Climb Cho Oyu Before Climbing Everest
When it comes to climbing Everest, experience matters. Not just general mountain experience, but specific, targeted exposure to what it actually feels like to live and perform above 7,000 meters. That’s why Adrian Ballinger—founder of Alpenglow Expeditions and veteran of 14 Everest seasons—encourages nearly every aspiring Everest climber to summit an 8,000-meter peak first.
And he’s got the numbers to back it up.
Over the years, Adrian has seen a consistent trend across dozens of Rapid Ascent expeditions: clients who’ve successfully climbed an 8,000-meter peak before Everest are dramatically more likely to summit Everest. It’s not just about altitude adaptation—it’s about dialing in systems, understanding what real fatigue feels like at high elevation, and building confidence on a serious expedition.
Why Cho Oyu Works
Our Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent expedition was built for exactly this reason. At 8,188 meters, Cho Oyu offers everything you need to prepare for Everest—extreme altitude, high camps, fixed ropes, glacier travel, and life above 7,000m—without some of the major objective hazards found on peaks Manaslu. Read here for more details comparing Manaslu and Cho Oyu, the two “beginner” 8000ers.
The route is less technical than Everest’s North Ridge, which allows climbers to focus on pacing, acclimatization, and dialing in their gear and nutrition systems. It also mirrors the same Rapid Ascent strategy we use on Everest: pre-acclimatization at home, efficient travel, and a tightly managed schedule that eliminates wasted time and energy on the mountain.
Confidence Built on Reality
Adrian isn’t guessing when he says this works—he’s basing it on decades of data. We’ve watched climbers succeed on Everest after building experience on Cho Oyu, and we’ve seen others struggle without that foundation. The difference shows up in performance, decision-making, and outcomes. Climbing Cho Oyu first doesn’t guarantee success on Everest, but statistically, it improves the odds in a big way.
Everest Isn’t the Place to Learn
If your goal is to climb Everest efficiently, safely, and successfully, it shouldn’t be your first high-altitude expedition. There’s just too much at stake. Cho Oyu gives you the chance to test everything—your gear, your fitness, your mental approach—at true expedition scale.
And when the mountain says it’s time to go, you’ll be ready.
Interested in using Cho Oyu as your Everest prep?
Check out our Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent Expedition to see why it’s the most effective training ground for 8,000-meter success.
Read more from Cho Oyu
Field Mag: Guide Adrian Ballinger on How Expedition Travel Changed the World
Alpenglow Expeditions’ founder shares archival photos and stories about near-death experiences on Everest, basecamp snacks, and the evolution of alpine guiding.Read the story
Wall Street Journal: The Tiny Western Town That’s Quietly Become the Coolest Place to Ski
Once a frontier town for loggers and cowboys, Truckee, near Lake Tahoe, has quickly grown into a hub of winter adventure—not to mention hip coffee shops and new restaurants.Read the story
Cho Oyu Expedition Route, Map & Itinerary
Read about how we climb Cho Oyu in just 28 days including our route, map, and detailed itinerary.Read the story
Cho Oyu or Manaslu For Your First 8000er?: Why Cho Oyu is the Safer Bet
When considering safety margins on the largest high-altitude climbs in the world, many climbers look towards Cho Oyu and Manaslu as two relatively “safe” 8000-meter peaks. However, Alpenglow Expeditions chooses only to guide Cho Oyu, because we view it as an objectively much safer option compared to Manaslu. Here’s why:Read the story
A Brief History of Cho Oyu
The recorded history of Cho Oyu dates back to the early 20th century when British surveyors first began mapping the region. However, it wasn’t until the mid-20th century that the mountain truly captured the attention of the international climbing community.Read the story
A Game of Patience: Waiting for a Window on Cho Oyu
In 2024, after a five-year hiatus, Alpenglow Expeditions returned to Cho Oyu with a determined team—and despite a season marked by unpredictable weather, we secured a 100% summit success rate. Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest peak in the world, hasn’t seen us since 2019, but this year we were ready to face whatever the mountain threw at us. And it delivered.Read the story
How Technical is Cho Oyu?
Climbing Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world at 26,906′/8,201m, presents a unique blend of adventure and technical skill, making it a perfect first 8000m peak experience. Aspiring mountaineers often wonder about the difficulty level and technical requirements of Cho Oyu. Let’s delve into the intricacies of tackling Cho Oyu’s formidable terrain.Read the story
Reaching New Heights: How You Can Climb Cho Oyu with the Right Preparation
On Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth-highest peak, climbers must battle frigid temperatures, unpredictable weather, and the physiological effects of high-altitude living. Success in this environment requires not just physical preparedness but also mental resilience, specialized gear, and the ability to adapt to rapidly changing conditions.Read the story
Comparing Acclimatization Approaches in the Andes, Himalaya, and Pamirs: How Alpenglow Expeditions Tailors Its Programs for Success
When it comes to climbing high-altitude peaks around the world, how you acclimatize can make or break an expedition. The Andes, Himalaya, and Pamir ranges each present unique challenges based on altitude, terrain, and logistics — and acclimatizing properly to these environments requires an approach that fits the mountain, not a one-size-fits-all plan.Read the story
Expeditions
- 63.0692° N, 151.0070° W
- 27.7172° N, 85.3240° E
- 30.5723° N, 104.0665° E
