Climbing Ama Dablam Is The Ideal Stepping Stone to Bigger Peaks
This 14-day Rapid Ascent™ expedition is in many ways the culmination of Alpenglow Expeditions’ teaching system and mission. Summiting Ama Dablam will be a success you have truly earned, and can be, if you choose, an ideal stepping stone to more independent expeditions on big Himalayan peaks.
The Route on Ama Dablam: Southwest Ridge
On our Ama Dablam expedition we climb the route of the mountain’s first ascent, the Southwest Ridge. First climbed in 1961, the route is incredibly varied. It offers every type of climbing along the way to the summit, and from Camp 1 the route is continuously exposed and technical.
Ama Dablam: Base Camp to Camp 1
From Ama Dablam Base Camp to Camp 1, we will climb up a long moderate morainal ridge, enjoying excellent views of our entire route.
Ama Dablam: Camp 1 to Camp 2
From Camp 1 to 2 we encounter the route’s crux rock climbing sections. There are interesting technical traverses combined with countless easy fifth class moves and some short harder pitches of up to 5.8 climbing. On all of this climbing, you will be truly climbing each move, using fixed ropes only to protect yourself. This is not a route of jug-hauling!
Ama Dablam: Camp 2 to Camp 2.7
Camp 2 to 2.7 offers the route’s most challenging ice climbing, with sustained pitches of steep ice and mixed terrain. The final section into Camp 2.7 is the famed mushroom ridge, a mostly horizontal traverse across cornices tenuously stuck to a knife-edge ridge.
Ama Dablam Summit
From Camp 2.7 to the summit, the route lessons slightly in technical difficulty, climbing straightforward 50-70 degree ice and snow around the hanging glacier (the Dablam) and up the summit face.