Mount Shasta 2-Day Avalanche Gulch Climb
Climb Shasta in 2 Days via Avalanche Gulch
- May 11, 2024 – May 12, 2024
- May 25, 2024 – May 26, 2024
- Jun 22, 2024 – Jun 23, 2024
The Alpenglow Experience is Different
Our ApproachThis is a 2-day Shasta climbing trip that will focus on a quick summit of Mount Shasta – a magnificent stratovolcano at the southern end of the Cascade Range – via the famous Avalanche Gulch route.
The first day on Mount Shasta will involve climbing up to a high camp around 9,500 ft elevation where you will make camp for the night, go over basic snow climbing techniques, and plan for the next morning’s summit. An alpine start on day 2 will get you to the top of Mount Shasta by late morning and back to the trailhead by early evening. This is an aggressive itinerary and proper training is essential to success! If you’re interested in a longer itinerary, try our 3 Day West Face Climbing Trip.
Avalanche Gulch is our first choice for this itinerary. However, depending on conditions, our guides will occasionally select a different route to accomplish the same goals. If you are interested in modifying this trip with a ski descent, check out our ski options!
WHO CAN PARTICIPATE:
This quick summit itinerary is perfect for climbers with excellent physical fitness and a tight schedule. Because this is a fast paced summit of Mount Shasta, we recommend that participants have prior mountaineering experience, but it is not required. There will be time set aside to introduce basic snow and ice climbing skills. Previous overnight backpacking experience is required.
WHAT’S INCLUDED ON OUR MOUNT SHASTA CLIMB VIA AVALANCHE:
– Food on Mount Shasta
– Group Gear: Tents, Camp Kitchen, etc. (Does not include bowl, fork, spoon, sleeping bag, or sleeping pad)
– Ropes and other Technical Equipment (Does not include mountaineering boots)
– Wilderness Permits
– Guide Fees
THE ALPENGLOW DIFFERENCE
As a Tahoe-based mountain guide company with countless expeditions to high-altitude peaks around the world over the last 15 years, we bring a wealth of experience and knowledge to our beloved “home mountain,” Mount Shasta. Our teaching and guiding philosophy has been honed from the flanks of the Himalayan giants to the technical peaks of Peru, and we are beyond excited to be able to bring our program to this fantastic mountain. In addition to our international expedition roots, we are accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), being one of the very few guide services in the region to hold such a high standard. Each of our guides is trained by the AMGA in the terrain in which they operate, and the program is supervised by internationally licensed IFMGA mountain guides. This high standard, along with our many years of experience, translates to a fantastic mountain adventure!
Technical
Fitness
- Day 1
- Ascend to Camp
8:00am: Meet and Greet in Town
9:30am: Depart for Bunny Flat trailhead (6,880 ft)
11:00am-12:00pm: Lunch break at historic Horse Camp (7,880 ft)
3:00pm: Arrive at Camp (9,500 ft) and set up camp
4:00pm – 5:00pm: Climbing training
5:30pm:-7:30pm Dinner, Climb briefing, pack
8:00pm: Bed - Day 2
- Summit Attempt
Alpine start (1:00am-3:00am, conditions dependent)
Turnaround time (10:00am-12:00pm, conditions dependent)
3:00pm: Depart from Helen Lake for Trailhead
4:30pm-5:30pm: Arrive at Trailhead
Our Mount Shasta Guides
Mount Shasta Avalanche Gulch Questions
While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
Please click here to review our domestic cancellation policy
Yes! A large portion of our business is designed around custom adventures. Booking a private day gives you the freedom to tailor the day around your goals, pace, and group size.
Mount Shasta Avalanche Gulch Equipment List
- Hat
Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.
Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
- Beanie
A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.
Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie
- Balaclava
We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.
Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava
- Neck Gaiter (Buff)
A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.
Recommended: Alpenglow Buff
- Sunglasses
Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).
Recommended: Vaurnet Ice Rounds
- Goggles
These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired.
Recommended: Vuarnet Everest Goggles
- Liner Gloves
These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.
Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Wooltech Gloves
- Lightweight Gloves
All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.
Recommended: Black Diamond Tour Gloves
- Midweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.
Recommend: Black Diamond Mission MX Gloves
- Ski Socks
Ski socks will keep your feet warm and dry during long tours in the mountains.
Recommended: Smartwool
- Hiking Shoes
These light to mid-weight shoes are for everyday use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow.
Recommended: La Sportiva TX Guide
- Mountaineering Boot (4,000m)
Should be warm single boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon, or double boots if you have very cold feet. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8 of an inch when walking.
Recommended Early Season (April-June): La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX
Recommended Late Season (July-August): La Sportiva Trango Tech GTX
- Lightweight Top
Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
- Sun Hoodie
Lightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
- Long Sleeve Base Layer
A long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient Crew
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Crew
- Mid-Weight Warm Layer
A polar guard or fleece jacket. This mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Quarter Zip
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Quarter Zip
- Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket
A simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
- Soft Shell Jacket
More breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
- Hard Shell Jacket
A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell
- Down Parka
A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
- Base Layer Bottoms
Fitted and quick drying. This piece will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants
- Soft-Shell Alpine Pant
You will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water-resistant.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Men’s Dawn Patrol Pants
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Women’s Dawn Patrol Pants
- Hard Shell Climbing Pant
Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Recon Stretch Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Recon Stretch Pants
- Helmet
An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Vision Helmet – MIPS
- Mountaineering Harness
Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Couloir
- Mountaineering Crampons
Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail and that they fit snugly on your ski or snowboard boots. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons
- General Mountaineering Axe
One non-technical climbing axe. The tool should be approx. 55cm- 65cm long and comfortable to hold. *Ice axes are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe
- Technical Kit
While the technical equipment needed for a specific objective and season varies, this basic kit is a great baseline. Your guide will bring gear for you to use during your course, but participants are encouraged to bring some or all of this if you own it or are interested in purchasing it.
1 Cordalette (6mm x 5m/16.4′)
4 locking carabiners
2 non-locking carabiners
1 double-length Dyneema sling
Small prusik loop (6mm x 112cm/44″)
Auto-blocking belay device (eg. ATC guide)
Micro Traxion or similar - Sleeping Bag (15º)
Rated to 15º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Granite Gear Compression Sack is desired.
Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Phantom 15
- Foam Sleeping Pad
Foldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.
Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad
- Climbing Pack: 60-75L
Internal frame pack that is between 60 and 75 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.
Recommended: Black Diamond Mission 75
- Trekking Poles
Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable.
Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles
- Headlamps
Please bring two L.E.D. Headlamps. One will be intended as a lightweight backup. L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.
Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450
Backup Headlamp Recommended: Black Diamond Deploy 325
- Two 1L Nalgene Bottles
Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.
Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
- Hydration System
Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube
I’d give them 7 stars if I could!
“Super happy with our Mt. Shasta 3-Day climb guided by Tim Mincey from Alpenglow. The Alpenglow team was very helpful and responsive in getting our trip planned and booked. Tim did a superb job not only coaching us on mountaineering basics and safety, but also making adjustments to our plan based on day-to-day weather. Everyone in our climbing party was thinking about what next adventure we can book with Alpenglow before we even got off the mountain. I’d give them 7 stars if I could!”
Tom M.
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