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Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ Update

After a day exploring Kathmandu, Alpenglow’s Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent™ team flew from KTM (Kathmandu Airport) to Namche Bazaar via helicopter. After sorting equipment that will be portered to basecamp, the team began their trek to Phortse. The 5 hr trek through the Khumbu gave the team time to become acquainted, and they settled into their evening accommodations, a local Tea House in Phortse.

Best seat in the house. The team got an incredible view of the mountains on their heli ride from KTM (Kathmandu Airport) to Namche Bazaar via helicopter.

On a traditional Ama Dablam expedition,…

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Top 3 Reasons Mexico is a Great Climbing Destination

Reason numero uno

Mexico is close to the United States. When you first learn to climb, or first learn how to do any sport for that matter, you want to see if you like it. If you’re looking into a trip with Alpenglow, it’s probably not your first time on belay. However, it might be your first-time big-mountain climbing, which means you’re likely being introduced to high altitude. Mexico is conveniently close to the U.S., which allows you to take less time off of work and makes for shorter travel times. If you fall in love…

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New Expedition – Lhakpa Ri Rapid Ascent™

Alpenglow Expeditions is excited to offer a brand new Rapid Ascent expedition to Lhakpa Ri in Tibet. Standing across from the North Face of Mt Everest, Lhakpa Ri is an incredible 7000m peak with arguably the best view of Everest. If climbing Everest is on your list but you need more experience, you can’t beat Lhakpa Ri in terms of location. If you are not interested in climbing Everest but want a front row seat to take in the mountain, this is your opportunity.

 

How does the Rapid Ascent™ part work?

With Rapid Ascent™, the entire expedition begins…

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Cho Oyu Team Update

 

The Journey to Cho Oyu

After months of endurance training, weeks of logistics planning, and days of travel, Alpenglow’s Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent expedition has begun their climb. The team is lead by guides Chad Peele and Esteban Topo Mena.

The team successfully made the trek from their respective hometowns to Chengdu and then on to Lhasa, with all bags in tow. This is the first victory of the trip, and always a good omen. After 2 days of driving across the Tibetian Plateau, the team arrived in Base Camp to settle in.…

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What’s in Adrian’s Closet?

 

“Frostbite is Failure” Interview with Adrian Ballinger: A run-through of every climbing shoe and mountain boot in his arsenal.

Mountain guides may be the most shoe-obsessed people on the planet. From rock shoes to 8,000m boots, every shoe has an ultra-specific purpose. In this interview, Adrian walks us through his favorite La Sportiva footwear for each climbing discipline. Have you ever wanted to take a peek inside Adrian’s closet? This is your chance!

Tahoe Via Ferrata TX4 Approach Shoe

“There are two reasons I really like this shoe for the 

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Everest Lightning Ascent in 14 Days

The Everest Lightning Ascent: Two Weeks to the Top and Back with Alpenglow Expeditions – words by Roxanne Vogel

Moving up from base camp on the north side of Mt Everest

Testing Rapid Ascent

When I nervously called Adrian Ballinger in the autumn of 2017, I had no idea I’d eventually be working with his company, Alpenglow Expeditions, on the first ever 14-day summit of Mount Everest. Long before the whirlwind trip that occurred in May of this year, I had reached out to him about a different rapid ascent, a climb of the world’s highest volcano—

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What’s Great About the “End of Summer” in Tahoe?

It’s that peculiar time in Tahoe past Labor Day when everyone seems to be worried about the “end of summer.” There’s a frenzy to squeeze in one more beach day at Donner Lake or one more mountain bike ride on the Flume Trail. But here at Alpenglow, we’re kind of wondering what everyone is getting so worked up about. After all, autumn is tied with spring and summer as our second favorite season (of course, winter is our first love!) September and October are prime for a good time: the Tahoe crowds dwindle, temps are pleasant, and…

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How do Tahoe Via Ferrata Guides Manage Inherent Risk?

Tahoe Via Ferrata Guide Will Sperry

“Is this safe?”

As guides, we are often asked the question, “Is this safe?” And, if we were to give you the short answer, it would be “NOPE!” because pretty much everything fun is at least a little dangerous.

Entering into any mountainous environment involves inherent risk. Acknowledging that fact, here’s what we do at the Tahoe Via Ferrata to manage danger as effectively as possible. In the following interview with guide Will Sperry, we list out some of the hazards that you may

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We are Proud to be an Accredited American Mountain Guides Business

Alpenglow Expeditions is an accredited American Mountain Guides business. In the following interview, Alpenglow’s Lead Guide and Operations Director Logan Talbott breaks down what that means and why it’s important.

 

Logan, to start us off, can you give us an overview of what the AMGA is and what the organization does?

“The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) is a 501(c)(3) educational non‐profit that is dedicated to supporting the American mountain guiding and climbing instructor community. The AMGA is the only training and certification organization in the United States for all disciplines of mountain guiding (rock climbing, alpine climbing and…

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Interview: Adrian Ballinger Talks Rapid Ascent

As soon as Adrian returned from his successful #K2no02 mission, we caught up with him for an interview. We asked him all about pre-acclimatizing with Hypoxico and how the Rapid Ascent program plays into his climbing career.

 

Q: How does pre-acclimatization with Hypoxico work?

Adrian: “The Hypoxico system allows us to pre-acclimatize at home which is an essential part of our Rapid Ascent and Lightning Ascent systems for climbing big mountains faster than we used to be able to.

Essentially you’re in a tent and the system takes oxygen out of the air and replaces…

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Our Favorite Alpine Climbs in the High Sierra

The High Sierra, also called the “East Side,” is a gem of California. A jagged mountainous wonderland, it’s a favorite playground for alpinists, rock climbers, backcountry skiers, and hot spring enthusiasts.

Right now, it’s prime season for alpine climbing in the High Sierra! Alpenglow guide Tim Mincey has spent A TON of time in the region this spring and summer. Between guiding, exploring, and playing in these mountains, Tim has come to know the region intimately. We caught up with him for a quick interview and asked him what his favorite alpine climbs of the High Sierra are.…

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Kilimanjaro Summit Success

Successful Summit for Kilimanjaro Team

Our Kilimanjaro team had a successful summit of Kilimanjaro on Saturday, July 13. But before we get to summit day, let’s pick up where we left off.

 

Kibo Hut – 15,500’/4724m

Hiking towards Kibo Hut on Kilimanjaro

Leaving Mawenzi Tarn camp at 13,000’/3962m the team walked across the saddle towards the alpine desert eco zone. Guide Will Sperry reported that walking across the saddle and moving from one eco zone to another was a breathtaking moment for the team. At the Kibo Hut, the team felt good after a few folks recovered…

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