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Monica’s First Hand Account of the Icefall and Camp 2!

Well hello there from EBC! The Alpenglow team rocked back “home” this morning after their trip to Camps 2 and 3. Well, perhaps let me be more honest…Sergey and Adrian rocked back into Base Camp….I think my entrance could more appropriately be described as stumbling back, staggering back or rolling back: but I most definitely didn’t ROCK back! And that is despite the fact that I went no farther than Camp 2, and was there only for 3 nights. These boys are STRONG…and the Sherpa, are quite simply super human. So, given that Adrian has asked me to write the blog, I shall take…

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Lhotse Face, Helis, and Progress

It’s 6:30 pm here in Camp 2, at 21,500 feet. Temperatures have been a bit cold for this time of season. That makes mornings and evenings a bit hard to leave the comforts of either a sleeping bag or our heated C2 hangout dome. And it means this will be a short blog post before we turn the heat and wifi off!

More importantly the cold temps are keeping icefall and Lhotse Face anchors and fixed ropes in excellent condition. Sherpa from many different teams keep remarking on the route’s great, and fast, condition. All the way from Base Camp…

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Everest, the Best and Worst

Everest, in all its intensity and boredom, to me often feels like a stimulant-enhanced version of “normal” life at home. This heightened intensity of emotional and physical existence is not necessarily a good thing, but I am sure this is why many of us return year after year. It is an addictive way to exist.

The last 24 hours here on Everest has been an example of this intensity, in its best and worst forms. It all began yesterday at 2:30 am. I woke to a perfect night for climbing – cold, clear weather, a big enough moon…

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Round 1 of Acclimatization: Done and Dusted

Sergey and Adrian arrived back in Island Peak base camp at about 8am on the morning of the 23rd of April after descending from their summit camp where they spent two nights. The three of us then walked down to Dingboche and lounged around at the lodge for an afternoon relaxing and resting before the big day that took us to Everest Base Camp. For me the rest was less deserved than for the boys as I decided not to climb Island Peak a second time. I have to admit to having succumbed to a moment of weakness…as we climbed…

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Kathmandu: A Home Away From Home

After having led more than 30 expeditions and treks in Nepal over the past 15 years, I think I can finally claim Nepal as my second home. It’s not all the equipment I store here that makes it a home (although I do have 30 or so duffle bags and blue barrels of gear stashed in my friend’s houses here in Kathmandu and in the Khumbu). Nor is it my familiarity with the streets, markets, and alleyways that make up the maze of a city that is Kathmandu. Nepal is a home to me because of the friends and family…

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Full Interview with Alan Arnette

Alpenglow’s owner and lead guide, Adrian Ballinger, recently did an interview with Alan Arnette discussing Alpenglow’s spring plans on Everest and Lhotse, and our innovative rapid-ascent climbs. Here is the full interview:

Did you change your client experience requirements based on your 45 day program?

No. We hold to the same high standards (perhaps the highest in the industry) for both our traditional and express climbs. This includes a previous 8,000 meter peak expedition as well as at least 5 peaks over 19,000 feet, 30 days in crampons, a minimum of 3 days of steep ice climbing, 3 days…

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Everest and Lhotse 2014 – Preparation

Yesterday I wrote that we were 10 days away from leaving the USA for our Everest and Lhotse Expeditions. I received a few questions and comments about this being later than many other teams head to the Himalaya in the spring. Much of the annual pilgrimage of guides, sherpa, media and hopeful first-time summitters that each year trek up the Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp, have already arrived in Kathmandu. Teams have taken care of permitting at the Ministry of Tourism, packed their final loads for transport by plane, yak and porter, and celebrated the beginning of the season…

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Happy New Year!

Thanks to all of Alpenglow’s friends and family who helped us obtain great success on summits across the globe in 2012!

We have an exciting lineup of endeavors planned for 2013, do you? From Kilimanjaro to Mount Everest and Lhotse, we are offering trips that are sure to fit in with your New Year’s climbing resolutions!

Visit our expeditions page to find one that’s right for you.…

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