wrapped up just last week,  Alpenglow is already thinking about Everest 2020. At Alpenglow, we spend nearly the entire year building our Mt. Everest team for the spring season. Many of our discussions with climbers will focus around whether they are “ready” for Mt. Everest. These conversations are really important.

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