fbpx

Blog


Everest Guiding and International Standards

Over the past 2 months, and really over the past 2 years, I have read numerous blogs about how to “fix” Everest. I’ve even written a couple of my own. I just read a great piece (unpublished) by accomplished mountaineer Brad Johnson (author of Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca – http://peaksandplaces.com/purchase_book.htm), who just summited Everest for the first time. He accurately wrote that this year, with perfect weather, many teams got away with what could be fatal mistakes up high. These mistakes were mostly caused by oversized teams and inexperienced guides, sherpa, and clients. Brad’s email reminded…

Keep Reading...


In BC, Packing up

Adrian and Sergey have been recovering in BC for a day now, while our Sherpa team have cleaned all camps down to C2 and will finish up at C1 today. They’ll be heading through the Icefall and in BC ready for a celebratory party in the Zebra Den tonight! 

Everyone is thrilled with their magnificent summit day and the expedition in general. Their decision to skip Lhotse was solidified by the fact that the couloir was more than 50% rock and not skiable this season. They did, however, manage to ski from C2 on their descent, heavy packs and all,…

Keep Reading...

Summit Push: Day 4…Holding

Summit Push….Day 4. Holding! There was no summit attempt last night. At 2am, I spoke to Adrian on the radio….the winds at the South Col were in excess of 80km/h and on the summit ridge they were well over 100km/h. Adrian decided to wait until 4am to see if there was any improvement, but at 0445 the winds were the same or stronger and almost all of the teams that had left earlier in the night had been forced to turn around before the summit because of the extreme conditions. Our team stayed put in their tents at the South…

Keep Reading...

Arrived at the Sol Col, summit tomorrow!

Just off a quick call from a VERY relaxed sounding Adrian, checking in from the South Col. He and Sergey have settled in and plan to depart for the summit of Everest around 2am. The winds are a bit higher than what’s ideal, but manageable, and they are timing their climb to be on the summit before it picks up later in the morning. There are only a few other teams planning on the same summit day, so Adrian and Sergey happily decided to negotiate slightly higher wind speeds in order to be less crowded on the climb and summit. …

Keep Reading...



Rope Fixing Team Summits Mt. Everest! 11:30 AM, May 10, 2013

We just got news from our phenom rope fixing sherpa team that they have reached the summit of Mt. Everest. It is a good day, with sun and moderate winds. This means the team has not only been able to summit and string ropes, but has also been improving anchors, and looking at ways to lessen traffic jams on the difficult sections of the route. It’s a great day! 

 

I remember rope-fixing to the summit with the rope-fixing Sherpa in 2010 and 2011, and it is incredible fun, as well as work. To be on the…

Keep Reading...

Where is Climbing Everest Headed?

As the Alpenglow team sits in Base Camp and waits for the jetstream to shift to allow for Everest and Lhotse summit attempts (and skiing!), we have been having lots of discussions with friends and peers about the future of climbing Mount Everest. Alpenglow is planning some significant changes to our Everest expeditions to maximize Sherpa and climber safety and success. Stay tuned for details on our 2014 Everest season. In the meantime, here is a short piece from Monica about the future of climbing on Everest, originally written for an upcoming book by Simone Moro.

I am writing this…

Keep Reading...