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Packing for a Big Mountain Expedition: 10 Surprising Things You Can’t Leave Home Without

Many of us have seen pictures of guides, climbers, and skiers packing for big mountain expeditions. An array of equipment and personal items are always stacked in front of them, often neatly arranged, and spread across the living room. Gear upon gear, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, headlamps, solar chargers, helmets, boots, backpacks – you name it. You can barely see a hint of floor space peeking through. And that doesn’t even include the food (food is a whole separate packing story).

After years of packing for weeks and months in the mountains,

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Aconcagua Custom Expedition 2015

On Thursday, January, 22, Adrian and Gay flew into Mendoza, Argentina, after leaving their successful expedition in Antarctica where they reached the summit of Vinson Massif. They met Gay’s daughter Camilla in Mendoza along with Alpenglow assistant guide Reuben Shelton. Here’s Adrian’s snapshot of the crew on Friday, January 23, getting weighed before their heli to Base Camp, and Adrian commented that he bet that they wouldn’t weigh 285 kg when they returned!

 

Gay and Camilla both decided to attempt to climb all of the Seven Summits of the world and do as many of them as they…

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Alpenglow’s First Antarctica Expedition!

Jan. 12, 2015 – Alpenglow is in Antarctica for the first time! Founder and guide, Adrian Ballinger, is leading a custom expedition on Vinson Massif, the tallest mountain in Antarctica at (16, 050 feet). 

Adrian and Gay, Alpenglow climber, reached Antarctica on Friday after spending time in Punta Arenas at the tip of South America while they waited for right weather to travel to Antarctica. After flying to the polar continent on a Russian cargo plain that’s outfitted to land on an ice runway, Adrian and Gay settled in to Vinson Base Camp. They spent two nights there getting used…

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Trip Update Overload on Social Media!

Ok, not really. How can you ever have too many awesome pictures and team info? But we do have a lot of trips this month and we are launching a new way of keeping you posted on our teams across the globe.

Alpenglow will be posting daily trip updates on Twitter; we will show highlights of our trips on Facebook; and we will save our longer blog posts for summaries packed with info and photos that will go up every few days or so.

This is the perfect month to see if you like our new…

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More Than Beautiful: Ama Dablam

In two days, Alpenglow leaves for Nepal to begin our expedition on Ama Dablam. Considered by many to be one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalaya, Ama Dablam stands alone in the Solu Khumbu (Everest) valley, towering over the Sherpa villages of Thyangboche and Pangboche. “It is my favorite single mountain that I guide every year” expressed Alpenglow founder Adrian Ballinger, during a recent chat about the beauty, skill, and calculated risk Ama Dablam presents to its climbers.

Frequently compared to the Matterhorn, Ama Dablam is often hailed as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.…

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Psicobloc, Sherpa, and the North Side of Everest

 

On Friday night, Alpenglow Expeditions helped to host a benefit for the Khumbu Climbing Center at the Psicobloc climbing competition held in Park City, Utah. The Psicobloc Masters Series attracts the strongest climbers in the world and this year’s competition raised money for the Khumbu Climbing Center. The “KCC” trains Sherpa and high altitude workers in Nepal, readying them for the serious work of climbing the world’s tallest peaks. The KCC is an essential organization to the climbing community, and is supported by financial donation and the donated time of athletes, guides, and other mountain professionals that teach its…

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Words on 2014 Everest Tragedy

In the aftermath of the April 18, 2014 avalanche on Everest, thoughts of the families of the lost and injured Sherpa will strongly stay in our hearts.

The Alpenglow 2014 team left home for Nepal this weekend, with heavy hearts, but also with a strong resolve to help in any way we can. While our Sherpa team is safe and accounted for, there are other families who are suffering – not only the tragic loss of family members – but the fear of not being able to support themselves after the loss of their loved one.

We believe the Sherpa…

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Nepal *Raises* Permit Fees to Climb Mt. Everest

Lots of confusion seems to have occurred from Nepal’s announcement that fees to climb Everest are changing. In fact, many maninstream news outlets have gotten in on the story, and in this case, gotten it wrong. With headlines like “Nepal Slashes Mountaineering Fees for Everest” (http://abcnews.go.com/International/wireStory/nepal-slashes-mountaineering-fees-everest-22511494), social media is rampant today with people commenting on how this will lead to bigger crowds and countless problems on the mountain this spring.

While the mountain certainly has many issues, and in my opinion is in desperate need of oversight, either by climbers, ethical operators, an operator’s association, or the Nepali and Chines…

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Ama Season Wrap-Up

One last update from the Ama Dablam 2013 team…to add a little detail to the fantastic effort put in by Adrian and the Sherpa to open the route to the summit, and by the climbing team in achieving a 100% summit success.

As mentioned before, this season, the route to the summit presented a number of technical difficulties that other years have been less significant or not there at all. Many teams early in the season had worked hard to fix the ropes between camp one and camp two – which includes the technical “Yellow Tower”- and then between camp…

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Ama Dablam 2013 is in Full Swing

There’s been no down time for the Alpenglow crew since we arrived back in Nepal for our Ama Dablam season. I’ve probably written before that Ama is my favorite mountain in the world, and even after 11 times on the summit, I can’t wait to get back on the amazing ridges, fluted faces, and hopefully summit this incredible mountain. Alpenglow has 2 groups on the mountain this season. The first began their trek on Oct 23, and in perfect weather flew into Lukla and did a quick (thanks to Hypoxico pre-acclimatization) trek up the Khumbu Valley to base camp.…

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