Lhakpa Ri Expedition

30.5723° N, 104.0665° E

Climb Lhakpa Ri in 16 days with Alpenglow Expeditions Rapid Ascent™. This is a fantastic opportunity to test your skills at 7000m while gaining a deep insight into the inner workings of a Mt Everest expedition.

Lhakpa Ri Rapid Ascent™ Expedition

Intermediate 17 Days Tibet

Climb Lhakpa Ri in 16 days with Alpenglow Expeditions’ unique Rapid Ascent™ pre-acclimatization. Our Lhakpa Ri expedition is a fantastic opportunity to test your skills at 7,000m while gaining a deep insight into the inner workings of a Mt Everest expedition.

Apr 28, 2024 – May 14, 2024

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Lhakpa Ri Expedition Overview

Standing across from the North Face of Mt Everest, Lhakpa Ri is an incredible 7,000m peak with arguably the best view of Everest.

If climbing Everest is on your list but you need more experience, you can’t beat Lhakpa Ri in terms of location. If you are not interested in climbing Everest but want a front-row seat to take in Everest, this is your opportunity.

Climbing Lhakpa Ri

With Rapid Ascent™, the entire expedition begins at home as you pre-acclimatize for 4 weeks in conjunction with your other team members using Hypoxico altitude tents. Your goal during this phase is to get your body adapted to altitudes up to 16,500’. You’ll be sending us daily stats on your progress and our expedition doctor checks these on a weekly basis to ensure that everything is going well.

Following the 4 weeks of pre-acclimatizing you’ll fly to Lhasa, Tibet, where you will meet your guide and fellow climbing team. After a day of visiting Lhasa and its cultural sites, you’ll be on your way to Everest Base Camp. Driving through the Tibetan plateau is a truly unique experience.

After a few days of acclimatizing in base camp, you’ll begin moving with your team towards advance base camp. This is the highest camp you’ll sleep at and will give you an insider’s view to how an Everest climbing team operates before making their summit push.

Leaving from advanced base camp on Everest, you’ll trek across the East Rongbuk glacier on summit day. Climbing Lhakpa Ri is moderate, with gentle slopes protecting the approach before gaining the north ridge and finally topping out on the summit. Lhakpa Ri summit day will be about 6-8 hours to the top, with a round trip time of about 12 hours. Not bad for a 7000m peak in the Himalaya. This is a perfect climb for those who have prior glacier travel experience and have been to altitudes of 18,000’ or higher.

The Alpenglow Difference

Experienced Guides on Lhakpa Ri

Our Lhakpa Ri climb is guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s AMGA/IFMGA certified lead guides. This certification is the highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. We combine our guides’ experience with our top tier logistics operator to create an amazing experience in the mountains. Our small team size and low ratio of climbers to guides (4:1) ensures that you stay healthy and strong, and are able to enjoy each component of your experience.

Rapid Ascent™

Alpenglow’s combination of pre-acclimatization at home with the best guiding and in-country logistics has revolutionized Himalayan expeditions. The same system has reduced expedition length on peaks like the Seven Summits by 30-50%. On this Himalayan expedition, we utilize the same pre-acclimatization, quality of logistics, and guiding team. We work with you not only on the mountain, but also throughout your pre-acclimatization and preparation. Our goal is for each climber to be healthy, strong, and prepared for their summit climb of Lhakpa Ri.

Experienced Sherpa on Lhakpa Ri

We combine our western guides’ and Sherpa experience with the local expertise of one of Nepal’s best logistics operators, and the services of our good friend and local sirdar/guide, Dorji Sonam Sherpa. Dorji hails from the beautiful town of Phortse, and along with 11 ascents of Ama Dablam, he has summited Everest 19 times. His management of our local staff, knowledge of the Khumbu, and friendly personality will be essential in ensuring that you stay healthy, strong, and able to enjoy each component of this experience. Each of our Sherpa Team members are experienced, professionally trained, and here to help make the expedition a success.

Lhakpa Ri Expedition doctor on call

Dr. Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. She is in daily communication with our teams during the entirety of the expedition and is available for client consultation at any time.

High-quality food on Lhakpa Ri

Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a Western-trained cook staff; Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.

Preparation

FITNESS

Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.

TECHNICAL

Must be able to climb moderate rock, ice, and snow terrain, often with an alpine pack on your back. You should be comfortable with camp craft in high-altitude camps, and able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude.

ALTITUDE

Alpenglow requires that climbers have prior experience at altitudes of 18,000’/5500 meters. We offer many great options for gaining this experience, including opportunities in Ecuador, Peru, Kilimanjaro, and Elbrus in Russia.

Three hikers passing by penitentes on the Everest Base Camp Trek

Itinerary & Map

Lhakpa Ri Expedition Itinerary

Day 1: Fly to Chengdu, China
Team members will fly into Chengdu.
Day 2: Fly to Lhasa (12,000 feet/3,650 meters)
These flights are usually in the morning, getting climbers to Lhasa mid-day. From the airport it is an hour drive into Lhasa, where we have a bit of time to walk around the old city, and enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner. Alpenglow will arrange this flight.
Day 3: Visit the Potala Palace and Jokhang Monastery, drive to Shigatse (12,500 feet/3800 meters)
The Potala Palace, former home of the Dalai Lama is one of Tibet’s most important cultural sites, and imperative to beginning to understand this unique place. After a morning exploring with our local guide, we drive a few hours along the now paved road to Everest, stopping for the night in Shigatse, and our simple but clean hotel.
Day 4: Drive Shigatse to Shegar (14,206 feet/4,330 meters)
We continue along the Tibetan Plateau to Shegar where we spend one more night before heading all the way to base camp.
Day 5: Drive Shegar to Everest Base Camp (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)
We continue along the Tibetan Plateau until we begin to see views of Everest. From there we leave the main road and follow the valley to the Rongbuk Monastery. After exploring the monastery and lunch, we continue driving into our base camp, where we settle in.
Day 6: Rest in Everest Base Camp
Our camp offers excellent food, comfortable tents, and important amenities (heated dining tents, electricity, etc.). We allow our bodies to continue their acclimatization, and spend the day organizing equipment and logistics.
Day 7: Rest in Everest Base Camp
Today we do an acclimatization hike above camp, returning in time for lunch.
Day 8: Acclimatization at Everest Base Camp
Final day in base camp. We spend this day resting up and making final preparations for our move to ABC.
Day 9: Everest Base Camp to Interim Camp (19,000 feet/5,800 meters)
We split the move to Advanced Base Camp in two, today moving 6 miles to Interim Camp. While this camp is simple, we still ensure comfortable sleeping, dining, and excellent food. The location is incredible, surrounded by penitentes (ice towers).
Day 10: Interim Camp to Advanced Base Camp (21,300 feet/6,400 meters)
Six miles of hiking along the moraine and glacier bring us to Advanced Base Camp, our home on the side of the East Rongbuk Glacier.
Day 11 & 12: Acclimatize in ABC
Our bodies need time to acclimatize to over 21,000 feet. We utilize the days re-visiting required fixed rope and climbing skills, taking short acclimatization hikes, and eating and resting in our impressive camp.
Day 13: Summit Day on Lhakpa Ri (23,114 feet/7,045 meters)
A 6-8 hour climb takes us from the edge of the East Rongbuk Glacier up progressively steepening snow slopes. On the way we’re greeted with astounding views of the north face of Everest. Round trip we should be in the 12 hour time range and back to ABC for celebratory dinner
Day 14: Rest in ABC / Weather Day
Today we can relax and rest in ABC, taking in the sights of the North Col. We can also use this day as a weather day if needed.
Day 15: Descend to Base Camp (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)
Descend to Base Camp (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)
We say goodbye to our mountain staff and hike the 12 miles back to Everest BC.
Day 16: Drive Base Camp to Shigatse (6hrs) or Lhasa (10hrs)
We load our personal gear and selves into jeeps for the ride to the town of Shigatse or if we’re feeling up for it we can go all the way to Lhasa. A long day of travel takes us across the Tibetan Plateau.
Day 17: Depart for Home
Flights preferably after 6pm

Alpenglow’s Himalaya Guides

Our Lhakpa Ri Guides

Get to know some of the guides who you might be climbing Lhakpa Ri with.

FAQs

Lhakpa Ri Expedition Questions

Below are some answers to commonly asked questions about climbing Lhakpa Ri

: Covid vaccinations are not required, but highly recommended.
: Yes. Please reach out to our team with the details of your dietary restrictions and we’ll set you up for success.
: We require Rescue Insurance on all of our international expeditions. Rescue insurance will help cover costs in the event that you need to be rescued off the mountain (Ex: Helicopter/medical evacuation). Travel Insurance (which we strongly recommend) can cover issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance, like illness. We do recommend Global Rescue who does offer a Comprehensive Travel Protection option to your required Rescue (Evacuation) Insurance.
: Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. While Dr. Piris does not travel with our team on all expeditions, she is in 24 communication with our expedition leaders. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.
: THE COST OF YOUR TRIP INCLUDES YOUR LAND COSTS (EXCLUDING IN-TOWN MEALS). THIS INCLUDES:
All lodging according to itinerary, including double occupancy lodging while in town and group lodging in mountain huts.
Breakfasts in town, all meals while on the mountain
Group camping and climbing equipment
All park/climbing permits
Scheduled in-country transportation
Airport transfers
Certified guides
Covid testing arrangements for re-entry into home country (does not include cost of test)
THE COST OF YOUR TRIP DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Flights to/from the city where the expedition begins.
Additional nights in hotel outside of the itinerary
Airport taxes
Visas
In-town dinners
Immunizations
Tips for guides or local staff
Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance
Hospitalization or evacuation costs
Single supplement charges
Excess baggage charges
Alcohol
Other personal expenses
Antigen/PCR Covid test cost
The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Alpenglow Expeditions or its agents are not included.
: While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
: When an expedition is more than 90 days out, we require a 20% deposit to guarantee your reservation. Within 90 days we require full payment.
: Please click here to review our international cancellation policy.
: Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high-altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.
: We use a Swiss weather forecasting company. Having a quality forecast for our 8,000m peaks maximizes both our safety and our summit success.
: We always consider customs. Custom trips make up more than 50% of our groups. Please reach out to learn more!
: Yes. The rental Hypoxico unit is included in the cost for the duration that is necessary for the expedition. We’ll arrange the rental for you and have it shipped right to your door. If you want/need to rent the unit longer, or have a separate unit rented due to travel etc, please reach out to our team and we’ll help work through the logistics with you.
: Yes. An eight-week rental of the Hypoxico Altitude Training Systems is included in the expedition price, and use of the system (or equivalent pre-acclimatization) is a requirement for joining our Rapid Ascent™ expeditions.
: Rapid Ascent™ is a unique program developed by Alpenglow Expeditions that combines the relatively new application of hypoxic training with precise logistics and small team sizes to greatly increase the chances of success while reducing the overall time spent away from home on an international expedition. Learn more about our Rapid Ascent approach HERE.

Equipment

Lhakpa Ri Equipment List

All the gear you need for your Lhakpa Ri expedition.

Download Equipment Link

Select a category

Hat
Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.
Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
Beanie
A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.
Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie
Balaclava
We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.
Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava
Neck Gaiter (Buff)
A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.
Recommended: Alpenglow Buff
Sunglasses
Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).
Recommended: Vaurnet Ice Rounds
Goggles
These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired.
Recommended: Vuarnet Everest Goggles
Liner Gloves
These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.
Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Wooltech Gloves
Lightweight Gloves
All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.
Recommended: Black Diamond Tour Gloves
Midweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.
Recommend: Black Diamond Mission MX Gloves
Heavyweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, with a removable fleece liner (so you can take the liner out and dry it at night). These gloves are used at higher altitudes and are needed to keep your hands dry, and warm. Over the cuff style is desired.
Recommended: Black Diamond Guide Gloves
Big Mountain Mitts
These mittens should be warm and worn over either a liner glove or a windstopper glove. Down mittens are not required. You should choose a pair that allows you to still operate locking carabiners.
Recommended: Black Diamond Absolute Mitts
Liner Socks
A super-thin wicking sock that repels moisture. Liner socks help to reduce the likelihood of blisters. The socks should be thin wool, nylon, or Capilene®. NO COTTON
Recommended: Ice Breaker Merino Liner
Hiking Socks
Your everyday sock, good for day hikes, trekking, and in-town. It’s good to bring several pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Hiking Sock
Warm Socks
A wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. Bring a few pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Mountaineering Sock
Heated Socks
These are optional, but highly recommended. Bring 2 sets of batteries. Hotronics boot heaters are another option instead of heated socks, but socks are preferred by our guides.
Recommended: Sidas Sock Set V2 Uni S-1200
Hiking Shoes
These light to mid-weight shoes are for everyday use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow.
Recommended: La Sportiva TX Guide
Base Camp Boots
These snow boots are good for wearing around camp and should be comfortable when you slip into them after spending significant time in your mountain boots.
Recommended Men’s: Sorel Caribou Boot
Recommended Women’s: Sorel Caribou Boot
Down Booties
You’ll love having a warm, comfortable shoe to slip into when tent-bound. These are optional, but nice to have.
Recommended: Western Mountaineering Flash Down Booties
Mountaineering Boots (6,000m – 7,000m)
Should be double boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8th of an inch when walking.
Recommended: La Sportiva G2 Evo
Lightweight Top
Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Sun Hoodie
Lightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Long Sleeve Base Layer
A long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient Crew
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Crew
Mid-Weight Warm Layer
A polar guard or fleece jacket. This mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Quarter Zip
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Quarter Zip
Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket
A simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Soft Shell Jacket
More breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Hard Shell Jacket
A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell
Down Parka
A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Quick Dry Shorts
Throw these on under other layers for when the sun begins to beat, or you want to stretch / relax in Basecamp. Lightweight, durable and comfortable. NO COTTON.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
2x Base Layer Bottoms
Fitted, light-weight, next to skin base layer.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Mens Solution 150 Merino Bottoms
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Solution 150 Merino Bottoms
2x Mid-Weight Layer Bottoms
Fitted and quick drying. This piece will be a Mid-Weight Layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants
Hiking Pant
Lightweight, durable, quick-drying hiking pant that will be your day-to-day pant during the expedition
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Soft-Shell Alpine Pant
You will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water-resistant.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Men’s Dawn Patrol Pants
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Women’s Dawn Patrol Pants
Hard Shell Climbing Pant
Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Recon Stretch Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Recon Stretch Pants
Insulated Pant
Full-length side zippers are recommended, for throwing on top of all of your layers.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stance Belay Pants
Duffle Bags
2 Duffle Bags – At least one bag should be extremely durable, waterproof, and big – between 90L and 120L. You should feel comfortable leaving it in a puddle for several hours. Remember dry clothes are hot commodities in the mountains! Large enough to fit everything you own, plus what you anticipate buying. Two duffel bags are necessary to fit all your equipment for travel (we don’t recommend checking your backpack, best is to put all gear and backpack into your duffle). Once in country, you can consolidate your gear into one duffel and your backpack. It’s common to leave the second duffel with city clothes and other non-necessary items behind in a locked and secure location that your guide will arrange for you.
Note: For ski expeditions such as the Ecuador Ring of Fire, you can replace one of these duffle bags with a ski/splitboard bag.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stonehauler 90L
Day Pack
Mid-size pack for city days and trekking. Streamlined, neat and lightweight (10-20 liters).
Recommended: Black Diamond Bullet 16 Pack
Climbing Pack: 50-60L
Internal frame pack that is between 50 and 60 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.
Recommended: Black Diamond Speed 50L Pack
Sleeping Bag (-20°)
Rated to -20º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG.
Recommended: Marmot Col -20°
Inflatable Sleeping Pad
72-inch long inflatable pad required. Make sure you also purchase and bring a repair kit + bag for the sleeping pad.
Recommended: NeoAir Xtherm
Foam Sleeping Pad
Foldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.
Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad
Trekking Poles
Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable.
Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles
Headlamps
Please bring two L.E.D. Headlamps. One will be intended as a lightweight backup. L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.
Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450
Backup Headlamp Recommended: Black Diamond Deploy 325
Hydration System
Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube
Two 1L Nalgene Bottles
Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.
Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
Compressible 1-1.5L Bottle
Wide mouth compressible 1-1.5 liter bottle. Optional but strongly recommended. Often used as a designated pee bottle.
Recommended: Nalgene Flexible Cantene
Thermos
A fully insulated thermos is optional but recommended for warm drinks that help with comfort, hydration, and safety on cold days in the mountains.
Recommended: Thermos STAINLESS KING™ DRINK BOTTLE 24OZ
Plastic Bowl, Mug, and Spoon
A lightweight and compact cookware setup. You’ll want a plastic bowl, mug and spoon.
Recommended Kit: MSR 2-Person Mess Kit
Lighters
2 BIC Lighters
Helmet
An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Vision Helmet – MIPS
Mountaineering Harness
Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Couloir
Mountaineering Crampons
Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail and that they fit snugly on your ski or snowboard boots. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons
General Mountaineering Axe
One non-technical climbing axe. The tool should be approx. 55cm- 65cm long and comfortable to hold. *Ice axes are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe
Locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight locking carabiners are best.
Recommended: Black Diamond LiteForge Screwgate
Non-locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight small carabiners are best, wire-gates are fine.
Recommended: Black diamond HotForge Carabiner
Belay Device
Light, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/grooves for skinny ropes.
Recommended: Black Diamond ATC Alpine Belay Device
Ascender
Should have a large opening for gloved hands, and an easy thumb trigger.
Recommended: Black Diamond Index Ascender
Avalanche Transceiver
A digital transceiver that is simple to use or that you are extremely comfortable using.
Recommended: Black Diamond Recon Avalanche X Beacon
Miscellaneous Items
- Passport (with visa, if necessary)
- 2 luggage locks (TSA compliant)
- Non-cotton underwear
- Wag bags, 1 per night camping as to leave no trace
- Stuffsacks: assorted sizes, for organizing your clothes and gear
- Sunscreen: SPF 30 (or higher)
- Lip balm with SPF 15 (or higher)
- Personal first-aid kit (Band-aids, Ibuprofen, Cough Drops, Moleskin, Pepto-bismol, Imodium, Personal Medications)
- Toiletries
- 3-4lbs of Snack food (a variety of snack food, some whole food, some bars, some gels)
- Hand Warmers
- Face Mask
- Hand Sanitizer
- Knife
- Mountain Face Mask (optional)
- Headphones
- Powerbank (6-10K mAh good for 2-3 phone charges, weighing under 8oz)

Testimonials

Alpenglow is the best
“I’ve been climbing with Alpenglow for over ten years. After my first expedition, I knew I’d found the best team. I feel like I’m a member of the Alpenglow family, and have come to know and love many of their guides, office staff, and programs. Alpenglow is truly the best!”
Evan M

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