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It’s Still Summit Season!

 

Yesterday the Aconcagua Rapid Ascent team hiked up to Cerro Colorado (15,500′ / 4724m) just behind Base Camp. They enjoyed great views of the Polish Glacier and the South Face as well. The team is moving to C1 (Camp 1) today and they plan to summit on Tuesday, weather permitting. The team members all feel good and strong for their summit push of Aconcagua (22,841′ / 6962m).

Despite the strong winds and cold temps, the Volcanoes of Mexico Climbing School team summited Iztaccihuatl (17,154′ / 5229m) yesterday. The team is currently in the town of Puebla and enjoying a …

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International December Expeditions

Alpenglow Expeditions currently has three international expeditions taking place. We have one Rapid Ascent expedition on Aconcagua near Mendoza, Argentina (14 days), and also two climbing schools, one in Mexico (9 days) and one in Ecuador (9 days + optional extension).

The Aconcagua Rapid Ascent team arrived safely and they are already enjoying the good food of Argentina. Everyone is feeling good and looking forward to getting higher in the mountains. The team got their permits, and left Mendoza for the town of Los Penitentes (8,540′ / 2600m). Los Penitentes sits at the entrance to the valleys leading into …

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Why Choose Rapid Ascent?

RAPID ASCENT 

Rapid Ascent is a unique program developed by Alpenglow Expeditions that combines the relatively new application of hypoxic training with precise logistics and small team sizes. These components greatly increase the chance of success while reducing the overall time spent away from home on an international expedition.

The process begins at home, where you utilize a hypoxic tent while sleeping. These tents are provided by Alpenglow Expeditions and the rental is included within the expedition price. Slowly over a few weeks time, and with remote observation from our expedition doctor Monica Piris, you’ll change the oxygen levels of …

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Successful Ama Dablam Summit Expedition

Text and photos: Chad Peele

“Omg!..we had an amazing summit push with incredible weather! In clear sunny skies we moved thru 90% of the technical terrain climbing thru rock snow and ice. With the help of our talented sherpa climbing team we established high camp at 2.7 and had a well deserved rest.

In the cold darkness the following morning, we downed some coffee and a quick hot breakfast and suited up for our final push to the summit. The route was challenging with several vertical snow and ice pitches but things eased off as we approached the final snow headwall. …

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Tibet’s New Mountaineering Center

Photos: Cory Richards

Recently we chatted with Alpenglow Expeditions founder/owner, Adrian Ballinger. Earlier this month he posted some exciting news on his social media channels, next year Tibet will begin construction on a mountaineering center in the Qomolangma (Mount Everest) region. We asked Adrian to explain why this is so exciting and who will benefit from the mountaineering center. Here are some of the highlights of our conversation:

What are the biggest benefits of this center?
AB: “1. Way above and beyond anything else – helicopter rescue. Rescue services for Alpenglow teams are already quite good on the North Side of Everest (thanks to …

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Ama Dablam Expedition Update

Photos: Chad Peele

 

 

 

 

 

 

All is good! Our Ama Dablam expedition team is currently at Camp 1  (18,370′ / 5600m), they will touch Camp 2 (19,350′ / 5900m) tomorrow and sleep at Camp 1 (C1) again tomorrow night. And then back to base camp on Tuesday. They’ve had a good couple of days!

Weather forecast looks good. Also they said the route looks great and is in incredible shape. Lead guide, Chad Peele, said it’s the best he’s seen it…including the anchors, ropes and snow/rock conditions.

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What is a Puja Ceremony?

Puja Ceremony on Ama Dablam

“A puja is a ceremony in which meditational prayers are offered to the Buddhas and holy beings to request their blessings or help. Traditionally in a monastery monks and nuns perform prayers for the long life, health and success of their teachers, friends, benefactors, all living beings, and for world peace. Pujas are performed to avert or clear three kinds of obstacles: worldly, inner and secret obstacles; conditions which prevent us from achieving our worldly and spiritual goals.” [1]

Shown here, the Alpenglow team celebrating yesterday on Ama Dablam and also last month on Cho …

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Ama Dablam Expedition Team in Base Camp

Text and photos: Chad Peele

 

Day 10: “Team hiked up to Yak Camp (17,000′ / 5182m) today depositing a small amount of high camp/summit gear. While hiking up in the sunshine we got word that the ropes had been finally fixed to the summit! This is great news and perfect timing for our group as there are quite a few teams that have been sitting and waiting for the route to be completed.

Basically, I’m all about letting the masses move forward, clear the ropes and clean the route! The weather pattern has been glorious in the mornings …

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Weekend Update From Expedition Team in Nepal

Text and photos: Chad Peele

Day 6: “Today we woke to our first blue bird day and saw the full majesty of this valley for the first time. After apple pancakes (it’s become a team favorite!) and French pressed coffee we stripped down to shorts and a single layer on top and began our sunny trek into the valley. Right out of the gate, the views were stunning and nonstop as we traversed a rolling trail to Mong-La for a break, photos and tea.

After this well-deserved break we dropped a lot of elevation only to hike back up into Phortse…yeah, …

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Expedition Team Explores Namche Bazaar

Text and photos: Chad Peele

 

” Today after omelettes, french press coffee and apple pancakes, the team made quick work of the steep hike into Namche Bazaar crushing all 4 miles and 2k elevation in under 4 hours! #strong!
The afternoon was filled with hot showers, relaxation and enjoying the magnificent views of this incredible village. 

 

 

Tomorrow we plan on doing a day hike to hopefully get some better views of the greater peaks of the Himalayas including Everest! After that we plan on finishing our day with more culture and …

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