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Ama Dablam

30 Days in Nepal / (Skill level: Advanced)

Price per person

$18,550.00
  • Next Available: Oct 07, 2023 - Nov 05, 2023
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About this trip

This expedition includes an experienced Western guide. Ama Dablam is an ideal stepping stone to more independent expeditions on big Himalayan peaks. You'll climb the route of the mountain’s first ascent, the Southwest Ridge and be supported by the best Sherpa staff in the Khumbu. Climber to guide ratio is 4:1, and our climber to sherpa ratio is 1:1.

Overview

  • skill level

    Advanced

  • Duration

    30 Days

No mountain in the world captures alpine climbers’ imaginations like 22,525 foot (6,866 meter) Ama Dablam. It stands alone in the Solu Khumbu (Everest) valley, towering almost 10,000 feet (3,050 meters) over the famous Sherpa villages of Thyangboche and Pangboche. With no easy route to its summit, climbing Ama Dablam is reserved for dedicated alpinists, who have built skills and experience in much more than simply high altitude walking. The successful climber will have solid multi-pitch climbing experience on rock and ice, and be comfortable climbing technical terrain with a pack on, taking care of themselves in very high alpine camps, and spending days at a time in exposed terrain.

The Culmination of our Mission

This expedition is in many ways the culmination of Alpenglow Expeditions’ teaching system and mission. On Ama Dablam our expectation is that each climber takes real responsibility for their own success and that of their teammates. Members of the team will assist in setting camps, carrying loads, cooking, and melting snow in high camps. Summiting the peak will be a success you have truly earned, and can be, if you choose, an ideal stepping stone to more independent expeditions on big Himalayan peaks.

Climb the Southwest Ridge

On our expedition we climb the route of the mountain’s first ascent, the Southwest Ridge. First climbed in 1961, the route is incredibly varied. It offers every type of climbing along the way to the summit, and from Camp 1 up is always exposed and technical.

From Base Camp to Camp 1, we will climb up a long moderate morainal ridge, enjoying excellent views of our entire route.

From Camp 1 to 2 we encounter the route’s crux rock climbing sections. There are interesting technical traverses combined with countless easy fifth class moves and some short harder pitches of up to 5.8 climbing. On all of this climbing, you will be truly climbing each move, using fixed ropes only to protect yourself. This is not a route of jug-hauling!

Camp 2 to 2.7 offers the route’s most challenging ice climbing, with sustained pitches of steep ice and mixed terrain. The final section into Camp 2.7 is the famed mushroom ridge, a mostly horizontal traverse across cornices tenuously stuck to a knife-edge ridge.

From Camp 2.7 to the summit, the route lessons slightly in technical difficulty, climbing straightforward 50-70 degree ice and snow around the hanging glacier (the Dablam) and up the summit face.

A True Test of Your Skills

An expedition to Ama Dablam will test all of your mountaineering skills, and a summit is one to be very proud of. Climbing this peak also provides a taste of true Himalayan expedition life. You will be supported by the best Sherpa staff in the Khumbu. After an 8-day trek through the villages of the Everest Valley, we will have a full Puja blessing ceremony, and then settle into life in a very comfortable basecamp, complete with cook, heated dining tent, individual sleeping tents, and a private bathroom tent with shower. We have found that these amenities are essential in having a well-rested and strong team of climbers during our summit push. We pride ourselves in our record of safety and success. Beware of operators who offer Ama Dablam climbs with less support!

Certified Guides

Our Ama Dablam expedition will be guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s AMGA/IFMGA certified lead guides. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) certification is the highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. Our guides have been climbing in Nepal for more than a decade, and have led dozens of expeditions to Himalayan peaks (including 9 successful summits of Ama Dablam). Their knowledge of Sherpa culture as well as the mountains, combined with their passion for teaching mountaineering skills to others, guarantees that your experience will be one to remember.

4:1 Guide Ratio

Our climber to guide ratio is 4:1, and our climber to sherpa ratio is 1:1. This ensures that we have unparalleled support carrying loads, fixing ropes, and building camps. The guides climb with the members every day throughout the season. The sherpa also spend lots of time climbing with us, and on summit day will be with their climbing member at all times.

All of our guides and sherpa have summited Ama Dablam and other Himalayan peaks countless times. This maximizes your safety and your opportunity to climb Ama Dablam successfully.

We combine our western guides’ and sherpa’s experience with the local expertise of one of Nepal’s best logistics operators, and the services of our good friend and local sirdar/guide, Dorji Sonam Sherpa. Dorji hails from the beautiful town of Phortse, and along with at least 6 ascents of Ama Dablam, he has summited Everest 15 times. His management of our local staff, knowledge of the Khumbu, and friendly personality will be essential in ensuring that you stay healthy, strong, and able to enjoy each component of this experience.

Preparation

  • Technical Experience

    Climbers should have experience multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), be comfortable following grade 4 ice climbs, 5.9 rock climbs, and have climbed at altitude (over 18,000 feet).

  • Altitude Experience

    It is required that climbers have prior experience at altitudes up to 18,000'.

  • Fitness

    Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.

  • Download Trip Details

    • Day 1 — Arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal (4,600 feet / 1,400 meters)

      We transfer to our hotel and begin the process of getting over jetlag. (Monday).

    • Day 2 — Explore Kathmandu

      Today we explore some of Kathmandu's most famous sites. These include Swyambunath (the Monkey Temple), Pashupati (Nepal's largest Hindu temple), Boudanath (Kathmandu's most important Buddhist temple) and the old city's original central square, Durbar. We also have our first team meeting and organize our bags for the trek.

    • Day 3 — Fly Kathmandu (4,600 feet / 1,400 meters) to Lukla (9,000 feet / 2,743 meters)

      Trek Lukla to Monjo (9,300 feet / 2,835 meters), 4-5 hours. One of the most beautiful and memorable mountain flights in the world, our 45-minute flight takes us from Kathmandu to Lukla, the town where we begin our trek to base camp. After organizing our yaks and porters we begin our trek to base camp. After organizing our yaks and porters we begin our hike to the town of Monjo. The trail is excellent, and after descending to the town of Phakding, it climbs easily from the river and across our first suspension bridges up to our lodge in Monjo.

    • Day 4 — Trek Monjo (9,300 feet / 2,835 meters) to Namche Bazaar (11,300 feet / 3,444 meters), 3-4 hours.

      The walk begins with a couple of thrilling suspension bridges and wanders along the banks of the raging Dudh Khosi River, before climbing steeply up a 2,000 foot (610 meter) hill into Namche Bazaar. This hill is the first of our challenging climbs. Along the way we are rewarded with our first views of Mt. Everest, and plenty of well-built stone terraces to stop and rest. We have lunch in Namche Bazaar, and spend the afternoon exploring the vibrant town. Namche is the most important town in the Khumbu Valley, and is filled with fun shops, great bakeries, and colorful winding streets. We also visit the local monastery and the Sherpa Museum of Culture and Himalayan Climbing History. The museum’s exhibits chronicling sherpa climbing history are not to be missed.

    • Day 5 — Trek Namche Bazaar (11,300 feet/3,444 meters) to Khumjung (12,400 feet/3,790 meters), 1 hour.

      For acclimatization purposes we spend a second night near Namche Bazaar. After a relaxing morning exploring town and enjoying our first stunning views of Ama Dablam from a viewpoint above town, we have lunch and then take a one-hour walk to Khumjung and our sirdar’s (lead sherpa’s) home. We spend the night with Phurba Tashi and his family in his comfortable lodge, and possibly visit the Hillary School in Khumjung, and the Khunde hospital, both projects of Sir Edmund Hillary, and significant centers of Sherpa life.

    • Day 6 — Trek Khumjung (12,400 feet/3,790 meters) to Phortse (12,450 feet/3,800 meters), 3 hours.

      Phortse is home to most of our sherpa team. It is an incredible mountain town perched on the walls of a massive river valley and sees almost no Western visitors. To get there we set off from Khumjung on small trails, featuring a long stone staircase through vertical rock cliffs that ends at the Mong La, a high pass with striking 360 degree views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kantegri. From the pass we descend to the river, and then climb easily to Phortse, arriving in time for lunch. We spend the afternoon visiting our sherpa team in their homes, drinking tea and tasting the locally made yak yogurt.

    • Day 7 — Trek Phortse (12,450 feet/3,800 meters) to Dingboche (14,800 feet/4,530 meters), 5-7 hours

      We begin today’s trek far from other trekkers on the trail from Phortse to upper Pangboche. In Pangboche we visit the oldest monastery and temple in the region and explore its paintings and statues. If we are fortunate, we may also receive blessings from the local lama. Once finished, we continue hiking to Dingboche, a small seasonal town perched at the base of Lhotse’s South Face that has incredible views of Ama Dablam’s North Ridge.

    • Day 8 — Climb of Chukkung Ri (17,600 feet/5,364 meters), 6-8 hours round-trip.

      Chukkung Ri is not glaciated, but provides an excellent way for us to gain additional acclimatization, as well as stunning views of Lhotse’s South Face and the huge glaciers filling the Amphu Valley. In the afternoon we return to our lodge in Dingboche in time for a late lunch and some time relaxing in the sun. As needed, this day also makes for a great rest and recuperation day.

    • Day 9 — Trek Dingboche (14,800 feet/4,530 meters) to Ama Dablam Base Camp (15,000 feet/4,570 meters), 4-5 hours

      Today we split with our support trek group. As they head up the valley to Lobuche, we choose a backcountry route away from the tourist trail, traveling through tiny yak herder settlements and over countless moraines as we circle around the base of Ama Dablam. Base camp sits in a beautiful grassy valley immediately at the base of the mountain’s West Face, and we arrive there in time for lunch. After lunch we spend the afternoon settling into base camp and getting our gear organized.

    • Day 10 — Acclimatization Climb to Yak Camp (17,000 feet/5,182 meters) and return to Base Camp (15,000 feet/4,570 meters), 4-6 hours round-trip

      After a big breakfast we begin hiking along a morainal ridge with spectacular views of the mountain. We eventually join the beginning of the Southwest Ridge, at this point a large plateau, and follow it thirty minutes or so to our tents. After a quick break and leaving some equipment, we return to base camp.

    • Day 11 — Rest day in Base Camp

      We begin our day with a Puja, a Buddhist blessing ceremony. This is a meaningful ritual for our Sherpa prior to the beginning of every expedition, and a special ceremony to take part in. We will spend the rest of the day organizing equipment, eating, taking showers, and visiting other teams from around the world.

    • Day 12 — Rest day in Base Camp

      This second rest day is crucial for our bodies to recuperate from many days of trekking at altitude. It is also a busy day. We set up a long and complicated fixed-line practice course on the cliffs and rocks above our base camp. We spend half the day practicing all the skills we will need on the technical sections of Ama Dablam including jumaring vertical lines, technical traverses, rappelling, arm-wrapping, and analyzing anchors and ropes.

    • Day 13 — Climb to Yak Camp (17,000 feet/5,182 meters), 3-4 hours

      We hike to Yak Camp, this time to sleep for the night.

    • Day 14 — Climb Yak Camp (17,000 feet/5,182 meters) to Camp 1 (18,500 feet/5,639 meters), 2-4 hours

      We pack our gear in Yak Camp and climb up the Southwest Ridge as it turns from a plateau to a true knife-edge. The climb begins on easy sandy trails, but quickly enters a large talus field, where we climb up and over huge granite boulders. The final few hundred feet (200 meters) are on fixed lines up a steep rock slab. The tents of Camp 1 are perched in an incredible airy position on rock platforms at the top of this slab.

    • Day 15 — Acclimatization Climb to Camp 2 (19,500 feet/5,944 meters) and return to Camp 1 (18,500 feet/5,639 meters), 4-6 hours round-trip

      Today we get our first taste of technical climbing on the mountain. We will clip into the fixed ropes and climb to Camp 2, dropping a small load there. The climbing is incredible, with short steps of 5.6-5.8 climbing interspersed with countless fourth to easy fifth class moves. The crux pitch of the climb, the Yellow Tower, is also found here. We return to Camp 1 to sleep.

    • Day 16 — Descend from Camp 1 (18,500 feet/5,639 meters) to Base Camp (15,000 feet/4,570 meters), 2 hours

      We wake up early and have a quick snack and hot drink. The descent from Camp 1 goes slowly down the technical slabs and across the talus, but then very quickly down the good trails from Yak Camp to base camp. We leave any gear we can at Camp 1 and Yak Camp in preparation for our summit bid.

    • Day 17 — Rest Day in Base Camp

      We will have earned it!

    • Day 18 — Rest Day in Base Camp

      Our bodies need to be 100% before attempting our summit of Ama Dablam. In base camp we eat great food, write emails home, play cards, hydrate, and sit in the sun. At this point we are also carefully analyzing the weather forecasts, choosing our best days to go for the summit.

    • Day 19 — Climb Base Camp (15,000 feet/4,570 meters) to Camp 1 (18,500 feet/5,639 meters), 4-6 hours

      Today is the beginning of our summit push, and we take our time moving to Camp 1, climbing as efficiently as we can to conserve our strength for the upcoming days.

    • Day 20 — Optional Rest Day in Camp 1

    • Day 21 — Climb Camp 1 (18,500 feet/5,639 meters) to Camp 2.7 (20,800 feet/6,350 meters), 5-7 hours

      After repeating the fun rock climbing from Camp 1 to Camp 2, we continue on to new terrain. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 2.7 is mostly ice and mixed climbing, and includes some of the toughest pitches of the whole climb, including the steep and difficult Grey Tower. Just before reaching Camp 2.7 we cross the mushroom ridge, a series of cornices and ice sculptures glued precipitously onto a knife-edge rock ridge. It is a section of climbing you will never forget! We build Camp 2.7 on the Mushroom Ridge in order to avoid any serac (icefall) danger from the Dablam that has endangered the traditional Camp 3 in previous years.

    • Day 22 — Climb Camp 2.7 (20,800 feet/6,350 meters) to Summit (22,525 feet/6,866 meters), return to Camp 2.7 (7-9 hours round-trip) or Camp 1 (12-15 hours round-trip)

      The climb from Camp 2.7 to the summit is actually technically easier than anything prior to it. However, we will be dealing with extremely high altitude and cold temperatures. Generally we do not leave camp until daybreak, making things warm enough to climb the steep ice and snow to the summit. The views are staggering; we will be able to see six 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. Depending on the team’s strength we will descend to Camp 2.7, or all the way to Camp 1.

    • Day 23 — Descend to Base Camp (15,000 feet/4,570 meters), 2 hours from Camp 1, 5-7 hours from Camp 2.7

      Any energy left from the climb and descent will be used to celebrate our summit push and safe return!

    • Day 24 — Rest Day in Base Camp

      After our summit push we will need and deserve this rest day. We organize gear, hang out in the sun, and feast on the kitchen’s creations.

    • Day 25 — Extra Day

      To be used as needed on our climb.

    • Day 26 — Trek from Ama Dablam BC (14,500 feet/4,420 meters) to Namche Bazaar (11,300 feet/3,444 meters), 6-7 hours

      We leave base camp in the morning and hike down the hill to Pangboche. After tea we continue down the valley and through thick rhododendron forests to Thyangboche. Thyangboche is home to the most influential and active monastery in the Khumbu and we will have time for a quick visit and lunch. We then continue walking, with a big drop down to the Dudh Khosi River and a dramatic suspension bridge. After crossing the bridge we climb again to Sanasa, and then contour along hillsides and over small ridges until finally dropping into Namche Bazaar.

    • Day 27 — Trek from Namche Bazaar (11,300 feet/3,444 meters) to Lukla (9,000 feet/ 2,743 meters), 5-6 hours

      Our final day of walking covers the same ground we spent 2 days climbing on the way in. Now that we are acclimatized we cover the distance easily, and enjoy the many suspension bridges, tumultuous rivers, small towns and monasteries. After lunch in Phakding, the trail climbs a final 600 vertical feet (180 meters) to the airstrip in Lukla, and our final lodge where we spend the night.

    • Day 28 — Fly Lukla (9,000 feet/2,743 meters) to Kathmandu

      This 45-minute flight begins with one of the most exciting takeoffs in the world. Once airborne the flight offers incredible views of the mountains, the foothills, and finally the city. After landing in Kathmandu we return to our hotel for an afternoon of celebration, great food, and perhaps much needed massages. Night in hotel.

    • Day 29 — Contingency day for flights from Lukla to Kathmandu

      Since the flights to and from Lukla are often delayed or cancelled due to bad weather in the mountains, this is an essential extra day. If we arrived back in Kathmandu on time, this day can be used for sightseeing in the city, shopping for souvenirs, or sleeping in and enjoying the fantastic pool at the hotel.

    • Day 30 — Depart Kathmandu for home

      After a final group breakfast, return to the airport to catch international flights home. (Tuesday)

  • Download Equipment List

      • Headwear and Eyewear

      • Hat

        Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim - the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding. Recommended: Alpenglow 5-Panel

        $25.00

      • Beanie

        A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet. Recommended: Eddie Bauer First Slouch Beanie

      • Neck Gaiter (Buff)

        A multi purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy. Recommended: Alpenglow Expeditions Buff

      • Balaclava

        We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours. Recommended: Patagonia Balaclava

      • Sunglasses

        Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies). Recommended: Julbo Shield

      • Goggles

        These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired. Recommended: Smith I/O MAG

      • Hands and Feet

      • Liner Gloves

        These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation. Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight WoolTech Gloves

      • Lightweight Gloves

        All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Mountain Glove

      • Midweight Gloves

        These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be your main glove for the trip until summit days, or when it gets especially cold. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Guide Glove

      • Big Mountain Mittens

        These mittens should be warm and worn over either a liner glove or windstopper glove. Down mittens are not required. You should choose a pair that allows you to still operate locking carabiners. Recommended: Black Diamond Absolute Mitt

      • Liner Socks (optional)

        A super-thin wicking sock that repels moisture. Liner socks help to reduce the likelihood of blisters. The socks should be thin wool, nylon, or Capilene®. NO COTTON. Recommended: Ice Breaker Hike Liner Crew

      • Hiking Socks

        Your everyday sock, good for day hikes, trekking, and in- town. NO COTTON. Recommended: Patagonia Lightweight Merino Performance Crew Socks

      • Warm Socks

        A wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. NO COTTON. Recommended: Smartwool Mountaineering Extra Heavy Crew Socks

      • Heated Socks

        These are optional, but highly recommended. Bring 2 sets of batteries. Hotronics boot heaters are another option instead of heated socks, but socks are preferred by our guides. Recommended: Sidas Sock Set V2 Uni S-1200

      • Hiking Shoes

        These light to mid-weight shoes are for every day use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow. Recommended: La Sportiva TX Guide

      • Base Camp Boots

        These snow boots are good for wearing around camp and should be comfortable when you slip into them after spending significant time in your mountain boots. Recommended: Sorel Caribou Boots

      • Mountaineering Boots (6,000m - 7,000m)

        Should be double boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8th of an inch when walking. Recommended: La Sportiva G2 Evo Boots

      • Down Booties (optional)

        You’ll love having a warm, comfortable shoe to slip into when tent-bound. Recommended: Western Mountaineering Flash Down Booties

      • Upper Body Apparel

      • Lightweight Top

        Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days. The new wool blends are also an option. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Resolution Short-Sleeve T-Shirt

      • Long Sleeve Base Layer

        A poly-pro mid-layer that you will never take off. Fitted, light- weight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck-in and we recommend zipper collars for more ventilation. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Midweight FreeDry® Merino Hybrid Baselayer 1/4-Zip

      • Warm Layer

        A polarguard or fleece jacket. This is your mid layer that will be worn over your baselayer most of the trip. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Cloud Layer Pro 1/4 Zip or Patagonia R1 Jacket

      • Synthetic Top

        A simple, lightweight synthetic jacket. This item is good for layering systems and the Primaloft keeps you warm when wet. Recommended: Eddie Bauer IgniteLite Stretch Reversible

      • Soft Shell Jacket

        While this item isn’t required, we know that those who don’t have one wish they did! More breathable than Gore-tex, these jackets block wind and light precipitation. A windshirt is an option for this layer. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Sandstone

      • Hard Shell Jacket

        A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it. Recommended: Eddie Bauer BC Freshline Jacket

      • Down Parka (6-8,000 Meter Peaks)

        A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Peak XV Down Jacket

      • Lower Body Apparel

      • Quick Dry Shorts

        Throw these on under other layers for when the sun begins to beat, or you have a sudden urge to jump in a glacial lake. Lightweight, durable and comfortable. NO COTTON. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Guide Pro Short

      • Expedition-weight Bottoms

        Fitted, light-weight and quick drying. The mid-weight will be a base- layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures. Bring multiple changes of layers. Recommended:Eddie Bauer Heavyweight Grid Fleece Baselayer Pants

      • Soft Shell Pants

        You will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water-resistant. These pants should have an ankle zip so they will accommodate your mountain boot. Recommended:Eddie Bauer Guide Pro Alpine Pants

      • Hard Shell Pants

        Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets. Recommended:Eddie Bauer BC Duraweave Alpine Pants

      • Insulated Pants

        Full-length side zippers are recommended, for throwing on top of all of your layers. This layer is required. Recommended: Black Diamond Stance Belay Pants

      • Expedition Equipment

      • Day Pack

        Mid-size pack for city days and trekking. Streamlined, neat and lightweight (10-20 liters). Recommended: Eddie Bauer Bacon 2.0 Pack

      • Climbing Pack: 50-60L

        Internal frame pack that is between 50 and 60 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Alpine Sisu 50L Pack or Black Diamond Mission 50 Pack

      • Hydration System (optional)

        Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube

      • Duffle Bags

        2 Duffle Bags - At least one bag should be extremely durable, waterproof, and big - between 90L and 120L. You should feel comfortable leaving it in a puddle for several hours. Remember dry clothes are hot commodities in the mountains! Large enough to fit everything you own, plus what you anticipate buying. Two duffel bags are necessary to fit all your equipment for travel (we don't recommend checking your backpack, best is to put all gear and backpack into your duffle). Once in country, you can consolidate your gear into one duffel and your backpack. It's common to leave the second duffel with city clothes and other non-necessary items behind in a locked and secure location that your guide will arrange for you. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Maximus Duffel

      • Inflatable Sleeping Pad

        72 inch long inflatable pad required. Make sure you also purchase and bring a repair kit + bag for the sleeping pad. Recommended: NeoAir Xtherm

      • Sleeping Bag (-20°)

        Rated to -20º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Granite Gear Compression Sack is desired. Recommended: Eddie Bauer Kara Koram with Compression Sack

      • Headlamp

        L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp. Recommended:Black Diamond Revolt 350

      • Trekking Pole(s)

        Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable. Recommended:Black Diamond Trailback Trekking Poles

      • Two 1L Nalgene Bottles

        Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles. Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth

      • Compressible 1-1.5L Bottle

        Wide mouth compressible 1-1.5 liter bottle. Recommended: Nalgene Flexible Cantene

      • Plastic Bowl, Mug and Spoon

        A lightweight and compact cookware setup. You'll want a plastic bowl, mug and spoon. Recommended Kit: MSR 2 Person Mess Kit

      • Lighters

        2 BIC Lighters

      • Coffee

        While Alpenglow provides hot drink options every morning, it can be nice to have your own on hand any time you need a boost. With hot water always readily available, having instant coffee packets can give you the energy you need after a long day in the mountains! Recommended: Alpine Start Original Blend Instant Coffee

      • Technical Equipment

      • Helmet

        Easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first come, first serve basis. Recommended: Petzl Meteor Helmet

      • Harness

        Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first come, first serve basis. Recommended: Petzl Altitude

      • Mountaineering Crampons

        Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first come, first serve basis. Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons

      • Semi-technical Ice Axe

        One semi-technical climbing axe, approximately 50cm long, with an adze. Bent or straight shaft tools are ok. Recommended: Petzl Summit Evo

      • Locking Carabiner (2)

        Lightweight small carabiners are best. Recommended: Petzl Attache

      • Non-Locking Carabiner (2)

        Lightweight small carabiners are best, wire-gates are fine. Recommended: Petzl Spirit

      • Belay Device

        Light, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/grooves for skinny ropes. Recommended: Petzl Reverso

      • Accessory Cord

        25’ of 6mm nylon accessory cord. This will be used to make prusiks and cordalettes. Recommended: Sterling Ropes

      • Ascender

        Should have large opening for gloved hands, and an easy thumb trigger. Recommended: Petzl Ascension

      • Miscellaneous Items

      • Miscellaneous Items

        • Passport (with visa, if necessary)
        • 2 luggage locks (TSA compliant)
        • Non-cotton underwear
        • Wag bags, 1 per night camping as to leave no trace
        • Heavy duty garbage bags (at least 4)
        • Stuffsacks: assorted sizes, for organizing your clothes and gear
        • Sunscreen: SPF 30 (or higher)
        • Lip balm with SPF 15 (or higher)
        • Personal first-aid kit (Band-aids, Ibuprofen, Cough Drops, Moleskin, Pepto-bismol, Imodium, Personal Medications)
        • Toiletries
        • 3-4lbs of Snack food (a variety of snack food, some whole food, some bars, some gels)
        • Hand Warmers
        • Face Mask
        • Hand Sanitizer
        • Knife
        • Steripen

      • Optional Items

        • External Battery Packs for phones, and other electronics. Recommended: Anker PowerCore Speed 10000.
        • Travel wallet pouch (waist or neck)
        • Leatherman/ Swiss Army Knife (Recommended: Leatherman Juice C2)
        • Zip lock bags (large size, for organizing small items and waterproofing)
        • Pee Funnel (optional for women) One popular model is the Freshette.
        • Ear Plugs
        • Journal/Cards/Games for personal entertainment
        • Language Phrase Book
        • Camera - Full size DSLRs not recommended as your summit camera.  Sony RX100 is a guide’s favorite. Remember extra SD cards and batteries.
        • Compact Binoculars
        • Sandals (Flip-Flops, Chacos or Tevas)

      • In Town Items

        - External Battery Packs for phones, and other electronics. Recommended: Anker PowerCore Speed 10000.

        - Ear Plugs

        - Journal/Cards/Games for personal entertainment

        - Language Phrase Book

        - Camera - Full size DSLRs not recommended as your summit camera.  Sony RX100 is a guide’s favorite. Remember extra SD cards and batteries.

        - Compact Binoculars

        - Sandals (Flip-Flops, Chacos or Tevas)

      • Packing Note

        For your international flights we recommend that you pack all of your equipment in your two duffle bags. Do not simply pack your backpack (since its straps can be damaged by baggage handling machines). It is important to lock these bags for their trip. Depending on airport, you may be able to put your travel locks on after they have been searched. If not, lock the bag with zip ties. If the TSA cuts off the zip tie to search your bag, they will replace it. You will still need travel locks to lock your bags in the hotel and in Basecamp. Generally, you will take one duffle to Basecamp, and leave one in the hotel with your belongings for town.

  • Download Trip Details

    • What is your cancellation policy?

      Please click here to review our international cancellation policy. 

    • What sort of experience is needed for Ama?

      Ama Dablam is a technical climb. Climbers should have experience multi-pitch climbing (rock or ice), be comfortable following grade 4 ice climbs, 5.9 rock climbs, and have climbed at altitude (over 18,000 feet).

    • What is the longest day I can expect?

      Your longest, most difficult day will be summit day. We wake very early in the morning, using headlamps and warm layers. Climbing steadily through the night, we find ourselves high in the peak when the sun rises. After gaining the summit, we descend back to 2.7 camp, or back to camp 1. You can expect between 12 and 15 hours of steady movement.

    • Do you rent gear for Ama Dablam?

      For a peak of this magnitude, we recommend and find that most climbers already own personal climbing gear. If needed, Alpenglow can provide harness, helmet and crampons, reservations required. We do not provide boots for this peak, however; so you must have your own double boots. Please see the equipment list for more information.

    • I’m looking at climbing an 8000 meter peak someday. Will this help me get there?

      At 6,812 meters (22,349’), Ama Dablam will give you the necessary altitude experience to attempt the bigger mountains in the world, such as Mt. Cho Oyu in the Himalaya.

    • What level of fitness is required?

      Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.

    • Do I need to purchase Rescue Insurance and Travel Insurance?

      We require Rescue Insurance on all of our international expeditions. Rescue insurance will help cover costs in the event that you need to be rescued off the mountain (Ex: Helicopter/medical evacuation). Travel Insurance (which we strongly recommend) can cover issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance, like illness. We recommend Global Rescue for both types of insurance.

      If you do choose Global Rescue, be sure to select the High Altitude Evacuation Add-On that is needed for insurance coverage above 15,000 ft.

    • Are Covid vaccinations required?

      Our leadership has made the decision to require all participants to be vaccinated for international travel. This is a safety measure that we have made to not only protect our clients, but also to protect our guide team and the local people in which we interact with during our expeditions. We want to do our utmost to mitigate the risk of Covid disrupting our expeditions, and having our teams vaccinated has become an important part of our risk management system with international travel. Please reach out to us if you have any questions or issues regarding this decision, we’d be happy to hop on a call and discuss this further.

    • What all is included and excluded?

      The cost of your trip includes your land costs (excluding in-town meals). This includes:

      • Double occupancy lodging while in town, according to itinerary.
      • Meals on the mountain
      • Group camping and climbing equipment
      • Base camp and mountain infrastructure
      • Scheduled transportation while in the countries we are visiting
      • Certified guides
      • Covid testing arrangements for re-entry into home country (does not include cost of test)

      The cost of your trip does not include:

      • Flights to/from the city where the expedition begins
      • Additional nights in hotel outside of the itinerary, this includes but is not limited to extra hotel nights due to an early summit bid and early departure from the mountain.
      • Airport taxes
      • Visas
      • In-town meals
      • Immunizations
      • Tips for guides or local staff
      • Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance
      • Hospitalization or evacuation costs
      • Single supplement room charges
      • Excess baggage charges
      • Alcohol
      • Antigen/PCR Covid test cost
      • Other personal expenses
      • Airport transportation for early arrival/late departures outside of scheduled itinerary
      • The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Alpenglow Expeditions or its agents are not included.

Meet your guides

Chad Peele

Chad Peele

Chad Peele has been guiding for over 15 years and works full time as a mountain guide. Based out of Ridgway Colorado, Chad spends his winters instructing and guiding on some of the best ice terrain the U.S. has to offer. Outside of Colorado he has traveled and guided extensively throughout North and South America with several trips to the Himalayas including multiple summits of both Everest and Ama Dablam. When not in the Mountains Chad does clothing and equipment design for Eddie Bauer’s First Ascent outdoor line.

Chad is an AMGA Rock & Alpine guide.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
  • AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Logan Talbott

Logan Talbott

co-owner / chief guide

Logan has been guiding professionally for over a decade in the disciplines of Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering. When not out guiding, Logan spends time in the office helping the team with the day-to-day operations of the business. From one day ascents of El Capitan to big Alpine climbs in the Himalaya, from ski descents on Denali to backyard ski tours in Lake Tahoe, he can’t help but smile when out running around the hills. Logan is an AMGA/IFMGA mountain guide, an Avalanche course leader with AIARE, as well as a wilderness EMT. In addition to guiding, Logan has extensive experience in mountain rescue, having worked for rescue teams in both Yosemite and Denali National Parks, and volunteering locally for Tahoe Nordic SAR. When not out in the hills, he lives in Truckee, CA with his lovely wife Lynette and daughter Maggie.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA - American Mountain Guide
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide
Adrian Ballinger

Adrian Ballinger

Adrian Ballinger is one of the USA’s premier high-altitude mountain guides, and the only American guide to have both AMGA/IFMGA guide’s certification (one of roughly 150 in the USA) and more than a fifteen summits of 8,000 meter peaks (17 total, including 8 summits of Mt. Everest, 1 without supplemental oxygen, as well as an ascent of K2 without supplemental oxygen). As founder of Alpenglow Expeditions, Adrian has been guiding full-time for over twenty years and has led over 130 international climbing expeditions on 6 continents.

In 2011 he, along with 2 Sherpa partners, became the first people to summit three 8,000 meter peaks in only 3 weeks (Everest twice and Lhotse once). He is also the first person to ski Manaslu (the 8th tallest mountain in the world) from its summit, and the first American to successfully ski two 8,000-meter peaks. These personal successes are combined with Adrian’s passion for guiding and teaching others. Adrian has successfully led more than 100 clients to the summits of Everest, Lhotse (the 4th tallest mountain in world), Cho Oyu (6th tallest) and Manaslu (8th tallest).

Whether on skis, in rock shoes, or mountain boots, Adrian thrives on sharing the big mountains with friends and clients, and helping them to build their skills and experience to be successful on the world’s most beautiful mountains. In the coming seasons, Adrian plans on continuing to enjoy big-mountain skiing, climbing, and guiding in the Himalaya, South America, Europe, and of course closer to home in Olympic Valley, CA. Adrian is a sponsored athlete for Eddie Bauer, La Sportiva, Fischer, Hiball Energy, and Favre Leuba.

Learn more about Adrian at adrianballinger.com

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA - American Mountain Guide
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide
Esteban “Topo” Mena

Esteban “Topo” Mena

Topo’s formal name is Esteban Mena, but he goes by his nickname. Esteban Topo Mena is 28 years old and began his guiding career at 19, when he climbed Aconcagua’s South Face and became the youngest person to accomplish this difficult climb. Topo began guiding in Ecuador and Peru. In 2012, Topo summited Manaslu and in 2013, he summited Everest – both without using supplementary oxygen. Topo again summited Everest in 2016 while supporting his wonderful partner Carla as she successfully summited without supplemental oxygen. In 2018 Topo summited both Cho Oyu and Everest with clients in under 30 days. An incredible achievement that only the best guides in the word could attempt. He also has climbed challenging new routes in Kyrgyzstan and China and one of his climbs (Kyzyl Asker) has been nominated for the Piolet d’Or (as part of an Ecuadorian team).

Guide Certifications
  • ASEGUIM
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide

What others are saying about this trip

  • Ama Dablam - A Climbers Climb

    A perfect peak in a stunning setting, Alpenglow's Ama Dablam expedition was well organized from the moment we landed in Kathmandu all the way to the summit. I can't imagine a smoother trip, and the guides kept us moving while maintaining great margins of safety along the way. I'd go anywhere with Alpenglow Expeditions.

    Ben M.

    Expedition Inquiry Form

    • Have questions about this trip?

      Ama Dablam

    Ama Dablam

    This expedition includes an experienced Western guide. Ama Dablam is an ideal stepping stone to more independent expeditions on big Himalayan peaks. You'll climb the route of the mountain’s first ascent, the Southwest Ridge and be supported by the best Sherpa staff in the Khumbu. Climber to guide ratio is 4:1, and our climber to sherpa ratio is 1:1.

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