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Heather Geluk’s Ama Dablam Summit Push – Summary

Camp 1 on Ama Dablam is perched high up on a rocky ridge offering just enough of a view of the route to the summit to conjure a range of emotions fluctuating on a sliding scale between excitement and sense of “what the hell have I gotten myself into…??”

Whilst it isn’t the most comfortable camping spot in the world, the fact that the sun crests over the mountain and hits the tents at 6.15 AM is a huge bonus particularly when everything seems to freeze solidly overnight and getting out of the deep, dark depths of a sleeping bag…

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First Summits of Alpenglow’s 2012 Ama Season!

Monica checked in with the following great news!

The first crew summitted this morning (Fri, 26 Oct.) between 0738 and 0847 Nepal time. Heather, Valdis, Sergey and Chad from C2.7 and Adrian from C1. Dorji, Da Nuru and Palden went with them.

Everything went really well and the great conditions meant that they all had fast times from camp to summit. Now they are well below high camp on their way down and I expect to see some, if not all of them in base camp this evening. Adrian will stay with Ephi at camp 1.

0738- Adrian Ballinger, Sergey…

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Ama Dablam Base Camp

I am happy to report that the entire Ama Dablam Expedition team is together again. The main part of the group arrived yesterday after a fun 7 day trek through the Khumbu Valley. The trek finished with a challenging day climbing 5550 meter/18,200 foot Chukkung Ri. Chukkung Ri is one of my favorite viewpoints in the Himalaya. It has stunning views of countless big peaks, and sits immediately below the imposing South Face of Lhotse, one of the biggest alpine walls in the world. The climb is also a good test for the group after mostly easy days trekking. We…

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Everest and Lhotse Expeditions 2013!

Many people have been waiting to hear from Alpenglow about our spring plans on Everest and Lhotse. First, thank you for considering us for your Himalayan climbing plans. After fifteen years in Nepal running successful expeditions on the lesser peaks (9x Ama Dablam, 1x Pumori, 7x Island Peak, 9x Lobuche Peak, and many others) along with five years as Himalayan Experience’s lead guide (4x Everest, 4x Manaslu, 1x Lhotse, 1x Cho Oyu), I am extremely excited to be running our own teams on Everest and Lhotse. 

As many of you know, this autumn we are running a small team on…

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The Base Camp Waiting Game

Sometimes waiting for a summit window is excruciating, especially on big mountains in the Himalaya where the waiting might go 1 week, 2 weeks, or longer. Here on Makalu, so far at least, the waiting is nice. We actually need a few days to celebrate our successes of the past few days, say goodbye to one of our members, and eat the creations of our head cook Tashi, drink a few beers and sodas, and watch some movies. We have also all needed some time to process the massive accident on Manaslu, a mountain that more than half our group…

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All OK on Makalu

Hi All, thanks for your messages and good thoughts. The Alpenglow team is safe on Makalu, not Manaslu. We have been as high as 6600 meters and are now in BC resting.

Our thoughts and energy go out to the ongoing rescue efforts on Manaslu, to our friends and family dealing with the disaster on the mountain, and to all those who have been affected by what is one of the biggest Himalayan accidents in history. 

-Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow Expeditions…

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Base Camp 4,800 Meters/15,750 Feet — Hypoxico Tents

Alpenglow’s staff has been working hard to not only get our team established on the world’s fifth tallest mountain, Makalu, but also to send pictures and dispatches back home. Our expedition doctor, Monica, and guide, Chad, have both taken their turns this week, so today’s update comes from me. There are so many stories already: exciting helicopter flights, unexpected nights in rustic towns along the Barun Valley, great food and comfort in our temporary base camp at 4,800 meters (15,750 feet), and today, a fun acclimatization hike to over 5,100 meters (16,750 feet). The hike took us over small rivers,…

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Welcome to Summit Sessions – Alpenglow’s Newest Blog!

Welcome to Alpenglow Expedition’s newest blog, Summit Sessions! Consider it a place for expert advice about all things mountaineering. We take a big view of mounatineeing, and our guides work in all disciplines and areas around the world. We love skiing, rock climbing, alpine climbing, and high altitude mountaineering. And we love the treks and hikes that get us to all the beautiful places we climb. Over the course of our last 8 years in business (and our guides’ lifetimes of experience, most of whom have been working in the mountains for more than a decade and playing in them…

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Aconcagua Summit – Photos and Wrap-up!

The Jones Family and crew gave us a fantastic first trip of the season on Aconcagua! The highlights were many, from the huge asados (barbeques) we had throughout the trip (in Mendoza before and after the climb, at the base camps, and on every night of the trek in), the beautiful route, quiet clean camps, and the stunning views. This season was especially beautiful on the mountain, due to the amount of snow on the route and the surrounding peaks. A big snowstorm in early December covered Aconcagua, and meant that we wore big mountain boots and crampons for much…

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Aconcagua Summit Bid Begins

The Aconcagua team checked in with another update, they are on their way up! The group tagged Camp 1 yesterday on an acclimatization move and gear carry in just three hours. Guide Adrian Ballinger said “everyone is feeling strong and healthy and conditions are excellent.” So this afternoon the Australian team and their guides left bascecamp for the summit push! The current plan is to move to Camp 1 today, sleep there for three nights, then three nights at Camp 2 and one night at Camp 3 before going for the top, conditions permitting. On descent they will stay at C3 for one night…

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