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With a heavy heart, we are announcing the cancelation of our Everest 2020 expedition. Today China announced that it has shut down the Tibet side of Mt. Everest due to fears of Coronavirus hitting base camps, one of the most remote and inhospitable environments in the world.

Adrian Ballinger reports, “While I am saddened for all the hard work our members, guides, Sherpa, local staff, partners and office have put in, and that they and we won’t get to test ourselves on the highest playground in the world this year, I am…

{Read Part 1:  How to Pick Crampons}

Ice Axes and Crampons often go hand in hand, and similarly to picking the right pair of crampons, choosing the proper ice axe will make your day in the mountains all the more successful. With ice axes, the use of the tool dictates the type of tool you need. A technical ice tool isn’t great for self arrest, and neither is a piolet for climbing steep ice. Below are some of our favorite activities,…

Intermediate peaks are a critical component on the Road to Everest. Once a climber has completed the preceding components of taking intro courses and climbing intro peaks, they are ready to consider mountains in the 6000m plus range with increased technical difficulty. The increased difficulty starts with longer approaches, more complex routes, and increased altitude challenges. Intermediate peaks will test climbers both in camp craft and glacier travel, but also in the ability for their body to safely acclimatize.

Walking along a ridge on Huayna Potosi

As a general rule…

Sydney Duncan spends her winters in Tahoe as a ski guide and AIARE Avalanche Course instructor. In summer, she migrates north, alpine guiding in the Cascades. This September, she’s gearing up to co-guide a backcountry ski trip to Chile, an adventurous backcountry ski destination that is off the beaten path. Our ski expedition to the volcanic peaks of southern Chile is a great way for intermediate/advanced backcountry skiers to expand on the backcountry skills and experiences they’ve built in their home mountains. In the following interview, Syd gives us the lowdown on the whole program.

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On paper, an expedition to the north side of Everest comprises of just 35 days on the Alpenglow Expeditions climbing calendar. That said, the reality for our team is that it’s actually a year-round endeavor. Preparations begin as soon as the last tent is removed from the mountain in the early summer. It takes half a year of logistics planning before boots can even set foot on the flanks of the mountain. Plus, every month of the year we’re training and climbing with clients on peaks across the world while they…

While the use for crampons is all the same, not all crampons are created equally.

Some are made from aluminum, others from steel. Some have 8 points, others 14. In general, crampon selection can be best determined based on the terrain that you’re climbing. What we choose for walking on snow while ski mountaineering will be much different than when we head out to climb vertical waterfall ice. Below are some of our favorite activities, and the crampons we choose for each. Most crampons come with different attachment styles, which are dictated by the boots they’ll adhere…

In our last post, we talked about the team of Justin and Topo on their Aconcagua Rapid Ascent™, taking on the Polish Direct Route. Here’s an update on their progress.

The guys had a final good night of rest in base camp, and in the morning they finalized all packing and sent a few loads of camp gear up the mountains with porters.  The first reports of challenging weather were beginning to trickle in and Topo was seeing a forecast that included a big wind event on the horizon. The plan at this point…

Normally, Alpenglow Expeditions Rapid Ascent™ teams climb the “360 route” on Aconcagua. The 360 route begins in Plaza de Argentina and ascends a less traveled route up the mountain, allowing our teams to move quickly by avoiding the crowds of the more popular Plaza de Mulas side of the peak. After attaining the summit, these teams descend the opposite side of the mountain ending their climb in Plaza de Mulas.

In January of 2020 though, we have a single climber in a 1:1 guide ratio led by Esteban “Topo”…

Whether it’s your first year in the skin track or your fifth, now is the time to plan to get backcountry educated! We get a lot of questions from backcountry travelers wondering what the next step is, so we created this basic road map. From whichever stage you are starting from, use this reference to figure out how to progress your personal backcountry education.

Be able to ski black diamond runs and…

Topo Mena led a team of Rapid Ascent™ climbers on Ojos del Salado this season. Below is a full expedition recap.

Most of the team arrived on time and in good spirits on Friday, January 17. They spent the day having a hearty lunch in downtown before taking a cable car to the top of Cerro San Cristobal for some sightseeing. The final client arrived that evening and with that, the team was complete and ready to head to the mountains.
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Words by Tim Mincey

So you just finished an AIARE 1 course. Congrats! Nice work taking a huge step in your avalanche education, and making yourself a much more valuable touring partner and member of the backcountry community. Maybe you’re feeling a little bit intimidated by the awesome power of avalanches, but hopefully, you’re mostly feeling empowered to step into the backcountry with the knowledge and tools to identify avalanche terrain and make good decisions with your partners, however conservative those decisions might be.

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You’ve gotten a taste of high altitude in Ecuador, Peru or Bolivia – and now you’re probably thinking about your next step in the high peaks of the world. Whether you’re on The Road to Everest or just looking to test yourself at higher altitudes, climbing Aconcagua is the perfect next step after you’ve conquered peaks in the 5000m – 6000m range.

A Rapid Ascent™ team leaving base camp on Aconcagua

You have been to 6000 meters, and you felt great. Now you’re ready to test yourself at…