Climb Mount Elbrus
Mount Elbrus Rapid Ascent™ Expedition
The Alpenglow Approach has been developed over the last two decades, and our expertise in Ecuador means the best possible mountain experience.
- FULLY CERTIFIED IFMGA LEAD GUIDES
- PROFESSIONALLY TRAINED AND CERTIFIED MOUNTAIN GUIDES
- RAPID ASCENT™ HYPOXICO RENTAL INCLUDED
- HIGH END BASE CAMP AND MOUNTAIN INFRASTRUCTURE
- ON-CALL EXPEDITION DOCTOR
- Office Staff Support
- Unfortunately, we have cancelled our 2023 Elbrus Season
Elbrus is the highest point in all of Europe, making this climb one of the renowned ‘Seven Summits’.
Mt. Elbrus, a dormant, double-coned volcano, rises to 18,510 feet. (5,642 meters) Its double peaks tower over the stunning western Caucasus Region of Russia, near the border of Georgia. Boasting 22 glaciers on the peak, this is the perfect climb for anyone with a strong fitness level who wishes to build on basic glacier climbing skills, climb a moderate high altitude peak, and explore the fascinating and diverse Russian culture in the Caucasus mountains and the famed city of Moscow.
The Alpenglow Difference
Rapid Ascent™ Approach
Rapid Ascent™ is achieved by utilizing Hypoxico tents for 1 month prior to departure (this is required & the tent rental fee is included in cost of trip). Arriving in Russia pre-acclimatized through the Rapid Ascent™ system, we are able to complete this typically 2-week expedition in only 6 days. We have had great success with pre-acclimatization in the highest mountain ranges of the world and strongly suggest this method as a way of staying healthy and strong on traditionally long expeditions and ultimately, having a greater chance of summit success.
Certified, Professional Mountain Guides
Our Mt. Elbrus expedition will be led by one of Alpenglow’s AMGA-certified lead guides. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) certification is the highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. We will be supported by a great team of Russian guides and a cook. Their experience and local knowledge will not only make your trip more comfortable, they will also add to your understanding of this mountain and the local people.
Climb from the South Side of Elbrus
Alpenglow Expeditions climbs Elbrus from the accessible south side, which benefits from the use of snowcats and chair lifts to gain altitude and mountain huts for sleeping. This means that you only have to carry a small pack on all of your climbing days, allowing you to enjoy your summit experience much more. Time is spent reviewing the necessary skills to climb a glaciated snow and ice route, and the terrain creates a perfect progression from low angled cramponing early on the mountain to more exposed and steeper slopes on summit day.
The Itinerary
Our trip meets in the small city of Mineral Voldy and then travels to Elbrus where we base in mountain huts known as the Barrels. Thanks to our local Russian support team, we will continue to eat well and carry only light packs, even at this camp high on the mountain.
After 2 days of skills practice and moving up the mountain, we make our summit push. Summit day on Elbrus is strenuous and long. We wake around 3 am and have a quick breakfast before boarding a snowcat to take us to our previous high point on the mountain at 15,000 feet (4,572 meters). From there we don crampons, rope, and ice axe and begin the climb. As the sun rises we will be high on the mountain, with the sun giving us energy for the final push. From the summit we will enjoy well deserved views of the surrounding peaks before making a quick descent back to the hut.
After descending to the valley and celebrating our climb, we depart for Mineral Vody. We recommend adding a couple of days in Moscow on your way home!
If you are an advanced skier with backcountry (off-piste) experience, it is also possible to arrange to ski Mt. Elbrus. Since ski mountaineering is one of the Alpenglow guide team’s favorite activities, we would love to arrange a ski descent for you! Please call us to discuss this option.
FITNESS
TECHNICAL
ALTITUDE
Mount Elbrus Rapid Ascent™ Itinerary
- Day 1
- Arrive in Mineral Vody
Arrive in Mineral Vody, where you will meet your guides. The bus ride is 3-4 hours but will pass quickly with the stunning views. Our hotel in Terskol is new, next to the ski lifts, and has excellent local and international food. Once we arrive we will have our first team meeting, check equipment and prepare to climb!
- Day 2
- Move up to Mount Elbrus
Today we begin our climb of Mt. Elbrus. Thanks to our Rapid Ascent preparation and pre-acclimatization with Hypoxico tents, we can move to altitude immediately. Through a combination of ski lifts and hiking we arrive at The Barrels, cozy mountain huts at 12,300 feet (3,750 meters) on Elbrus. To ensure we stay well fed and healthy, we will have a Russian cook with us at the huts preparing mountain food and making our stay more comfortable. We spend the afternoon near the Barrels reviewing glacier travel skills – roped travel, crampon and ice axe technique
- Day 3
- Acclimatize Hike to Pastukhov Rocks
Climb to Pastukhov Rocks at approximately 15,000 feet (4,572 meters). As well as a chance to practice our glacier and crampon skills, this is also an important climb for acclimatization and a great time to see the route on the mountain in daylight. We return to the Barrels by midday, and rest and hydrate for our summit climb.
- Day 4
- Summit Day
Summit Day! We wake around 3 AM for a quick breakfast and hot drink. An optional snow-cat (weather dependent) takes us to our previous highpoint at Pastukhov Rocks, just below 15,000 feet (4,572 meters). From there it is almost 4,000 vertical feet (1,220 meters) to the summit of Elbrus, primarily on open moderately angled glaciers. We should reach the summit mid-morning and have stunning views of the Caucuses from Europe’s highest summit. The round-trip climb back to the Barrels takes around twelve hours.
- Day 5
- Weather Day
An extra summit day. If we have already climbed Elbrus, we descend to the Baksan Valley in the morning for a celebration. Night in Hotel.
- Day 6
- Depart
Drive back to Mineral Voldy where you catch your flights home, onto Moscow or perhaps elsewhere in Russia! Flights should not depart before noon local time.
Our Guides
Mount Elbrus Rapid Ascent™ Equipment
- Hat
Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.
Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
- Beanie
A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.
Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie
- Balaclava
We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.
Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava
- Neck Gaiter (Buff)
A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.
Recommended: Alpenglow Buff
- Sunglasses
Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).
Recommended: Vuarnet Ice Rounds
- Goggles
These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired.
Recommended: Vuarnet Everest Goggles
- Liner Gloves
These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.
Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Screentap Liners
- Lightweight Gloves
All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.
Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Softshell Gloves
- Midweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.
Recommend: Black Diamond Tour Gloves
- Heavyweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, with a removable fleece liner (so you can take the liner out and dry it at night). These gloves are used at higher altitudes and are needed to keep your hands dry, and warm. Over the cuff style is desired.
Recommended: Black Diamond Guide Gloves
- Liner Socks
A super-thin wicking sock that repels moisture. Liner socks help to reduce the likelihood of blisters. The socks should be thin wool, nylon, or Capilene®. NO COTTON
Recommended: Ice Breaker Merino Liner
- Hiking Socks
Your everyday sock, good for day hikes, trekking, and in-town. It’s good to bring several pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Hiking Sock
- Warm Socks
A wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. Bring a few pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Mountaineering Sock
- Hiking Shoes
These light to mid-weight shoes are for everyday use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow.
Recommended: La Sportiva Bushido
- Mountaineering Boots (5,000 – 6,000m)
Should be warm single or double boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8th of an inch when walking. (If your feet run cold, we would recommend a double boot like the La Sportiva G2 Evo.) For our Introductory Climbing Schools, we have limited availability and sizes for free boot rentals. If you need rentals, please reach out to the office staff asap to ensure we have your size.
Recommended: La Sportiva G5 Evo
- Down Booties
You’ll love having a warm, comfortable shoe to slip into when tent-bound. These are optional, but nice to have.
Recommended: Western Mountaineering Flash Down Booties
- Waterproof Gaiters
GORE-TEX® or Schoeller® calf- high gaiters, insulated supergaiters recommended. *Gaiters are not needed if your pants and/or boots have built-in gaiters.
Recommended: Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiters (required if your boots do not have integrated gaiters)
- Lightweight Top
Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
- Sun Hoodie
Lightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
- Lightweight Baselayer Top
A long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Solution 150 Merino Crew
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Solution 150 Merino Crew
- Mid-Weight Warm Layer Top
This mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Coefficient LT Quarter Zip Pullover
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Coefficient LT Quarter Zip Pullover
- Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket
A simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
- Soft Shell Jacket
More breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
- Hard Shell Jacket
A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Stormline Stretch Rain Shell
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Stormline Stretch Shell
- Down Parka
A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
- Lightweight Baselayer Bottoms
Fitted and quick drying. This piece will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures. This can be 3/4 length bottoms if preferred.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Solution 150 Merino Baselayer
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution 150 Merino Baselayer
- Mid-Weight Baselayer Bottoms
Fitted, mid-weight and quick drying, this baselayer (or midlayer) will be suitable for ski tours to alpine ascents.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Coefficient LT Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Coefficient LT Pants
- Quick Dry Shorts
Throw these on under other layers for when the sun begins to beat, or you want to stretch / relax in Basecamp. Lightweight, durable and comfortable. NO COTTON.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
- Hiking Pant
Lightweight, durable, quick-drying hiking pant that will be your day-to-day pant during the expedition
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
- Soft-Shell Alpine Pant
You will spend most of your days in these pants. They should be breathable + water-resistant.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Alpine Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Alpine Pants
- Hard Shell Climbing Pant
Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Fineline Stretch Full Zip Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Fineline Stretch Full Zip Pants
- Insulated Pant
Full-length side zippers are recommended, for throwing on top of all of your layers.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stance Belay Pants
- Duffel Bags
2 Duffel Bags – At least one bag should be extremely durable, waterproof, and big – between 90L and 120L. You should feel comfortable leaving it in a puddle for several hours. Remember dry clothes are hot commodities in the mountains! Large enough to fit everything you own, plus what you anticipate buying. Two duffel bags are necessary to fit all your equipment for travel (we don’t recommend checking your backpack, best is to put all gear and backpack into your duffel). Once in country, you can consolidate your gear into one duffel and your backpack. It’s common to leave the second duffel with city clothes and other non-necessary items behind in a locked and secure location that your guide will arrange for you.
Note: For ski expeditions such as the Ecuador Ring of Fire, you can replace one of these duffel bags with a ski/splitboard bag.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stonehauler 90L
- Day Pack
Mid-size pack for city days and trekking. Streamlined, neat and lightweight (10-20 liters).
Recommended: Black Diamond Bullet 16 Pack
- Climbing Pack: 50-60L
Internal frame pack that is between 50 and 60 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.
Recommended: Black Diamond Speed 50L Pack
- Sleeping Bag (0°F)
Rated to 0º F. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Many climbers also like a silk liner. For the Ecuador Climbing School: If you’re on our 9-Day (non-extension) trip, a 20º F rated bag is ok.
Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0°F
- Inflatable Sleeping Pad
72-inch long inflatable pad required. Make sure you also purchase and bring a repair kit + bag for the sleeping pad.
Recommended: NeoAir® XLite™ NXT Sleeping Pad
- Foam Sleeping Pad
Foldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.
Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad
- Trekking Poles
Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable. These are optional, but highly recommended.
Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles
- Headlamps
Please bring two L.E.D. Headlamps. One will be intended as a lightweight backup. L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.
Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450
Backup Headlamp Recommended: Black Diamond Deploy 325
- Hydration System
Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube
- Two 1L Nalgene Bottles
Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.
Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
- Compressible 1-1.5L Bottle
Wide mouth compressible 1-1.5 liter bottle. Optional but strongly recommended. Often used as a designated pee bottle.
Recommended: Nalgene Flexible Cantene
- Thermos
A fully insulated thermos is optional but recommended for warm drinks that help with comfort, hydration, and safety on cold days in the mountains.
Recommended: Thermos STAINLESS KING™ DRINK BOTTLE 24OZ
- Plastic Bowl, Mug, and Spoon
A lightweight and compact cookware setup. You’ll want a plastic bowl, mug and spoon.
Recommended Kit: MSR 2-Person Mess Kit
- Lighters
2 BIC Lighters
- Helmet
An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Vapor Helmet
- Mountaineering Harness
Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Couloir
- Mountaineering Crampons
Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail and that they fit snugly on your ski or snowboard boots. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons
- General Mountaineering Axe
One non-technical climbing axe. The tool should be approx. 55cm- 65cm long and comfortable to hold. *Ice axes are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe
- Locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight locking carabiners are best.
Recommended: Black Diamond LiteForge Screwgate
- Non-locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight small carabiners are best, wire-gates are fine.
Recommended: Black Diamond LiteWire Carabiner
- Belay Device
Light, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/grooves for skinny ropes.
Recommended: Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide Belay Device
- Ascender
Should have a large opening for gloved hands, and an easy thumb trigger.
Recommended: Black Diamond Index Ascender
- Miscellaneous Items
- Passport (with visa, if necessary)
- 2 luggage locks (TSA compliant)
- Non-cotton underwear
- Wag bags, 1 per night camping as to leave no trace
- Day Pack (optional) – Mid-size for city days/trekking
- Stuffsacks: assorted sizes, for organizing your clothes and gear
- Sunscreen: SPF 30 (or higher)
- Lip balm with SPF 15 (or higher)
- Personal first-aid kit (Band-aids, Ibuprofen, Cough Drops, Moleskin, Pepto-bismol, Imodium, Personal Medications, Saline nasal spray)
- Toiletries
- 3-4lbs of Snack food (a variety of snack food, some whole food, some bars, some gels)
- Hand Warmers
- Flip flops or sandals/crocs – for showers, lounging, etc
- Face Mask
- Hand Sanitizer
- Knife
- Mountain Face Mask (optional)
- Headphones
- Powerbank (6-10K mAh good for 2-3 phone charges, weighing under 8oz)
Mount Elbrus Rapid Ascent™ FAQ’s
All team members participating on a Rapid Ascent™ expedition must have previously climbed to or been over 16,000′ (5,000m). If you have yet to reach those altitudes, reach out to our team to see how we can best get you qualified for the Rapid Ascent Program.
THE COST OF YOUR TRIP INCLUDES YOUR LAND COSTS (EXCLUDING IN-TOWN MEALS). THIS INCLUDES:
All lodging according to itinerary, including double occupancy lodging while in town and group lodging in mountain huts.
Breakfasts in town, all meals while on the mountain
Group camping and climbing equipment
All park/climbing permits
Scheduled in-country transportation
Airport transfers
Certified guides
Covid testing arrangements for re-entry into home country (does not include cost of test)THE COST OF YOUR TRIP DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Flights to/from the city where the expedition begins.
Additional nights in hotel outside of the itinerary
Airport taxes
Visas
In-town dinners
Immunizations
Tips for guides or local staff
Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance
Hospitalization or evacuation costs
Single supplement charges
Excess baggage charges
Alcohol
Other personal expenses
Antigen/PCR Covid test cost
The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Alpenglow Expeditions or its agents are not included.When an expedition is more than 90 days out, we require a 20% deposit to guarantee your reservation. Within 90 days we require full payment.
We always consider customs. Custom trips make up more than 50% of our groups. Please reach out to learn more!
Rapid Ascent™ is a unique program developed by Alpenglow Expeditions that combines the relatively new application of hypoxic training with precise logistics and small team sizes to greatly increase the chances of success while reducing the overall time spent away from home on an international expedition. Learn more about our Rapid Ascent approach HERE.
Yes. The rental Hypoxico unit is included in the cost for the duration that is necessary for the expedition. We’ll arrange the rental for you and have it shipped right to your door. If you want/need to rent the unit longer, or have a separate unit rented due to travel etc, please reach out to our team and we’ll help work through the logistics with you.
While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
Yes. An eight-week rental of the Hypoxico Altitude Training Systems is included in the expedition price, and use of the system (or equivalent pre-acclimatization) is a requirement for joining our Rapid Ascent™ expeditions.
Covid vaccinations are not required, but highly recommended.
We require Rescue Insurance on all of our international expeditions. Rescue insurance will help cover costs in the event that you need to be rescued off the mountain (Ex: Helicopter/medical evacuation). Travel Insurance (which we strongly recommend) can cover issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance, like illness. We do recommend Global Rescue who does offer a Comprehensive Travel Protection option to your required Rescue (Evacuation) Insurance.
Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a Western-trained cook staff. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.
Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high-altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.
We use a Swiss weather forecasting company. Having a quality forecast for our 8,000m peaks maximizes both our safety and our summit success.
Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. While Dr. Piris does not travel with our team on all expeditions, she is in 24 communication with our expedition leaders. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.
Alpenglow is the best
“I’ve been climbing with Alpenglow for over ten years. After my first expedition, I knew I’d found the best team. I feel like I’m a member of the Alpenglow family, and have come to know and love many of their guides, office staff, and programs. Alpenglow is truly the best!”
Evan M
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