A Game of Patience: Waiting for a Window on Cho Oyu
100% Summit Success on Cho Oyu: A Return After Four Years
In 2024, after a four-year hiatus, Alpenglow Expeditions returned to Cho Oyu with a determined team—and despite a season marked by unpredictable weather, we secured a 100% summit success rate. Cho Oyu, the sixth-highest peak in the world, hasn’t seen us since 2019, but this year we were ready to face whatever the mountain threw at us. And it delivered.
A rare late-season storm swept across the Himalayas, dumping significant amounts of snow and challenging even the most seasoned climbers and professional guides. But with flexibility, collaboration, and patience, we persevered, reminding us again that the mountain decides when, and if, the summit is possible.
Adapting to a Late-Season Storm
As we arrived on Cho Oyu, it quickly became clear that this wouldn’t be a typical expedition. An unusual late-season storm rolled in, covering the route in heavy snow and forcing all teams on the mountain to re-evaluate their plans. Rather than push blindly forward or call it quits, we made the decision to extend our expedition, allowing us to stay flexible and wait for the right weather window. This extra time gave us the opportunity to stay safe, acclimatize properly, and make a calculated move toward the summit when conditions allowed.
That patience paid off. When the skies cleared, we were ready to go—but the climb was still far from straightforward. This was a season where the mountain showed its teeth, reminding everyone that a summit is never guaranteed.
Collaboration: Fixing the Route to the Summit
This year, success was a team effort that extended beyond just our own climbers and guides. The challenging conditions required a collective approach, with different teams’ guides and Sherpa working together to fix the route to the summit and ensure that all teams had the safest possible path forward. Fixing ropes, clearing snow, and establishing camps took time and effort, but it was a necessary part of making the summit a reality. We’re proud to say that Ngima Tenzing Sherpa of Alpenglow Expeditions was a part of the rope-fixing team.
While each step forward required careful coordination and teamwork, the most important factor was patience—knowing when to push and when to wait.
Reaching the Summit: The Mountain Decides
When the time came to make our summit push, the teamwork, collaboration, and extended schedule paid off. We led our clients safely to the top, with everyone reaching the summit in good form. The mountain, after weeks of harsh weather, finally granted us the opportunity to stand on top. But, as always, it was Cho Oyu that dictated when the summit was possible—not us.
In the end, this season was a powerful reminder of why we climb. It’s not about conquering anything—it’s about respecting the conditions, working together, and being patient. The mountain decides who reaches the top and when. This year, we were fortunate that Cho Oyu allowed us to experience its summit once again.
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Expeditions
- 28.099722°N , 86.66°E
- 27.7172° N, 85.3240° E
- 30.5723° N, 104.0665° E
- 32.653179° S, 70.010868° W
- 63.0692° N, 151.0070° W
- 39.34° N, 72.88° E
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