Blog

The Route is in on Manaslu

All my apologies for the visual nightmare that is this blog…I am trying to figure out the problem! As long as it’s legible, however, I’ll keep you updated. Also, unfortunately, the internet and “good” satellite phone are down on Manaslu, hence the lack of photos. I’ll post some as soon as I receive them.
The team has spent 2 nights at 6300 meters with a day trip all the way up to 6900 meters! The icefall has changed dramatically since last year, so Adrian and Hiro had a wonderful time finding a new route through and fixing lines. With everyone…

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Manaslu Summit But Monday!

The team is heading toward the summit of Manaslu! The weather has been acting completely in their favor with clear and windless skies. On Friday, Adrian’s team (including four members) left Camp II (21,000′) for Camp III (23,000′), where they were to stay for a single night before pushing up to Camp IV (24,500′) on Sunday. Their weather window appears to be remaining open for a few more days and they plan on spending one night at Camp IV, then making their summit bid on Monday the 28th. They will also descend all the way back down to Camp II…

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Successful Summit and Descent

Adrian, Hiro, Soren, Julian, Jan, Desiree, and five Sherpas all attained the summit of Manaslu, the eighth tallest peak in the world today. The Swiss team followed suit impressively without oxygen. Dorji led the highly technical stretch to the true summit, which no one had been to in years. After this success, everyone descended an arduous 12,000 feet to Base Camp, the extraordinary Sherpas even cleaning up Camps IV and III on the way. While thrilled with their accomplishment, no one is having a full celebration yet as the Sherpas still need to clean Camps II and I, meaning one…

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Back in Kathmandu Tomorrow!

The team arrived safely in Samagaon on the 2nd and have been organizing loads and packing for next year. They are scheduled to take a helicopter to Kathmandu on the morning of the 3rd, where they will resume full contact with those of us waiting to hear all the details of their adventure!

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The Approach to Ama Dablam

Our team flew into Lukkla yesterday in great weather. We hiked to Monjo and then today onto Namche Bazaar, the famous administrative capital of the Khumbu region of Nepal. Everyone is healthy and enjoying the walk in. Tomorrow we should see Ama Dablam for the first time. We will be trekking for 5 more days before reaching Base Camp and getting to work on the hill. The sherpa grapevine says that no one has been above Camp II on Ama yet, so we are getting ready to fix up high as needed. Should be fun!

-Adrian B.

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Acclimatization Day

The team has had spectacular weather thus far en route to Ama Dablam. Currently, there are high winds above 6000 meters, however, it is calm and clear down low, where the team went on an acclimatization climb today up to 18,500′ and they were able to glimpse views of Ama and many of the other high peaks around the Khumbu Valley. The sherpas arrived at BC two days ago and they report that the mountain looks to be in good condition although still it seems no one has made it past Camp II. The rest of the team will arrive…

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To Yak Camp!

After the team had their puja ceremony this morning, they got word of the season’s first Ama summiters. A Brit and two sherpas made it from Mushroom Ridge to the summit yesterday, which means that the Alpenglow team’s workload has been lessened as the lines that needed to be fixed are now in place. Tomorrow, the team will climb up to Yak Camp (yaks can make it there too!) at 5400 meters as an acclimatization day. Stay tuned…

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Halloween at 18,500′

The team enjoyed a clear and cold rest day today and will begin three days of acclimatization tomorrow. They will spend the nights of the 30th and 31st at Camp I (5800 meters), climbing as high as Camp II (6100 meters) before turning around to rest at BC on the 1st. This acclimatization climb will allow the team to check out the technical rock portion of Ama for the first time.

-Emily

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Clear Days Ahead

Although Adrian and two sherpas were pulled away from the team to perform a rescue of an Austrian climber, Shinji and the team completed the three day acclimatization plan with great success. The rescue team charged 7000′ up the empty mountain (from BC to just below the summit) in about five and a half hours, and spent the next two days and nights (eventually joined by 6 more sherpas) getting the victim down to a safe evacuation site. Meanwhile, the rest of the team proved their prowess over the technical sections of the climb and got a feel for what…

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Summits and Rescues

Our 14th season in Peru and on Alpamayo has been both a lot of fun and very challenging. While one of our team members, Steve, along with lead guide Jaime Avila, are still in the Cordillera Blanca attempting a technical route on Peru’s tallest peak, Huascaran, I have the good fortune to take a mini-vacation. My “office” this week is in the far north of Peru on the Ecuadorian border, a little beach town called Pocitas. Pocitas is famous for great waves, perfect wind for kiteboarding, and the freshest ceviche and sushi you can possibly imagine. It’s my opinion that…

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