Skip to Content

Mount Shasta 2-Day Avalanche Gulch Climb

Mount Shasta summit Direct 2-day route Northern California Fast-paced climb Physical fitness Limited time Alpine climbing trip Avalanche Gulch Quick ascent Magnificent stratovolcano Cascade Range High camp Snow climbing techniques Alpine start Trailhead descent Aggressive itinerary Proper training Alternative routes Ski descent option Private trip options Alpenglow Expeditions, Olympic Valley California, Tahoe, Lake Tahoe, Backcountry skiing tahoe, rock climbing tahoe, AIARE tahoe, Lake Tahoe adventures, Lake Tahoe Activities, Palisades Tahoe, Tahoe Via Ferrata
Mount Shasta summit Direct 2-day route Northern California Fast-paced climb Physical fitness Limited time Alpine climbing trip Avalanche Gulch Quick ascent Magnificent stratovolcano Cascade Range High camp Snow climbing techniques Alpine start Trailhead descent Aggressive itinerary Proper training Alternative routes Ski descent option Private trip options Alpenglow Expeditions, Olympic Valley California, Tahoe, Lake Tahoe, Backcountry skiing tahoe, rock climbing tahoe, AIARE tahoe, Lake Tahoe adventures, Lake Tahoe Activities, Palisades Tahoe, Tahoe Via Ferrata

Mount Shasta 2-Day Avalanche Gulch Climb

$1,495per person
Intermediate 2 days Mount Shasta, CA
Climb Mount Shasta’s Avalanche Gulch with our professional California mountain guides! This direct 2-day route is a rewarding and fast-paced summit of Mount Shasta (14,179’/4322m), the jewel of Northern California. This quick ascent of Shasta is suitable for those with very good physical fitness and limited time.
May 11, 2024 – May 12, 2024
Inquire
Mount Shasta summit Direct 2-day route Northern California Fast-paced climb Physical fitness Limited time Alpine climbing trip Avalanche Gulch Quick ascent Magnificent stratovolcano Cascade Range High camp Snow climbing techniques Alpine start Trailhead descent Aggressive itinerary Proper training Alternative routes Ski descent option Private trip options Alpenglow Expeditions, Olympic Valley California, Tahoe, Lake Tahoe, Backcountry skiing tahoe, rock climbing tahoe, AIARE tahoe, Lake Tahoe adventures, Lake Tahoe Activities, Palisades Tahoe, Tahoe Via Ferrata
Hotlum Glacier Mountaineering training Glacier travel Crevasse rescue Mountaineering school Summit climb California mountaineering Mountaineering skills High-altitude peaks Aspiring mountaineers Skills training Glacial travel Snow travel skills Northeast side Shasta Climbing experience Expedition climbing Complex routes Ice sheets Premier mountaineering peak Mountaineering foundation Alpenglow Expeditions Olympic Valley California, Tahoe, Lake Tahoe, Backcountry skiing tahoe, rock climbing tahoe, AIARE tahoe, Lake Tahoe adventures, Lake Tahoe Activities, Palisades Tahoe, Tahoe Via Ferrata
Mount Shasta Avalanche Gulch Trip Overview

This is a 2-day alpine climbing trip that will focus on a quick summit of Mount Shasta- a magnificent stratovolcano at the southern end of the Cascade Range- via the famous Avalanche Gulch route.

The first day on Mount Shasta will involve climbing up to a high camp around 9,500 ft elevation where you will make camp for the night, go over basic snow climbing techniques, and plan for the next morning’s summit. An alpine start on day 2 will get you to the top of Mount Shasta by late morning and back to the trailhead by early evening. This is an aggressive itinerary and proper training is essential to success!

Preparation

Technical

Previous experience climbing with an ice ax and crampons is highly recommended, but not required for this trip.

Fitness

Excellent physical fitness is required. Climbers must be able to hike for many hours at a time while carrying a pack.
Day 1
Ascend to Camp

8:00am: Meet and Greet in Town
9:30am: Depart for Bunny Flat trailhead (6,880 ft)
11:00am-12:00pm: Lunch break at historic Horse Camp (7,880 ft)
3:00pm: Arrive at Camp (9,500 ft) and set up camp
4:00pm – 5:00pm: Climbing training
5:30pm:-7:30pm Dinner, Climb briefing, pack
8:00pm: Bed

Day 2
Summit Attempt

Alpine start (1:00am-3:00am, conditions dependent)
Turnaround time (10:00am-12:00pm, conditions dependent)
3:00pm: Depart from Helen Lake for Trailhead
4:30pm-5:30pm: Arrive at Trailhead

Alpenglow’s California Guides

Our Mount Shasta Guides

Meet who you will be climbing Mount Shasta’s Avalanche Gulch with.
FAQ’s

Mount Shasta Avalanche Gulch Questions

Here are the most commonly asked questions about climbing Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta.
Equipment

Mount Shasta Avalanche Gulch Equipment List

Here’s what you’ll need to climb Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta.
Download Equipment Link

  • Hat

    Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.

    Recommended: Alpenglow Hat

  • Beanie

    A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie 

  • Balaclava

    We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava

  • Neck Gaiter (Buff)

    A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.

    Recommended: Alpenglow Buff

  • Sunglasses

    Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).

    Recommended: Vaurnet Ice Rounds

  • Goggles

    These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired.

    Recommended: Vuarnet Everest Goggles

  • Liner Gloves

    These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Wooltech Gloves

  • Lightweight Gloves

    All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Tour Gloves

  • Midweight Gloves

    These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.

    Recommend: Black Diamond Mission MX Gloves

  • Ski Socks

    Ski socks will keep your feet warm and dry during long tours in the mountains.

    Recommended: Smartwool

     

  • Hiking Shoes

    These light to mid-weight shoes are for everyday use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow.

    Recommended: La Sportiva TX Guide

  • Mountaineering Boot (4,000m)

    Should be warm single boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon, or double boots if you have very cold feet. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8 of an inch when walking.

    Recommended Early Season (April-June): La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX 

    Recommended Late Season (July-August): La Sportiva Trango Tech GTX

  • Lightweight Top

    Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve

  • Sun Hoodie

    Lightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody

  • Long Sleeve Base Layer

    A long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient Crew

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Crew

     

     

     

  • Mid-Weight Warm Layer

    A polar guard or fleece jacket. This mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Quarter Zip

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Quarter Zip

  • Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket

    A simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Jacket

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Jacket

  • Soft Shell Jacket

    More breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.

    Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody

    Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody

  • Hard Shell Jacket

    A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell

  • Down Parka

    A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka

  • Base Layer Bottoms

    Fitted and quick drying. This piece will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants

  • Soft-Shell Alpine Pant

    You will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water-resistant.

    Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Men’s Dawn Patrol Pants

    Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Women’s Dawn Patrol Pants

  • Hard Shell Climbing Pant

    Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.

    Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Recon Stretch Pants

    Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Recon Stretch Pants

  • Helmet

    An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Vision Helmet – MIPS

  • Mountaineering Harness

    Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Couloir

  • Mountaineering Crampons

    Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail and that they fit snugly on your ski or snowboard boots. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons

  • General Mountaineering Axe

    One non-technical climbing axe. The tool should be approx. 55cm- 65cm long and comfortable to hold. *Ice axes are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe

  • Technical Kit

    While the technical equipment needed for a specific objective and season varies, this basic kit is a great baseline. Your guide will bring gear for you to use during your course, but participants are encouraged to bring some or all of this if you own it or are interested in purchasing it.

    1 Cordalette (6mm x 5m/16.4′)
    4 locking carabiners
    2 non-locking carabiners
    1 double-length Dyneema sling
    Small prusik loop (6mm x 112cm/44″)
    Auto-blocking belay device (eg. ATC guide)
    Micro Traxion or similar

  • Sleeping Bag (15º)

    Rated to 15º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Granite Gear Compression Sack is desired.

    Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Phantom 15

  • Foam Sleeping Pad

    Foldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.

    Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad

  • Climbing Pack: 60-75L

    Internal frame pack that is between 60 and 75 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Mission 75

  • Trekking Poles

    Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles

  • Headlamp

    L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.

    Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450

  • Two 1L Nalgene Bottles

    Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.

    Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth

  • Hydration System

    Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube

Mount Shasta Testimonials

  • I’d give them 7 stars if I could!

    “Super happy with our Mt. Shasta 3-Day climb guided by Tim Mincey from Alpenglow. The Alpenglow team was very helpful and responsive in getting our trip planned and booked. Tim did a superb job not only coaching us on mountaineering basics and safety, but also making adjustments to our plan based on day-to-day weather. Everyone in our climbing party was thinking about what next adventure we can book with Alpenglow before we even got off the mountain. I’d give them 7 stars if I could!”

    Tom M.
More Adventures
Hotlum Glacier Mountaineering training Glacier travel Crevasse rescue Mountaineering school Summit climb California mountaineering Mountaineering skills High-altitude peaks Aspiring mountaineers Skills training Glacial travel Snow travel skills Northeast side Shasta Climbing experience Expedition climbing Complex routes Ice sheets Premier mountaineering peak Mountaineering foundation Alpenglow Expeditions Olympic Valley California, Tahoe, Lake Tahoe, Backcountry skiing tahoe, rock climbing tahoe, AIARE tahoe, Lake Tahoe adventures, Lake Tahoe Activities, Palisades Tahoe, Tahoe Via Ferrata

Mount Shasta 3-Day West Face Climb

Intermediate Next Available
Apr 19, 2024 – Apr 21, 2024 3 Days Mount Shasta, CA
Mountaineering skills High-altitude peaks Sierra Nevada mountains Climbing course Introduction to mountaineering Glacier skills Crevasse rescue Climbing experience High altitude climbing Expedition climbing Snow and ice climbing Equipment choices Ropework techniques Alpine environment Hazard recognition Crampons and ice axe Self arrest techniques Belaying and rappelling Anchors and knots Security strategies Alpenglow Expeditions, Olympic Valley California, Tahoe, Lake Tahoe, Backcountry skiing tahoe, rock climbing tahoe, AIARE tahoe, Lake Tahoe adventures, Lake Tahoe Activities, Palisades Tahoe, Tahoe Via Ferrata

Intro to Mountaineering Course

Introductory Next Available
Mar 16, 2024 1 full day (8 hours) North Lake Tahoe, CA

High Sierra Alpine Climbing

Advanced Next Available
May 01 – Nov 15 Full-Day or Multiple Days High Sierra, CA

Backcountry 1.0 In South Lake Tahoe

Introductory Next Available
Dec 8, 2023 Full Day, 8 Hours South Lake Tahoe, CA
@AlpenglowExpeditions