Are Covid vaccinations required?

Covid vaccinations are not required, but highly recommended.

Do I need to purchase Rescue Insurance and Travel Insurance?

We require Rescue Insurance on all of our international expeditions. Rescue insurance will help cover costs in the event that you need to be rescued off the mountain (Ex: Helicopter/medical evacuation). Travel Insurance (which we strongly recommend) can cover issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance, like illness. We do recommend Global Rescue who does offer a Comprehensive Travel Protection option to your required Rescue (Evacuation) Insurance.

Do you have an expedition doctor?

Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. While Dr. Piris does not travel with our team on all expeditions, she is in 24 communication with our expedition leaders. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.

While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.

Is the Hypoxico Rental included?

Yes. The rental Hypoxico unit is included in the cost for the duration that is necessary for the expedition. We’ll arrange the rental for you and have it shipped right to your door. If you want/need to rent the unit longer, or have a separate unit rented due to travel etc, please reach out to our team and we’ll help work through the logistics with you.

Is the Pre-acclimatization equipment included in the price?

Yes. An eight-week rental of the Hypoxico Altitude Training Systems is included in the expedition price, and use of the system (or equivalent pre-acclimatization) is a requirement for joining our Rapid Ascent™ expeditions.

What all is included and excluded?

THE COST OF YOUR TRIP INCLUDES YOUR LAND COSTS (EXCLUDING IN-TOWN MEALS). THIS INCLUDES: All lodging according to itinerary, including double occupancy lodging while in town and group lodging in mountain huts. Breakfasts in town, all meals while on the mountain Group camping and climbing equipment All park/climbing permits Scheduled in-country transportation Airport transfers Certified guides Covid testing arrangements for re-entry into home country (does not include cost of test) THE COST OF YOUR TRIP DOES NOT INCLUDE: Flights to/from the city where the expedition begins. Additional nights in hotel outside of the itinerary Airport taxes Visas In-town dinners Immunizations Tips for guides or local staff Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance Hospitalization or evacuation costs Single supplement charges Excess baggage charges Alcohol Other personal expenses Antigen/PCR Covid test cost The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Alpenglow Expeditions or its agents are not included.

What do I need to do to confirm my reservation?

When an expedition is more than 90 days out, we require a 20% deposit to guarantee your reservation. Within 90 days we require full payment.

What is the Rapid Ascent Approach?

Rapid Ascent™ is a unique program developed by Alpenglow Expeditions that combines the relatively new application of hypoxic training with precise logistics and small team sizes to greatly increase the chances of success while reducing the overall time spent away from home on an international expedition. Learn more about our Rapid Ascent approach HERE .

What is your international expedition cancellation policy?

Please click here to review our international cancellation policy.

What kind of food will you have?

Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a Western-trained cook staff. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.

Where do you get your weather forecasts?

We use a Swiss weather forecasting company. Having a quality forecast for our 8,000m peaks maximizes both our safety and our summit success.

Would you consider doing a custom expedition?

We always consider customs. Custom trips make up more than 50% of our groups. Please reach out to learn more!

What sort of experience is needed for Cho Oyu?

In order to join our Cho Oyu expedition, climbers must have experience on an 7000 meter peak. Many climbers gain this experience by joining our expedition to Aconcagua. Climbers must have solid ice and snow climbing experience, including the use of ice axe, crampons and fixed rope systems.

Cho Oyu Expedition

28.099722°N , 86.66°E

Person standing in front of Cho Oyu during an expedition, with a beautiful white mountain background and clear blue skies during a guided expedition with Alpenglow Expeditions..

Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent™ Climbing Expedition

Advanced 29 Days Tibet

Climb Cho Oyu in 29 days, in our unique Rapid Ascent™ style. At 26,906′ /8201m, Cho Oyu is the sixth-highest mountain in the world and one of the famed fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. Our Cho Oyu Expedition is the perfect first 8,000-meter peak for many climbers and the ideal training peak for Mount Everest.

September 9, 2024 – Oct 6, 2024

$49,950Per Person

The Alpenglow Approach has been developed over the last 20 years with the intention to maximize safety and success while minimizing risk and time spent away from family and work. We strive to provide the highest quality mountain experience available on Cho Oyu.

Rapid Ascent™ Approach
Certified, Professional Mountain Guides
Experienced Sherpa Teams
5 Bottles of O2 Per Climber
High End Base Camp and Mountain Infrastructure
On-Call Expedition Doctor

Inquire

Client hiking up a glaciated slope during a Cho Oyu ski Expedition with Alpenglow Expeditions.

Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent™ Introduction

Cho Oyu Climbing Expedition Overview

Climb the 6th Tallest Peak on the planet in only 28 days.

Known as “the easiest 8,000m peak,” Cho Oyu is the last step on The Road To Everest.

The Alpenglow Difference

Rapid Ascent™ Approach

Alpenglow Expeditions Rapid Ascent™ climbs are an entirely new way to approach big-mountain expeditions. After 20 years of guiding expeditions all over the world, including more than a dozen 8,000-meter peak expeditions, we have refined and distilled the acclimatization and climbing process to maximize safety, health, success, and enjoyment. Our Rapid Ascent™ Approach allows us to cut the traditional climbing time on Cho Oyu down by nearly half. We’ll pre-acclimatize using the Hypoxico Altitude Training Systems for 6-weeks, then utilize our premium logistics and world class guides to climb the mountain in the most efficient manner possible.

Cho Oyu Guide Ratio

We have a 4:1 maximum guide to climber ratio. All guides are IFMGA qualified or aspirants working towards finishing their certification. This is the lowest member to guide ratio in the Himalaya.

Cho Oyu Sherpa Ratio

1:1 sherpa to climber ratio. This ensures we have the sherpa necessary to carry loads, set camps, and assist climbers. All of our lead and personal sherpa on Cho Oyu are Nepali, and have worked with us on many expeditions to other peaks including Everest and Ama Dablam. They are assisted by local Tibetan sherpa for carrying loads and setting camps.

Cho Oyu Expedition Doctor

Experienced expedition doctor Monica Piris (12 x 8,000 meter peak expeditions) works with the group throughout the expedition. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.

Cho Oyu Weather Forecasting

We use Swiss weather forecasts on all of our expeditions. Having a quality forecast tailored to Cho Oyu maximizes both our safety and our summit success.

Maximum Oxygen Support On Cho Oyu

We allot 5 bottles of oxygen per climber on Cho Oyu. This allows us to use oxygen while climbing and at all of our camps. We also climb to the summit on a higher oxygen flow than other expeditions, ensuring safety and maximizing success. Our Sherpa also climb on oxygen on summit day (unusual on Cho Oyu), which means they have more strength and comfort to focus on you and your ascent.

High Quality Food On Cho Oyu

Our Western-trained cook staff use imported and local foods of the highest quality to make you delicious meals. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.

Wifi on Cho Oyu

Unlimited WiFi Internet in advanced base camp. Our focus on technology allows you to stay in touch with home and office via email, text message, and phone at no additional expense.

Expedition Overview

Cho Oyu – The Perfect First 8,000m Peak

There are a number of reasons why we recommend Cho Oyu (26,906′/8,201m) as your first 8,000 meter peak. To begin with, the route up Cho Oyu is of a reasonable difficulty, with few technical sections. Second, the route has limited objective dangers as compared to other 8,000-meter peaks. There is limited risk from rock and icefall, and avalanche conditions tend to be rare and when they occur, predictable. And third, the mountain experiences much better weather than other “easy” 8,000 meter peaks in Nepal and Pakistan. This means we can spend more time climbing and acclimatizing and less time sitting in storms in tents. The mountain is also stunningly beautiful, has incredible views of both Tibet and Nepal from the climb and its summit, and our expedition gives us a taste of both Nepal and Tibet en route to and from the peak. It is also an excellent 8,000 meter ski peak for experienced and fit big-mountain skiers. Contact us to discuss this option.

Despite all of these reasons that make Cho Oyu the “easiest 8,000 meter peak”, it should not be underestimated. We require a significant amount of experience from each of our team members to ensure that you will feel comfortable on the peak, both with your own skills and of those of your teammates.

Cho Oyu Expedition Leader – Adrian Ballinger

Alpenglow Expeditions ensures that the logistics, guiding and base camp staff, food, and equipment are of the absolute highest-level possible. Alpenglow’s 8,000 meter peak expeditions are organized and led by IFMGA guide, Adrian Ballinger. Adrian is one of the most recognized guides in the Himalaya, and the pre-eminent American high-altitude guide (the only US guide with both AMGA/IFMGA certification and more than ten 8,000-meter peak summits). Adrian has an impeccable safety record, eleven 8,000 meter peak summits all while guiding or rope-fixing for guided teams, and has guided more than 50 clients to the summit of Mt. Everest over his past 6 summits). Adrian also has extensive experience organizing complicated logistics for large Himalayan teams (including 6 years as lead guide for one of the Himalaya’s largest companies), as well as countless hours on the mountain rope-fixing with sherpa, guiding members, and assisting and organizing rescues.

We are also the leader in offering Rapid Ascent™ trips to 8,000 meter peaks, utilizing pre- acclimatization and more Sherpa and guide support than anyone else in the industry. This allows you to climb and summit Cho Oyu quickly and safely.

Cho Oyu Route Description

Our climb of Cho Oyu begins after arriving in Base Camp (15,750 feet/4,800 meters) via 4wd Landcruisers. The drive from Lhasa is a couple of days, but goes through stunning scenery as we move through the Tibetan Plateau. We spend a day in Base Camp, organizing equipment to go up the mountain. Our pre-acclimatization means this drive and BC time takes only 2-3 days, instead of a week or more.

With each member pre-acclimatized, we move from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) in one day. ABC is actually where we spend most of our time on Cho Oyu and our camp, perched in a glacial moraine at 18,530’/5,650m, is comfortable and sunny, and is the home of our full Alpenglow infrastructure – heated dining tents, fully stocked kitchen, heated communications and hangout tent, internet access, and much more.

After some necessary rest and acclimatization hikes around ABC and to the nearby Nangpa La (a famous glaciated pass that leads into Nepal and is often traveled by local traders) we move to Camp 1 (21,000 feet/6,400 meters). The climb to Camp 1 begins easily by following the morainal valley to a small lake, before climbing steeply up a challenging scree slope to camp in a protected bowl on the glacial ridge. We spend at least 3 nights in Camp 1. During this time we also make an acclimatization climb over the short but challenging ice cliff (a steep 20-30 meter climb of firm ice on fixed lines), and across broad glaciated slopes to Camp 2, at 23,000 feet/7,000 meters. We do not spend a night in Camp 2, since we will utilize oxygen above this altitude on our summit push. After this climb to Camp 2 we descend to ABC for rest and to prepare for our summit push.

Our final ascent of Cho Oyu utilizes Camp 1, Camp 2, and a Camp 3 (24,250’/7,400m). We climb to, and sleep at, Camp 3 on supplemental oxygen to ensure we are strong and healthy on summit day. The climb to the summit begins with the route’s technical crux, a short steep rock step. From there the route climbs thirty to forty degree snow slopes up to the summit plateau. The top of Cho Oyu’s summit plateau is almost flat and the route traverses all the way to its far end and the true summit where we are rewarded with views of countless Tibetan and Nepali peaks, including inspiring views of Mt. Everest.

From the summit we descend to Camp 2 where we spend the night, and then continue down to ABC to celebrate our Cho Oyu summit, rest, and prepare for our return to Kathmandu and home.

An overview of the Northwest Ridge on the Tibetan Side of Cho Oyu.

Preparation

FITNESS

Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.

TECHNICAL

Must be able to climb moderate rock, ice, and snow terrain, often with an alpine pack on your back. You should be comfortable with camp craft in high-altitude camps, and able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude. Prior ascents of multiple 6000 – 7000 meter peaks is required.

ALTITUDE

Climbers must have substantial climbing experience to join our Cho Oyu Expedition. Prior ascents of multiple 6000 – 7000 meter peaks is required. Climbers must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high- altitude camps and be able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude.

Two climbers sitting eating lunch on a snowy slope during a Cho Oyu Expedition with Alpenglow Expeditions.

Itinerary & Map

Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent™ Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival
Climbers fly into Chengdu, China, arriving anytime this evening or early the next morning (day 1 of our itinerary). Team members must pick up their Tibet Travel Permits in Chengdu. Alpenglow arranges for these documents to be sent to the hotel of your choice if spending a night in Chengdu, or to the airport during your layover. A layover of 6 hours minimum is required for the delivery of these documents. [This is considered a travel day and is not part of the Alpenglow program.]
Day 2: Fly to Lhasa
Fly by plane to Lhasa (12,000 feet/3,650 meters). Arrive by mid-afternoon at the latest. From the airport it is an hour drive into Lhasa, where we have a bit of time to walk around the old city, and enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner. Climbers are responsible for all flights.
Day 3: Visit the Potala Palace and Jokhang Monastary, drive to Shigatse (12,500 feet/3,800 meters).
The Potala Palace, former home of the Dalai Lama, and ancient Jokhang Monastary, are two of Tibet’s most important cultural sites, imperative to understanding this unique place. After a morning exploring with our local guide, we drive a few hours along the now paved road to Everest, stopping for the night in Shigatse, and our simple but clean hotel.
Day 4: Drive Shigatse to Shelkar.
We’ll spend a night in Shelkar to aid in our acclimatization. This small town is only a few hours from base camp.
Day 5: Drive to Base Camp
We’ll finish the drive to base camp in just three hours, arriving at 16,100’ and marking the start of our climb.
Day 6: Rest day in BC
We’ll spend the day resting in BC, letting our bodies adjust to the higher altitudes. Base camp is simple, but is an important step in acclimatization before we continue higher. Todays rest day is a great opportunity to start organizing gear
Day 7: Move to Advanced Base Camp
ABC is actually where we spend most of our time on Cho Oyu and our camp, perched in a glacial moraine at 18,530 feet/5,650 meters, is comfortable and sunny, and is the home of our full Alpenglow infrastructure – heated dining tents, fully stocked kitchen, heated communications and hangout tent, internet access, and much more.
Day 8/9: Rest in ABC
Situated at 18,700’, we’ll spend two days resting in Advanced Base Camp. While small walks will allow your legs to stay limber, we spend these two days enjoying ourselves with the full infrastructure of ABC.
Day 10: Acclimatize to Camp 1
Today we’ll make our first steps onto Cho Oyu, climbing to C1 and touching 21,000’ before returning to ABC. This will let our bodies prepare for the altitude, while recovering in style at ABC. We’ll climb this part of the route a few times, and it will become familiar over the new few weeks.
Day 11: Rest in ABC
After yesterday’s push, we’ll spend the day resting and maximizing our acclimatization from the comforts of ABC.
Day 12: Move to C1
Today we’ll retrace our steps up to C1 and spend the night at 21,000’, getting our bodies used to the altitude and setting ourselves up to climb the ice cliff the following day.
Day 13: Climb Above Ice Cliff
Leaving C1, our goal will be to touch 23,000’ today. We’ll climb the steep ice cliff, the technical crux of our climb, and the continue on until we hit 7,000m. We’ll then return to C1 and spend a second night there.
Day 14: Descend to ABC
Today you’ll descend to ABC for a few days rest. Our acclimatization rotation complete after touching 23,000’, we’ll be ready for a push to the summit.
Day 15-18: Rest in ABC
With a rotation above 23,000’ under your belt, now is time to let your body recuperate. Alpenglow’s full infrastructure in ABC will be a welcomed luxury after nights spent on the mountain and 4 days of rest will do wonders for your energy when it comes time to push for the summit.
Day 19: Climb to C1
Your time has finally come! Your summit push has begun, and for the third time you’ll be headed from ABC up to C1. By now, your body has acclimatized and rested, and you’ve covered this terrain twice before. You’ll be moving faster and the excitement of your summit push will certainly help.
Day 20: Climb to C2
From C1 you will return to the ice cliff, climbing through the hardest part of the route, and on to C2. This time, you may don oxygen starting at C1 or the Ice Cliff, and will continue on oxygen to the summit. With each step you are closer to the goal, and by the time you crawl into your tent, you’ll have passed through the most technically challenging terrain on the mountain.
Day 21: Summit Bid
Today is the day you’ve been waiting for; Summit Day! This will be your longest day of the trip, but certainly the most rewarding. The climbing slows down significantly from 7,000m on, and will physically tax you, but the rewards of a 8,000m summit are indescribable. After climbing to the summit, you’ll descend to C1, and maybe on to ABC.
Day 22: Descend to ABC
Most climbers descend to C1 on their summit push before resting and returning to ABC the next day. This is the last bit of your push, and your exhausted body will be rewarded with the luxuries of ABC. While you will be tired, the feelings of accomplishment and rewards of a summit will make you feel oddly energetic.
Day 23-26: Extra Summit Days
Like all high altitude peaks, weather and other challenges can dramatically impact our timing and climbing schedule. We include an extra 4 days in the itinerary for unexpected changes or weather impacts. If these days are needed, the acclimatization will be adjusted accordingly. If not, you will be headed home early with an 8,000m peak to tell family and friends about!
Day 27: Celebrate and Pack in ABC
After a summit push there’s one important thing for you to do…celebrate! You’ll spend the day in ABC resting, recovering and reminiscing on the incredible climb that was just completed. And we’ll pack a little too.
Day 28: Descend to BC, Drive to Shigatse
We’ll pack our things and descend to the vehicles just down valley. With the massive form of Everest, Cho and the other Himalayan giants slowly fading in your rear view mirror, we’ll make the all day drive to Shigatse.
Day 29: Fly to Chengdu
Your morning flight to Chengdu arrives midday, most team members will choose to catch their international flights home that evening. You can also stay another night in Chengdu and fly home the next morning.

Cho Oyu 2024 Trip Packet

Alpenglow’s Himalaya Guides

Our Cho Oyu Guides

Get to know some of the guides you might be climbing Cho Oyu with.

Equipment

Cho Oyu Equipment

All the gear you need for your Cho Oyu expedition.

Download Equipment Link

Select a category

Hat
Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.
Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
Beanie
A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.
Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie
Neck Gaiter (Buff)
A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.
Recommended: Alpenglow Buff
Thick Neck Gaiter
A thick neck gaiter is great for those really cold days/nights where a thin buff might not cut it.
Recommended: Smartwool Thermal Merino Reversible Neck Gaiter
Balaclava
We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.
Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava
Sunglasses
Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).
Recommended: Vuarnet Ice Rounds
Goggles
These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired.
Recommended: Vuarnet Everest Goggles
Liner Gloves
These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.
Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Screentap Liners
Lightweight Gloves
All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.
Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Softshell Gloves
Midweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.
Recommend: Black Diamond Tour Gloves
or Black Diamond Terminator Gloves
Heavyweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, with a removable fleece liner (so you can take the liner out and dry it at night). These gloves are used at higher altitudes and are needed to keep your hands dry, and warm. Over the cuff style is desired.
Recommended: Black Diamond Guide Gloves
Big Mountain Mitts
These mittens should be warm and worn over either a liner glove or a windstopper glove. Down mittens are not required. You should choose a pair that allows you to still operate locking carabiners.
Recommended: Black Diamond Absolute Mitts
Liner Socks
A super-thin wicking sock that repels moisture. Liner socks help to reduce the likelihood of blisters. The socks should be thin wool, nylon, or Capilene®. NO COTTON
Recommended: Ice Breaker Merino Liner
Hiking Socks
Your everyday sock, good for day hikes, trekking, and in-town. It’s good to bring several pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Hiking Sock
Warm Socks
A wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. Bring a few pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Mountaineering Sock
Heated Socks
These are optional, but highly recommended. Bring 2 sets of batteries. Hotronics boot heaters are another option instead of heated socks, but socks are preferred by our guides.
Recommended: Sidas Sock Set V2 Uni S-1200
Hiking/Trail Runner Shoe
Light, breathable trail running shoe.
Recommended Mens: La Sportiva Bushido III
Recommended Womens: La Sportiva Womens Bushido III
Base Camp Boots
These snow boots are good for wearing around camp and should be comfortable when you slip into them after spending significant time in your mountain boots.
Recommended Men’s: Sorel Caribou Boot
Recommended Women’s: Sorel Caribou Boot
Mountaineering Boots (8,000m)
Fully insulated, double boots with an integrated gaiter. These boots are essential for 8000-meter peaks
Recommended: La Sportiva Olympus Mons
Down Booties
You’ll love having a warm, comfortable shoe to slip into when tent-bound. These are optional, but nice to have.
Recommended: Western Mountaineering Flash Down Booties
Lightweight Top
Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Sun Hoodie
Lightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Lightweight Baselayer Top
A long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Solution 150 Merino Crew
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Solution 150 Merino Crew
Mid-Weight Warm Layer Top
This mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Coefficient LT Quarter Zip Pullover
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Coefficient LT Quarter Zip Pullover
Soft Shell Jacket
More breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket
A simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Mid-Weight Synthetic Jacket
An active insulation layer that breathes and moves with you while keeping you warm.
Recommend: Black Diamond Vision Hybrid Hoody
Hard Shell Jacket
A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Stormline Stretch Rain Shell
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Stormline Stretch Shell
Down Parka
A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Down Suit
We HIGHLY recommend an 8000m insulated suit rather than a separate top and bottom.
Recommended Men’s: The North Face Down Suit
Recommended Women’s: The North Face Women’s Down Suit
Lightweight Baselayer Bottoms
Fitted and quick drying. This piece will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures. This can be 3/4 length bottoms if preferred.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Solution 150 Merino Baselayer
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution 150 Merino Baselayer
Mid-Weight Baselayer Bottoms
Fitted, mid-weight and quick drying, this baselayer (or midlayer) will be suitable for ski tours to alpine ascents.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Coefficient LT Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Coefficient LT Pants
Quick Dry Shorts
Throw these on under other layers for when the sun begins to beat, or you want to stretch / relax in Basecamp. Lightweight, durable and comfortable. NO COTTON.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
Hiking Pant
Lightweight, durable, quick-drying hiking pant that will be your day-to-day pant during the expedition
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Soft-Shell Alpine Pant
You will spend most of your days in these pants. They should be breathable + water-resistant.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Alpine Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Alpine Pants
Hard Shell Climbing Pant
Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Recon Stretch Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Recon Stretch Pants
Insulated Pant
Full-length side zippers are recommended, for throwing on top of all of your layers.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stance Belay Pants
120L Duffel Bags
(2) 120L Duffel Bags – Should be extremely durable and waterproof. You should feel comfortable leaving it in a puddle for several hours. Remember dry clothes are hot commodities in the mountains! Large enough to fit everything you own, plus what you anticipate buying. Two duffel bags are necessary to fit all your equipment for travel (we don’t recommend checking your backpack, best is to put all gear and backpack into your duffel). Once in country, you can consolidate your gear into one duffel and your backpack. It’s common to leave the second duffel with city clothes and other non-necessary items behind in a locked and secure location that your guide will arrange for you.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stonehauler 120L
Day Pack
Mid-size pack for city days and trekking. Streamlined, neat and lightweight (10-20 liters).
Recommended: Black Diamond Bullet 16 Pack
Climbing Pack: 50-60L
Internal frame pack that is between 50 and 60 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.
Recommended: Black Diamond Speed 50L Pack
Sleeping Bag (-30°)
Rated to -30º F to -40º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Many climbers also like a silk liner.
Granite Gear Compression Sack is desired.
Recommended: Eddie Bauer Kara Koram with Compression Sack
Inflatable Sleeping Pad
72-inch long inflatable pad required. Make sure you also purchase and bring a repair kit + bag for the sleeping pad.
Recommended: NeoAir® XLite™ NXT Sleeping Pad
Foam Sleeping Pad
Foldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.
Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad
Hydration System
Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube
Collapsible Bottle
Lightweight water container that is comfortable to carry inside the down suit to have warm fluids available easily during the coldest hours of the day. Choose one that has a system to keep the nozzle closed or locked.
Recommended: MTN STOW 350 mL Collapsible Bottle
Two 1L Nalgene Bottles
Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.
Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
Nalgene Insulated Sleeve
1x Insulation cover for Nalgene bottle.
Recommended: Nalgene 32oz Insulated Sleeve
Compressible 1-1.5L Bottle
Wide mouth compressible 1-1.5 liter bottle. Optional but strongly recommended. Often used as a designated pee bottle.
Recommended: Nalgene Flexible Cantene
Headlamps
Please bring two L.E.D. Headlamps. One will be intended as a lightweight backup. L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.
Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450
Backup Headlamp Recommended: Black Diamond Deploy 325
Trekking Poles
Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable. These are optional, but highly recommended.
Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles
Plastic Bowl, Mug, and Spoon
A lightweight and compact cookware setup. You’ll want a plastic bowl, mug and spoon.
Recommended Kit: MSR 2-Person Mess Kit
Thermos
A fully insulated thermos is optional but recommended for warm drinks that help with comfort, hydration, and safety on cold days in the mountains.
Recommended: Thermos STAINLESS KING™ DRINK BOTTLE 24OZ
Lighters
2 BIC Lighters
Helmet
An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Vapor Helmet
Mountaineering Harness
Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Couloir
Mountaineering Crampons
Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail and that they fit snugly on your ski or snowboard boots. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons
Ice Tool
Light ice tool with hammer attachment.
Recommended: Black Diamond Venom LT Tech Piolet
Belay Device
Light, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/grooves for skinny ropes.
Recommended: Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide Belay Device
Locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight locking carabiners are best.
Recommended: Black Diamond LiteForge Screwgate
Non-locking Carabiner (2)
Small, lightweight small carabiners are best, wire-gates are fine.
Recommended: Black Diamond LiteWire Carabiner
7mm Accessory Cord
20′ of high quality 7mm, 100% nylon accessory cord.
Recommended: Sterling 7mm Accessory Cord
Ascender
Should have a large opening for gloved hands, and an easy thumb trigger.
Recommended: Black Diamond Index Ascender
Avalanche Transceiver
A digital transceiver that is simple to use or that you are extremely comfortable using.
Recommended: Black Diamond Recon Avalanche X Beacon
Miscellaneous Items for 8,000m peaks
- Passport with Chinese Visa
- 2 luggage locks (TSA compliant)
- Non-cotton underwear
- Stuffsacks: assorted sizes, for organizing your clothes and gear
- Sunscreen: SPF 30 (or higher)
- Lip balm with SPF 15 (or higher)
- Personal first-aid kit (Band-aids, Ibuprofen, Cough Drops, Moleskin, Pepto-bismol, Imodium, Personal Medications, saline nasal spray)
- Toiletries
- Lightweight camp towel. For showering in bc and abc, easy to dry
- Crocs or sandals. A pair of lightweight sandals to shower and/or rest your feet in BC and ABC
- Pillow. This can also be an stuff sack filled with clothes, but there are nice and lightweight options in the market to ensure good rest while in camps.
- 3-4lbs of Snack food: A variety of your preferred snack food – some whole food, bars, gels (climbing food will be provided in BC and ABC, but we always recommend for climbers to bring some of their favorite and familiar snacks to complement the selection we bring.)
- Hand Warmers
- Face Mask
- Hand Sanitizer
- Knife
- Headphones
- Powerbank (6-10K mAh good for 2-3 phone charges, weighing under 8oz)
- Base Camp Clothes: Life in Base Camp & Advanced Base Camp needs to be as comfortable as possible, so we recommend members bring a change or two of comfortable clothes that can help in leisurely days to feel comfortable and keep your climbing clothes clean. Our guides usually bring a set of comfy jeans, a cotton hoodie and T-shirt.

FAQ’s

Questions about Cho Oyu

Below are some answers to commonly asked questions.

: Covid vaccinations are not required, but highly recommended.
: We require Rescue Insurance on all of our international expeditions. Rescue insurance will help cover costs in the event that you need to be rescued off the mountain (Ex: Helicopter/medical evacuation). Travel Insurance (which we strongly recommend) can cover issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance, like illness. We do recommend Global Rescue who does offer a Comprehensive Travel Protection option to your required Rescue (Evacuation) Insurance.
: Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. While Dr. Piris does not travel with our team on all expeditions, she is in 24 communication with our expedition leaders. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.
: While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
: Yes. The rental Hypoxico unit is included in the cost for the duration that is necessary for the expedition. We’ll arrange the rental for you and have it shipped right to your door. If you want/need to rent the unit longer, or have a separate unit rented due to travel etc, please reach out to our team and we’ll help work through the logistics with you.
: Yes. An eight-week rental of the Hypoxico Altitude Training Systems is included in the expedition price, and use of the system (or equivalent pre-acclimatization) is a requirement for joining our Rapid Ascent™ expeditions.
: THE COST OF YOUR TRIP INCLUDES YOUR LAND COSTS (EXCLUDING IN-TOWN MEALS). THIS INCLUDES:
All lodging according to itinerary, including double occupancy lodging while in town and group lodging in mountain huts.
Breakfasts in town, all meals while on the mountain
Group camping and climbing equipment
All park/climbing permits
Scheduled in-country transportation
Airport transfers
Certified guides
Covid testing arrangements for re-entry into home country (does not include cost of test)
THE COST OF YOUR TRIP DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Flights to/from the city where the expedition begins.
Additional nights in hotel outside of the itinerary
Airport taxes
Visas
In-town dinners
Immunizations
Tips for guides or local staff
Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance
Hospitalization or evacuation costs
Single supplement charges
Excess baggage charges
Alcohol
Other personal expenses
Antigen/PCR Covid test cost
The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Alpenglow Expeditions or its agents are not included.
: When an expedition is more than 90 days out, we require a 20% deposit to guarantee your reservation. Within 90 days we require full payment.
: Rapid Ascent™ is a unique program developed by Alpenglow Expeditions that combines the relatively new application of hypoxic training with precise logistics and small team sizes to greatly increase the chances of success while reducing the overall time spent away from home on an international expedition. Learn more about our Rapid Ascent approach HERE.
: Please click here to review our international cancellation policy.
: Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a Western-trained cook staff. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.
: Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high-altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.
: We use a Swiss weather forecasting company. Having a quality forecast for our 8,000m peaks maximizes both our safety and our summit success.
: We always consider customs. Custom trips make up more than 50% of our groups. Please reach out to learn more!
: In order to join our Cho Oyu expedition, climbers must have experience on an 7000 meter peak. Many climbers gain this experience by joining our expedition to Aconcagua. Climbers must have solid ice and snow climbing experience, including the use of ice axe, crampons and fixed rope systems.

Cho Oyu 2024 Trip Packet

Cho Oyu Testimonials

Alpenglow is top-notch.
“I’ve been fortunate to have climbed with many of the premier American guide companies in the Alps, Andes, and Himalaya – Alpenglow is top-notch among them. From the quality of the food and logistics to the knowledge of our guides, Topo and Chad, I felt confident throughout the climb that all I had to focus on was myself. It became a running joke at camp that our most novice Sherpa had ONLY six summits of Mt Everest – it was no surprise that our Sherpa team did a bulk of the rope fixing and were first to the summit. Shout out to my personal Sherpa Pasang who broke trail for hours on summit day so we could be first to the top.”
Ben V

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April 27, 2025 – June 01, 2025 36 Days Tibet

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Gasherbrum II Expedition
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Makalu Expedition
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Apr 21, 2024 – May 25, 2024 35 Days Nepal

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Ama Dablam Expedition
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Vinson Massif Expedition
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More Expeditions

Stories

Keep Reading about Cho Oyu

All Stories

A Game of Patience: Waiting for a Window on Cho Oyu
In 2024, after a five-year hiatus, Alpenglow Expeditions returned to Cho Oyu with a determined team—and despite a season marked by unpredictable weather, we secured a 100% summit success rate. Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest peak in the world, hasn’t seen us since 2019, but this year we were ready to face whatever the mountain threw at us. And it delivered.
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Cho Oyu or Manaslu For Your First 8000er?: Why Cho Oyu is the Safer Bet
When considering safety margins on the largest high-altitude climbs in the world, many climbers look towards Cho Oyu and Manaslu as two relatively “safe” 8000-meter peaks. However, Alpenglow Expeditions chooses only to guide Cho Oyu, because we view it as an objectively much safer option compared to Manaslu. Here’s why:
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How Technical is Cho Oyu?
Climbing Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world at 26,906′/8,201m, presents a unique blend of adventure and technical skill, making it a perfect first 8000m peak experience. Aspiring mountaineers often wonder about the difficulty level and technical requirements of Cho Oyu. Let’s delve into the intricacies of tackling Cho Oyu’s formidable terrain.
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The Practical Path: Climb Cho Oyu Before Everest
For ambitious mountaineers eyeing the world’s tallest peaks, the decision to tackle Everest is a monumental one. At Alpenglow Expeditions, we require that our Everest team members have prior experience on at least one 8,000-meter peak before joining an Everest expedition, and we almost always recommend Cho Oyu as a stepping stone. Here’s why climbing Cho Oyu first makes practical sense.
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Setting the Stage for Everest: Cho Oyu, 1952
In the storied world of Himalayan mountaineering, the 1952 British Expedition on Cho Oyu stands as a testament to the grit, determination, and pioneering spirit of the climbers of that era. Led by renowned mountaineer Eric Shipton, the expedition aimed to reach the summit of Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest peak in the world, located on the Nepal-Tibet border.
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