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The Base Camp Waiting Game

Sometimes waiting for a summit window is excruciating, especially on big mountains in the Himalaya where the waiting might go 1 week, 2 weeks, or longer. Here on Makalu, so far at least, the waiting is nice. We actually need a few days to celebrate our successes of the past few days, say goodbye to one of our members, and eat the creations of our head cook Tashi, drink a few beers and sodas, and watch some movies. We have also all needed some time to process the massive accident on Manaslu, a mountain that more than half our group…

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All OK on Makalu

Hi All, thanks for your messages and good thoughts. The Alpenglow team is safe on Makalu, not Manaslu. We have been as high as 6600 meters and are now in BC resting.

Our thoughts and energy go out to the ongoing rescue efforts on Manaslu, to our friends and family dealing with the disaster on the mountain, and to all those who have been affected by what is one of the biggest Himalayan accidents in history. 

-Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow Expeditions…

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Base Camp 4,800 Meters/15,750 Feet — Hypoxico Tents

Alpenglow’s staff has been working hard to not only get our team established on the world’s fifth tallest mountain, Makalu, but also to send pictures and dispatches back home. Our expedition doctor, Monica, and guide, Chad, have both taken their turns this week, so today’s update comes from me. There are so many stories already: exciting helicopter flights, unexpected nights in rustic towns along the Barun Valley, great food and comfort in our temporary base camp at 4,800 meters (15,750 feet), and today, a fun acclimatization hike to over 5,100 meters (16,750 feet). The hike took us over small rivers,…

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Welcome to Summit Sessions – Alpenglow’s Newest Blog!

Welcome to Alpenglow Expedition’s newest blog, Summit Sessions! Consider it a place for expert advice about all things mountaineering. We take a big view of mounatineeing, and our guides work in all disciplines and areas around the world. We love skiing, rock climbing, alpine climbing, and high altitude mountaineering. And we love the treks and hikes that get us to all the beautiful places we climb. Over the course of our last 8 years in business (and our guides’ lifetimes of experience, most of whom have been working in the mountains for more than a decade and playing in them…

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Aconcagua Summit – Photos and Wrap-up!

The Jones Family and crew gave us a fantastic first trip of the season on Aconcagua! The highlights were many, from the huge asados (barbeques) we had throughout the trip (in Mendoza before and after the climb, at the base camps, and on every night of the trek in), the beautiful route, quiet clean camps, and the stunning views. This season was especially beautiful on the mountain, due to the amount of snow on the route and the surrounding peaks. A big snowstorm in early December covered Aconcagua, and meant that we wore big mountain boots and crampons for much…

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Aconcagua Summit Bid Begins

The Aconcagua team checked in with another update, they are on their way up! The group tagged Camp 1 yesterday on an acclimatization move and gear carry in just three hours. Guide Adrian Ballinger said “everyone is feeling strong and healthy and conditions are excellent.” So this afternoon the Australian team and their guides left bascecamp for the summit push! The current plan is to move to Camp 1 today, sleep there for three nights, then three nights at Camp 2 and one night at Camp 3 before going for the top, conditions permitting. On descent they will stay at C3 for one night…

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2011 Aconcagua Expedition Begins

Alpenglow’s 2011 Aconcagua Expedition is underway! The team of five, which will be guided by Alpenglow’s owner, Adrian Ballinger, and lead guide Jaime Avila arrived in Mendoza on Monday. They spent a couple of days exploring the town, enjoying amazing wine and steak dinners, and finalizing logistics. Yesterday they traveled to the town of Penitentes, which at 8,000 feet, sits at the entrance to the valleys leading into Aconcagua through Argentina’s Andes. Today the team began the trek to basecamp through the landscape of the green Valle de Vacas and were to make their way to Las Leñas. More news to come! …

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Back in Kat and thinking of next season.

Back in Kathmandu

First of all, Himalayan Experience would like to apologise for getting the numbers of this season’s Manaslu summiteers slightly wrong. In our last newsletter, we stated that 46 people had reached the summit of the eighth highest peak in the world, however, after our Sirdar Phurba Tashi got back to base camp, we compared figures and noticed that instead of 23 Sherpas, ‘only’ 21 Sherpas had reached the top, reducing this number to 44. Despite this minor mistake, Himalayan Experience has still succeeded in almost putting 10 percent of the total ascents since 1956 on the summit…

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All down at BC after many successful summits!

The following blog is courtesy of Billi Bierling, Himalayan Experience:

Himalayan Experience Summit Success

Within two days, Himalayan Experience has put 46 people on the top of Manaslu, which actually makes up almost 10 percent of the total summits since the eighth highest mountain was first climbed by a Japanese team in 1956. “It turned out to be a good year, even though we were first worried that the weather would play tricks on us and we would not reach the summit at all,” a pleased Russell observed when the team and Sherpas got back to base camp.

4th October…

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