Ama Dablam Route
Climbing Ama Dablam Is The Ideal Stepping Stone to Bigger Peaks
This 14-day Rapid Ascent™ expedition is in many ways the culmination of Alpenglow Expeditions’ teaching system and mission. Summiting Ama Dablam will be a success you have truly earned, and can be, if you choose, an ideal stepping stone to more independent expeditions on big Himalayan peaks.
The Route on Ama Dablam: Southwest Ridge
On our Ama Dablam expedition we climb the route of the mountain’s first ascent, the Southwest Ridge. First climbed in 1961, the route is incredibly varied. It offers every type of climbing along the way to the summit, and from Camp 1 the route is continuously exposed and technical.
Ama Dablam: Base Camp to Camp 1
From Ama Dablam Base Camp to Camp 1, we will climb up a long moderate morainal ridge, enjoying excellent views of our entire route.
Ama Dablam: Camp 1 to Camp 2
From Camp 1 to 2 we encounter the route’s crux rock climbing sections. There are interesting technical traverses combined with countless easy fifth class moves and some short harder pitches of up to 5.8 climbing. On all of this climbing, you will be truly climbing each move, using fixed ropes only to protect yourself. This is not a route of jug-hauling!
Ama Dablam: Camp 2 to Camp 2.7
Camp 2 to 2.7 offers the route’s most challenging ice climbing, with sustained pitches of steep ice and mixed terrain. The final section into Camp 2.7 is the famed mushroom ridge, a mostly horizontal traverse across cornices tenuously stuck to a knife-edge ridge.
Ama Dablam Summit
From Camp 2.7 to the summit, the route lessons slightly in technical difficulty, climbing straightforward 50-70 degree ice and snow around the hanging glacier (the Dablam) and up the summit face.
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Keep reading about Ama Dablam
Is Ama Dablam Your Next Step?
In the heart of the Everest region of Nepal is Ama Dablam, one of the Khumbu’s most iconic peaks. Its name translates to “Mother’s Necklace,” named after the large hanging serac adjacent to the Southwest Ridge. But beyond its aesthetic allure, to climb Ama Dablam is a challenging undertaking. For those who are looking for a more technical challenge and an all-encompassing Himalayan experience, it presents an enticing question: Is Ama Dablam the next step for you?Read the story
Climbing Ama Dablam: Alpenglow’s Old Reliable
As one of the most distinct and recognizable peaks of the Khumbu region, Ama Dablam has time and again proved to be our favorite and most consistent climb in Nepal. At Alpenglow Expeditions, our Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent expedition is where every piece of our mission and vision comes together: consistency, efficiency, and unparalleled adventure.Read the story
The Allure of Ama Dablam
It’s fair to say that Ama Dablam might be the most visually recognizable mountain in the world. There’s simply no other peak that stands so distinctly apart from its surrounding landscape, despite the fact that it’s backdropped by Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. With its distinctive pyramid-shaped summit adorned with hanging glaciers and sheer rock faces, Ama Dablam is an iconic peak that has captured the imagination of mountaineers for decades.Read the story
Ama Dablam: Climb the Mother’s Necklace with Alpenglow Expeditions
Our Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent program has made this elusive summit possible in a blistering 14-day roundtrip, half the time of a normal expedition.Read the story
Ama Dablam FAQ’s
Want to climb Ama Dablam in just 14 days with our certified guides? Here are our frequently asked questions about climbing Ama Dablam.Read the story