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A Guide’s Perspective: Roberto ‘Tico’ Morales Looks Ahead to Everest’s North Col

A photographer stands on a ridge with a large Himalayan mountain behind him.
A guide takes a selfie below the summit of Ama Dablam
A map outlining the climbing route to the summit of Mt. Everest from the North Side in Tibet.

Heading towards the North Col of Mount Everest is no ordinary endeavor. It’s a blend of excitement, gratitude, and anticipation for Alpenglow guide Roberto ‘Tico’ Morales. With over two decades of guiding under his belt, Tico reflects on the essence of his profession, expressing, “As a guide, one of the most beautiful parts of our job is to explore new places, new cultures, new mountains, and new people.”

For Tico, this opportunity is more than just another expedition; it’s a rendezvous with the world’s highest peak. Mincing no words, he muses: “Everest is Everest.” It hardly needs further explanation. Despite not aiming for the summit, he recognizes the significance of the North Col. It’s not merely a pass but a pivotal point on the way to Everest’s zenith: “Even though we aren’t going to the top of something,” he says, “this isn’t just a random col. This is climbing at 7,000m on the way to the summit of Everest, so I’m sure it’s going to be pretty sick.”

This year, we’re incredibly excited to return to the tallest mountain in the world with an all-star team, with over 100 collective summits of Everest spread across the guides, climbers, and Sherpa. Tico eagerly anticipates the collaboration with guides like Alpenglow founder Adrian Ballinger and guide Carla Perez. Adrian has reached the summit of Everest eight times and once without supplemental oxygen, and Carla has also summited without oxygen. Together, they also topped out on K2, the second-tallest mountain in the world, without supplemental oxygen.

Moreover, reconnecting with past climbing companions on the team, now friends, adds a layer of warmth to the expedition. Sharing the trail with familiar faces amplifies the sense of trust and companionship to their shared adventure. “Same with the Sherpa team too,” he inserts. “it’s amazing to work with them. They’re incredibly nice and hardworking people, and they take so much pressure off our hands.”

“Really, I’m just excited to learn as much as I can. I couldn’t ask for a better team. I’m sure I’ll learn a lot and continue on the path of 8000m peaks, and hopefully summit one of them soon.”

Interested in heading to Everest or climbing with Tico? He’s been guiding in the Andes and more recently across the world for over twenty years. Schedule a call with us HERE to chat with our staff about which of our expeditions is right for you.

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