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Artesonraju

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Artesonraju Expedition

Advanced 14 Days Peru
Climb Artesonraju with certified mountain guides who have climbed extensively in South America and know the Peruvian Andes intimately. Artesonraju is ideal for experienced technical climbers who excel at high altitude.
Jul 16, 2023 – Jul 29, 2023
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A ridge to the summit of Artesonraju
A climber roped in, climbing up Artesonraju on a guided expedition

Climb Artesonraju, the “Paramount Pictures” mountain.

Artesonraju (19,767’/6,025m) is considered one of the jewels of the Cordillera Blanca. The spectacular peak is often recognized as the Paramount Pictures icon and provides an incredible climbing experience in the Cordillera Blanca. Climbing Artesonraju demands an extremely long summit day, where efficiency and fitness are essential.

FITNESS

Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca is a large physical undertaking, and climbers who are joining our teams should have at least a general understanding of what it takes to train for an expedition like this. For a personalized training schedule, please reach out to our in-house trainer: lynette@alpenglowexpeditions.com.

TECHNICAL

Climbers should have experience multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), be comfortable following Grade IV ice climbs, and 5.9 rock climbs.

ALTITUDE

It is required that climbers have prior experience at altitudes up to 14,000′, and it is strongly recommended that climbers have prior experience at altitudes over 15,000′.
A mountaineer climbing up a snowy ridge during an Artesonraju Expedition

Artesonraju Itinerary

Mountaineers alpine climbing up a glaciated slope on a guided Artesonraju Expedition
Day 1
Arrival

Arrive in Lima between 6pm and midnight.

Day 2
Drive to Huaraz

Drive to Huaraz (8 hours), where we base out of Olaza’s Guest House, a small but beautiful hotel (10,000’/3,050m).

Day 3
Acclimatize and Organize

Acclimatize and organize in Huaraz. We’ll go on a short hike outside of Huaraz as we start our acclimatization.

Day 4
Drive to the End of the Road

We’ll drive to a refugio at the end of the Llaca Valley road (14,000’/4,267m). We prepare our gear for the climb and scope the complicated route through the moraine.

Day 5
Acclimatization Climb

Today, we climb Vallunaraju (18,655 feet/ 5,686 meters) and return to Huaraz. Vallunaraju provides us with a perfect acclimatization climb on moderate terrain, allowing us to review and practice our skills. We enjoy spectacular views all day long.

Day 6
Move to Llama Corral

Next, we drive to our trailhead in the village of Cashapampa (9,000’/2,743m). This 3-hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities as we weave between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. After organizing our burros, we hike with daypacks to Llama Corral (11,500’/3,505 meters), where we camp for the night.

Day 7
Move up to Basecamp

Today, we begin up the Santa Cruz Valley route on a mellow trail and then turn off to Artesonraju basecamp (13,944’/4,250m).

Day 8
Rest and Skills Day

Today we rest and work on our skills in preparation for the technical climbing on Artesonraju.

Day 9
Move to Moraine Camp

After another roughly 5 hours of hiking, we arrive at Moraine Camp (16,404/’/5,000m).

Day 10
Summit Day

Two-tool climbing takes us to the summit of this incredible peak at 19,767’/6,025m). We will need to move efficiently to successfully summit and descend by rappelling off this huge alpine route. We spend the night at Moraine Camp.

Day 11
Weather Window

Extra summit day for weather or rest.

 

Day 12
Descent to Basecamp

Descend to basecamp and enjoy our last sunset in the Cordillera Blanca.

Day 13
Return to Huaraz

Walk out to Cashapampa and return to Huaraz for a night of celebration with the team.

Day 14
Head Home

We depart from Huaraz back to Lima to catch our flights (after 11pm). Say goodbye to your team and head home!

Our Artesonraju Guides

Meet some of the guides you might be climbing Artesonraju with.

Artesonraju Questions

Below are some answers to commonly asked questions about Artesonraju
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