Carstensz Pyramid Expedition

Carstensz Pyramid

Introductory 11 Days West Papua

Located on the remote Island of West Papua, the Carstenz Pyramid is a mesmerizing limestone peak that rises high above the dense jungle below. Topping out at 16,024’/4,884m above sea level, the Carstensz Pyramid is the tallest peak in Oceania.

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Carstensz Pyramid

CLIMB ONE OF THE SEVEN SUMMITS

Standing at 16,024′/4,884m, the Carstensz Pyramid is the tallest peak in Oceania. Rising out of the remote jungle of Papua New Guinea, it is often regarded as the most exotic of the 7 Summits. This steep limestone peak is the only Seven Summits that involves rock climbing, making it a unique experience for Seven Summiteers and adventure seekers alike.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Our journey to the summit of the tallest peak in Oceania starts in Bali. After arriving in Indonesia, we’ll spend the first day organizing gear and resting from the long day of travel. From Bali, we’ll take a flight to the city of Timika on the Island of Western Papua. After arriving in Timika, we’ll re-pack and make sure that we are all dialed in for the coming expedition.

Weather permitting, we’ll take a helicopter to the Carstensz base camp the following morning. Upon arriving in the Yellow Valley, we’ll put up base camp and settle in. This will also be the first of our two day acclimatization period as we prepare for our summit bid.

After two days of acclimatizing, we’ll be ready to push for the summit. An early start and a short trek from base camp will see us at the foot of the Carstensz Pyramid. The route follows a series of gullies with technical climbing up to 5.8 as we work our way up the North Face of the peak. There is about 1,640’/500m of solid rock climbing before reaching the summit ridge.

Once we make the ridge, we’ll start traversing as we make our way towards the summit. This section is pretty straight forward, with some awesome exposure and a Tyrollean traverse across a gully.

After making our way across the razorback ridge, we’ll arrive at the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid. Standing at 16,024’/4,884m, the summit of this incredible peak rewards our climb with stunning views of Western Papua. We’ll celebrate having climbed one of the Seven Summits and start to work our way back down to base camp.

The Alpenglow Difference

Certified and Professional Mountain Guides

Alpenglow’s AMGA/IFMGA-certified lead guides manage our Carstensz expeditions. This certification is the most prestigious in the world, attained only by the most experienced and dedicated guides. Our lead guides have traveled and climbed extensively all over the world, guaranteeing an experience you won’t soon forget.

Quality Logistics

We work with an incredible local logistics team that helps us navigate the complicated logistics that comes with climbing on this remote island. Taking a helicopter from the city of Timika to base camp allows us to avoid difficult local political disputes and reduce the time spent away from family and business. Coupled with the best guides in the business and a high emphasis on quality logistics, food, camp infrastructure, and Alpenglow office support allows us to provide the best climbing experience possible.

Preparation

Fitness

Climbers should be in great physical shape. While this climb is not a long and sustained multi-day climb, the summit push is a big day and will require great physical fitness.

Technical Experience

Climbers will need to have prior multi-pitch experience and be able to climb up to 5.8.

Altitude

Prior experience at altitude is recommended but not required.

Itinerary and Map

Carstensz Itinerary

Day 0: Arrive

Today you arrive in Bali, Indonesia. We’ll use this day to allow the team to arrive and get settled to start the expedition.

Activity: Arrive in Bali, Indonesia
Sleeping Elevation: 100’/30m
Lodging: Hotel in Bali
Meals: None
Day 1: Rest & Organize in Bali

After your long travel day, we’ll spend today resting and organizing gear.

Activity: Rest and Organize in Bali
Sleeping Elevation: 100’/30m
Lodging: Hotel in Bali
Meals: Breakfast
Day 2: Fly to Timika

Today we’ll fly to the remote Island of Western Papua. Arriving in the city of Timika in the morning, we’ll spend the rest of the day making sure that our gear is all dialed for the helicopter flight to Carstensz base camp the next morning.

Activity: Fly to Timika/Organize gear
Moving Hours: 4 hours
Sleeping Elevation: 100’/30m
Lodging: Hotel in Timika
Meals: Breakfast
Day 3: Fly to Base Camp

From Timika, a short helicopter flight will see us arrive at the foot of Oceania’s tallest peak. We’ll set up base camp as we start to acclimatize at 13,780’/4,200m.

Activity: Fly to Base Camp
Moving Hours: 40 min
Elevation Gain/Loss: +13,600’/4,145m
Sleeping Elevation: 13,780’/4,200m
Day 4: Acclimatize

We’ll spend the day acclimatizing and resting before our summit push. We’ll get to bed early to prepare for an early start tomorrow morning.

Activity: Acclimatize/Rest
Sleeping Elevation: 13,780’/4,200m
Lodging: Base Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 5: Summit Bid

Starting bright and early, we’ll make our way from base camp to the start of the “Harrer” route on the North face of the Carstensz Pyramid. 1,640’/500m of rock climbing and scrambling will see us make the summit ridge. From the ridge, an exposed traverse will take us to the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid. After a short celebration, a series of rappels and some trekking will see us back in base camp.

Activity: Summit Carstensz Pyramid
Distance Covered: 1-2 miles
Moving Hour: 10-12 hours
Elevation Gain/Loss: +/- 2,244’/684m
Sleeping Elevation: 13,780’/4,200m
Lodging: Base Camp
Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Days 6-8: Extra Days

We’ve built in some extra days in case of weather delays etc. If we don’t need these days, we’ll head out of base camp and back to Timika and onto Bali.
Day 9: Return to Timika/Bali

Today we’ll take a helicopter flight back to Timika, and either overnight in Timika or connect through to Bali to depart for home.

Activity: Fly to Tamika/Bali
Moving Hours: 1-4 hours
Elevation Gain/Loss: -13,600’/4,145m
Sleeping Elevation: 100’/30m
Lodging: Hotel in Timika/Bali
Meals: Breakfast
Day 10: Fly Home

Our Guides

Carstensz Pyramid Guides

Meet some of the guides you might be climbing with in West Papua.

FAQ’s

Carstensz Pyramid FAQ’s

Everything you need to know about climbing Carstensz Pyramid

: THE COST OF YOUR TRIP INCLUDES YOUR LAND COSTS (EXCLUDING IN-TOWN MEALS). THIS INCLUDES:
All lodging according to itinerary, including double occupancy lodging while in town and group lodging in mountain huts.
Breakfasts in town, all meals while on the mountain
Group camping and climbing equipment
All park/climbing permits
Scheduled in-country transportation
Airport transfers
Certified guides
Covid testing arrangements for re-entry into home country (does not include cost of test)

THE COST OF YOUR TRIP DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Flights to/from the city where the expedition begins.
Additional nights in hotel outside of the itinerary
Airport taxes
Visas
In-town dinners
Immunizations
Tips for guides or local staff
Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance
Hospitalization or evacuation costs
Single supplement charges
Excess baggage charges
Alcohol
Other personal expenses
Antigen/PCR Covid test cost
The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Alpenglow Expeditions or its agents are not included.
: When an expedition is more than 90 days out, we require a 20% deposit to guarantee your reservation. Within 90 days we require full payment.
: We always consider customs. Custom trips make up more than 50% of our groups. Please reach out to learn more!
: While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
: Covid vaccinations are not required, but highly recommended.
: We require Rescue Insurance on all of our international expeditions. Rescue insurance will help cover costs in the event that you need to be rescued off the mountain (Ex: Helicopter/medical evacuation). Travel Insurance (which we strongly recommend) can cover issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance, like illness. We do recommend Ripcord who does offer a Comprehensive Travel Protection option to your required Rescue (Evacuation) Insurance.
: Yes. Please reach out to our team with the details of your dietary restrictions and we’ll set you up for success.
: Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a Western-trained cook staff. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.
: Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high-altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.
: We use a Swiss weather forecasting company. Having a quality forecast for our 8,000m peaks maximizes both our safety and our summit success.
: Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. While Dr. Piris does not travel with our team on all expeditions, she is in 24 communication with our expedition leaders. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.
: Please click here to review our international cancellation policy.

Equipment

Gear for Carstensz Pyramid

The key to a successful expedition is having the right gear.

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Duffle Bags
2 Duffle Bags – At least one bag should be extremely durable, waterproof, and big – between 90L and 120L. You should feel comfortable leaving it in a puddle for several hours. Remember dry clothes are hot commodities in the mountains! Large enough to fit everything you own, plus what you anticipate buying. Two duffel bags are necessary to fit all your equipment for travel (we don’t recommend checking your backpack, best is to put all gear and backpack into your duffle). Once in country, you can consolidate your gear into one duffel and your backpack. It’s common to leave the second duffel with city clothes and other non-necessary items behind in a locked and secure location that your guide will arrange for you.

Recommended: Black Diamond Stonehauler 90L
Hydration System
Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube
Climbing Pack: 50-60L
Internal frame pack that is between 50 and 60 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.

Recommended: Black Diamond Speed 50L Pack
Day Pack
Mid-size pack for city days and trekking. Streamlined, neat and lightweight (10-20 liters).

Recommended: Black Diamond Bullet 16 Pack
Non-locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight small carabiners are best, wire-gates are fine.

Recommended: Black diamond HotForge Carabiner
Locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight locking carabiners are best.

Recommended: Black Diamond LiteForge Screwgate
General Mountaineering Axe
One non-technical climbing axe. The tool should be approx. 55cm- 65cm long and comfortable to hold. *Ice axes are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Recommended: Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe
Mountaineering Crampons
Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons
Mountaineering Harness
Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Recommended: Black Diamond Couloir
Helmet
An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.

Recommended: Black Diamond Vision Helmet – MIPS
Thermos
A fully insulated thermos is recommended for warm drinks that help with comfort, hydration, and safety on cold days in the mountains.

Recommended: Thermos STAINLESS KING™ DRINK BOTTLE 24OZ
Coffee
While Alpenglow provides hot drink options every morning, it can be nice to have your own on hand any time you need a boost. With hot water always readily available, having instant coffee packets can give you the energy you need after a long day in the mountains!

Recommended: Alpine Start Original Blend Instant Coffee
Lighters
2 BIC Lighters
Plastic Bowl, Mug, and Spoon
A lightweight and compact cookware setup. You’ll want a plastic bowl, mug and spoon.

Recommended Kit: MSR 2-Person Mess Kit
Compressible 1-1.5L Bottle
Wide mouth compressible 1-1.5 liter bottle

Recommended: Nalgene Flexible Cantene
Two 1L Nalgene Bottles
Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.

Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
Base Layer Bottoms
Fitted and quick drying. This piece will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants
Expedition-Weight Base Layer
Fitted, light-weight and quick drying. The mid-weight will be a base- layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures. Bring multiple changes of layers.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Mens Solution 150 Merino Bottoms

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Solution 150 Merino Bottoms
Quick Dry Shorts
Throw these on under other layers for when the sun begins to beat, or you have a sudden urge to jump in a glacial lake. Lightweight, durable and comfortable. NO COTTON.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
Hiking Pant
Lightweight, durable, quick-drying hiking pant that will be your day-to-day pant during the expedition

Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant

Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Soft-Shell Alpine Pant
You will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water-resistant.

Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Winter Alpine Pants

Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Highline Stretch Pants
Lightweight Top
Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Sun Hoodie
Lightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Long Sleeve Base Layer
A long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient Crew

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Crew
Mid-Weight Warm Layer
A polar guard or fleece jacket. This mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Quarter Zip

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Quarter Zip
Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket
A simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Jacket

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Jacket
Snowboard Boots
The same boots you wear at the resort are great for your splitboard. Be sure they’re comfortable, backcountry touring means long days in your boots!

Recommended: Burton Tourist Snowboard Boots
Ski Touring Boots
These need to be a touring specific boot with walk mode, and a rubber sole. Typically sized a bit larger than your regular alpine boot, and light weight is a huge plus. Be sure to try many pairs on to find the right fit; it can make or break a day in the mountains!

Recommended: Fischer Transalp Pro or Transalp Tour WS
Probe
A strong, lightweight avalanche probe, 260-300cm.

Recommended: Black Diamond QuickDraw Pro Probe 280
Avalanche Transceiver
A digital transceiver that is simple to use or that you are extremely comfortable using.

Recommended: Black Diamond Recon Avalanche X Beacon
Ski/Splitboard Poles
Adjustable ski poles with powder baskets. Note: Splitboarders, be sure to use 3 section poles so they collapse small enough to reasonably attach to your pack while in riding mode.

Recommended: Black Diamond Expedition 2 or Expedition 3 Poles
Climbing Skins
Many options are available, and are often comparable. Most important is to ensure your skins are trimmed properly for the ski you will be touring with. Skins with a secure tail clip are preferred.

Recommended for Skis: Black Diamond Ascension Nylon STS

Recommended for Splitboards: Black Diamond Ascension Splitboard STS
Splitboard
A splitboard that you are comfortable riding in a variety of conditions.

Recommended: Jones Solution Splitboard
Splitboard Crampons
While splitboard crampons are strongly recommended on our domestic backcountry splitboard programs, they are required on all of our International Splitboard Expeditions. These are typically used on early spring days when the snow is often icy on the way up before the conditions transition. Many bindings accept a compatible crampon made by the manufacturer.

Recommended: Spark R&D Ibex ST Splitboard Crampons
Ski Touring Bindings
Alpine Touring bindings are designed to allow up-hill travel and down-hill descent. We recommend a lightweight binding with heel risers to assist on steeper terrain.

Recommended: Black Diamond ATK Crest 10 Touring Bindings
Ski Crampons
While ski crampons are strongly recommended on our domestic backcountry ski programs, they are required on all of our International Ski Expeditions. These are typically used on early spring days when the snow is often icy on the way up before the conditions transition. Many bindings accept a compatible crampon made by the manufacturer.

Recommended: Black Diamond ATK Ski Crampons
Hard Shell Climbing Pant
Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Pant

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Pant
Insulated Pant
Full-length side zippers are recommended, for throwing on top of all of your layers.

Recommended: Black Diamond Stance Belay Pant
Soft Shell Jacket
More breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.

Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody

Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Hard Shell Jacket
A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell
Down Parka
A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.

Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka

Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Liner Gloves
These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.

Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Wooltech Gloves
Down Suit
We HIGHLY recommend an 8000m insulated suit rather than a separate top and bottom.

Recommended Men’s: The North Face Down Suit

Recommended Women’s: The North Face Women’s Down Suit
Heavyweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, with a removable fleece liner (so you can take the liner out and dry it at night). These gloves are used at higher altitudes and are needed to keep your hands dry, and warm. Over the cuff style is desired.

Recommended: Black Diamond Guide Gloves
Lightweight Gloves
All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.

Recommended: Black Diamond Tour Gloves
Midweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.

Recommend: Black Diamond Mission MX Gloves
Big Mountain Mitts
These mittens should be warm and worn over either a liner glove or a windstopper glove. Down mittens are not required. You should choose a pair that allows you to still operate locking carabiners.

Recommended: Black Diamond Absolute Mitts
Liner Socks
A super-thin wicking sock that repels moisture. Liner socks help to reduce the likelihood of blisters. The socks should be thin wool, nylon, or Capilene®. NO COTTON

Recommended: Ice Breaker Merino Liner
Hiking Socks
Your everyday sock, good for day hikes, trekking, and in-town. It’s good to bring several pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.

Recommended: Darn Tough Hiking Sock
Warm Socks
A wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. Bring a few pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.

Recommended: Darn Tough Mountaineering Sock
Headlamp
L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.

Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450
Skis w/ Touring Bindings
A lightweight touring ski with touring bindings. Our guides suggest something between 95mm and 110mm underfoot. Keep in mind that extremely lightweight boards are great on the uphill, but can prove challenging in variable conditions.

Recommended Skis: Black Diamond Helio Carbon 95 Skis

Recommended Bindings: Black Diamond ATK Crest 10 Bindings
Mountaineering Boots (8,000m)
Fully insulated, double boots with an integrated gaiter. These boots are essential for 8000-meter peaks

Recommended: La Sportiva Olympus Mons
Inflatable Sleeping Pad
72-inch long inflatable pad required. Make sure you also purchase and bring a repair kit + bag for the sleeping pad.

Recommended: NeoAir Xtherm
Sleeping Bag (-30°)
Rated to -30º F to -40º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Many climbers also like a silk liner.

Granite Gear Compression Sack is desired.

Recommended: Eddie Bauer Kara Koram with Compression Sack
Mountaineering Boots (5,000 – 6,000m)
Should be warm single or double boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8th of an inch when walking. (If your feet run cold, we would recommend a double boot like the La Sportiva G2 Evo.) For our Introductory Climbing Schools, we have limited availability and sizes for free boot rentals. If you need rentals, please reach out to the office staff asap to ensure we have your size.

Recommended: La Sportiva G5 Evo
Heated Socks
These are optional, but highly recommended. Bring 2 sets of batteries. Hotronics boot heaters are another option instead of heated socks, but socks are preferred by our guides.

Recommended: Sidas Sock Set V2 Uni S-1200
Hiking Shoes
These light to mid-weight shoes are for everyday use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow.

Recommended: La Sportiva TX Guide
Base Camp Boots
These snow boots are good for wearing around camp and should be comfortable when you slip into them after spending significant time in your mountain boots.

Recommended Men’s: Sorel Caribou Boot

Recommended Women’s: Sorel Caribou Boot
Down Booties
You’ll love having a warm, comfortable shoe to slip into when tent-bound. These are optional, but nice to have.

Recommended: Western Mountaineering Flash Down Booties
Beanie
A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.

Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie
Balaclava
We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.

Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava
Sunglasses
Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).

Recommended: Vaurnet Ice Rounds
Goggles
These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired.

Recommended: Vuarnet Everest Goggles
Belay Device
Light, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/grooves for skinny ropes.

Recommended: Black Diamond ATC Alpine Belay Device
Ascender
Should have a large opening for gloved hands, and an easy thumb trigger.

Recommended: Black Diamond Index Ascender
Accessory Cord
25’ of 6mm nylon accessory cord. This will be used to make prusiks and cordalettes.

Recommended: Sterling Ropes
Miscellaneous Items
- Passport (with visa, if necessary)
- 2 luggage locks (TSA compliant)
- Non-cotton underwear
- Wag bags, 1 per night camping as to leave no trace
- Stuffsacks: assorted sizes, for organizing your clothes and gear
- Sunscreen: SPF 30 (or higher)
- Lip balm with SPF 15 (or higher)
- Personal first-aid kit (Band-aids, Ibuprofen, Cough Drops, Moleskin, Pepto-bismol, Imodium, Personal Medications)
- Toiletries
- 3-4lbs of Snack food (a variety of snack food, some whole food, some bars, some gels)
- Hand Warmers
- Face Mask
- Hand Sanitizer
- Knife
- Steripen
- Headphones
Ice Tool (2)
Two technical ice climbing axes. Its best to have one with an adze and one hammer. The tools should be approx. 50cm. long. These should be modern curved tools with waterfall ice picks. *Spinner leashes are required (Black Diamond leashes are excellent)

Recommended: Black Diamond Viper Ice Tools
Sleeping Bag (-20°)
Rated to -20º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG.

Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Lamina -20°
Sleeping Bag (0°F)
Rated to 0º F. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Many climbers also like a silk liner. For the Ecuador Climbing School: If you’re on our 9-Day (non-extension) trip, then a 20º F rated bag is ok.

Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0°F
Trekking Poles
Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable.

Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles
Hiking Boots
Light to mid- weight boots for everyday use. The ideal boot is comfortable enough to wear for days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined boot often stays drier when hiking in rain or snow.

Recommended: La Sportiva Trango TRK GTX
Mountaineering Boots (6,000m – 7,000m)
Should be double boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8th of an inch when walking.

Recommended: La Sportiva G2 Evo
Waterproof Gaiters
GORE-TEX® or Schoeller® calf- high gaiters, insulated supergaiters recommended. *Gaiters are not needed if your pants and/or boots have built-in gaiters.

Recommended: Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiters (required if your boots do not have integrated gaiters)
Ice Axe Leash (single)
A waist leash to be used with your ice axe. The leash is designed to help keep your axe attached to you if you drop it while climbing. Please be sure to purchase a waist leash and not a wrist leash

Recommended: Black Diamond Slinger Leash
Ice Axe Leash (Dual)
A waist leash for both your two-tool technical ice tools.

Recommended: Black Diamond Spinner Leash
Shovel
A lightweight metal avalanche rescue shovel. Extendable handle is recommended.

Recommended: Black Diamond Evac 7
Touring Backpack
Internal frame pack that is between 25 and 35 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners to protect from precipitation. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.

Recommended: Black Diamond Dawn Patrol 32L
Synthetic Top
A simple, lightweight synthetic jacket. This item is good for layering systems to stay warm in cold, wet conditions.

Recommended: Black Diamond First Light Stretch Hoodie
Ski Helmet
A ski specific helmet that is less than 10 years old.

Recommended: Scott Track Plus Helmet
Technical Kit
While the technical equipment needed for a specific objective and season varies, this basic kit is a great baseline. Your guide will bring gear for you to use during your course, but participants are encouraged to bring some or all of this if you own it or are interested in purchasing it.

1 Cordalette (6mm x 5m/16.4′)
4 locking carabiners
2 non-locking carabiners
1 double-length Dyneema sling
Small prusik loop (6mm x 112cm/44″)
Auto-blocking belay device (eg. ATC guide)
Micro Traxion or similar
Trekking Pants
You will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose a breathable and water resistant pant.

Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Light Pants
Climbing Harness
Rock climbing harness that has gear loops, adjustable leg loops and waist belts. We recommend a harness that does not require the belt loop to be “double backed”.

Recommended: Black Diamond Zone Harness
Climbing Pants
Recommended: Rocklock Pants
Prusik
HollowBlock2 or equivalent, OR 2m of 6mm nylon accessory cord.

Recommended: Sterling HollowBlock 2
Accessory Cord
5m of 6mm nylon accessory cord.

Recommended: Sterling Accessory Cord
Slings (24″ and 48″)
Lightweight, sewn slings made from either nylon or Dyneema.

Recommended: Petzl ST’ANNEAU
Small Backpack
Recommended: Black Diamond Speed 30 Pack
Climbing Shoes
Recommended: La Sportiva TC Pro
Approach Shoes
Recommended: La Sportiva TX4
Climbing Rope
Rope depends on objective.

Recommended: Black Diamond Ropes
Quickdraws
Recommended: Black Diamond Hotforge
Climbing Pack: 60-75L
Internal frame pack that is between 60 and 75 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.

Recommended: Black Diamond Mission 75
Mountaineering Boot (4,000m)
Should be warm single boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon, or double boots if you have very cold feet. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8 of an inch when walking.

Recommended Early Season (April-June): La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX

Recommended Late Season (July-August): La Sportiva Trango Tech GTX
General Mountaineering Boot
Should be warm single boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8 of an inch when walking.

Recommended: La Sportiva Trango Tech GTX
Ski Socks
Ski socks will keep your feet warm and dry during long tours in the mountains.

Recommended: Smartwool
Sleeping Bag (15º)
Rated to 15º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Granite Gear Compression Sack is desired.

Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Bishop Pass™ Gore-Tex® 15F/-9C
Foam Sleeping Pad
Foldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.

Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad
Ski Mountaineering Ice Axe
A small, light weight ice axe designed for ski mountaineering. Typically between 45cm and 55cm.

Recommended: Black Diamond Venom LT Classic Piolet
Neck Gaiter (Buff)
A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.

Recommended: Alpenglow Buff
Hat
Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.

Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
7mm Accessory Cord
7mm Accessory Cord used to create a personal anchoring system to use in technical terrain.
Pear Shaped Carabiner (x2)
A Pear Shaped HMS carabiner.

Recommended: Black Diamond RockLock Screw Gate Carabiner

Testimonials

Alpenglow is the best
“I’ve been climbing with Alpenglow for over ten years. After my first expedition, I knew I’d found the best team. I feel like I’m a member of the Alpenglow family, and have come to know and love many of their guides, office staff, and programs. Alpenglow is truly the best!”

Evan M

Mount Everest North Side Rapid Ascent™

Advanced Next Available
April 28, 2024 – June 02, 2024 36 Days Nepal

Learn More
Cotopaxi Rapid Ascent™

Intermediate Next Available
Next Available: Nov 22nd – Nov 26th, 2023 5 Days Ecuador

Learn More
Aconcagua Rapid Ascent™

Intermediate Next Available
Dec 16, 2023 – Dec 29, 2023 14 Days Argentina

Learn More
Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent™

Advanced Next Available
September 1, 2024- September 29, 2024 29 Days Tibet

Learn More
Gasherbrum II Rapid Ascent™

Advanced Next Available
June 24th – July 28th, 2023 35 Days Karakoram Pakistan

63.0692° N, 151.0070° W Learn More

More Expeditions

Fitness

Technical Experience

Altitude

Carstensz Itinerary

Duffle Bags

Hydration System

Climbing Pack: 50-60L

Day Pack

Non-locking Carabiner (2)

Locking Carabiner (2)

General Mountaineering Axe

Mountaineering Crampons

Mountaineering Harness

Helmet

Thermos

Coffee

Lighters

Plastic Bowl, Mug, and Spoon

Compressible 1-1.5L Bottle

Two 1L Nalgene Bottles

Base Layer Bottoms

Expedition-Weight Base Layer

Quick Dry Shorts

Hiking Pant

Soft-Shell Alpine Pant

Lightweight Top

Sun Hoodie

Long Sleeve Base Layer

Mid-Weight Warm Layer

Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket

Snowboard Boots

Ski Touring Boots

Probe

Avalanche Transceiver

Ski/Splitboard Poles

Climbing Skins

Splitboard

Splitboard Crampons

Ski Touring Bindings

Ski Crampons

Hard Shell Climbing Pant

Insulated Pant

Soft Shell Jacket

Hard Shell Jacket

Down Parka

Liner Gloves

Down Suit

Heavyweight Gloves

Lightweight Gloves

Midweight Gloves

Big Mountain Mitts

Liner Socks

Hiking Socks

Warm Socks

Headlamp

Skis w/ Touring Bindings

Mountaineering Boots (8,000m)

Inflatable Sleeping Pad

Sleeping Bag (-30°)

Mountaineering Boots (5,000 – 6,000m)

Heated Socks

Hiking Shoes

Base Camp Boots

Down Booties

Beanie

Balaclava

Sunglasses

Goggles

Belay Device

Ascender

Accessory Cord

Miscellaneous Items

Ice Tool (2)

Sleeping Bag (-20°)

Sleeping Bag (0°F)

Trekking Poles

Hiking Boots

Mountaineering Boots (6,000m – 7,000m)

Waterproof Gaiters

Ice Axe Leash (single)