Artesonraju
Artesonraju Expedition
The Alpenglow Approach has been developed over the past two decades, and our expertise in Peru gives you the best possible experience climbing Artesonraju.
- CERTIFIED AND PROFESSIONAL GUIDES
- HIGH END TRANSPORT AND LODGING
- QUALITY LOGISTICS AND MOUNTAIN INFRASTRUCTURE
- PORTERING AND FRESH FOOD
- OFFICE TEAM SUPPORT
- July 16 2025 – 29, 2025
- July 15 – 28, 2026
Climb Artesonraju, the “Paramount Pictures” mountain.
Artesonraju (19,767’/6,025m) is considered one of the jewels of the Cordillera Blanca. The spectacular peak is often recognized as the Paramount Pictures icon and provides an incredible climbing experience in the Cordillera Blanca. Climbing Artesonraju demands an extremely long summit day, where efficiency and fitness are essential.
Artesonraju Itinerary Overview
Our Artesonraju acclimatization strategy is pure fun, trekking for a day high above Huaraz and climbing Vallunaraju (18,655’/5,686 meters). Vallunaraju rises out of the beautiful Llaca Valley close to Huaraz. Summit day on Vallunaraju is big as we bypass Moraine Camp and head straight for the summit on moderate glaciated terrain, perfect for refreshing our skills and acclimatizing.
Our itinerary allows us to begin our trek to Artesonraju within a week of arriving in Peru. Although Artesonraju has a relatively quick and easy approach, summit day of the North East Face is long as we navigate a complex glacier, climb approximately 7 pitches of steep snow and ice, and end on the exposed summit of Artesonraju. The 360 degree views from this summit are spectacular and incredibly rewarding.
The Alpenglow Difference
Certified and Professional Mountain Guides on Artesonraju
Alpenglow’s Artesonraju Expedition will be guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s AMGA/IFMGA certified lead guides. AMGA/IFMGA (American Mountain Guides Association/International Federation of Mountain Guides Association) certification is the highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. Our lead guides have all traveled and climbed extensively in South America and know the Peruvian Andes intimately. Their knowledge of Andean culture as well as the mountains, combined with their passion for teaching others to become competent mountaineers, guarantees that your experience will be one to remember!
Quality Logistics and Base Camp Infrastructure for Artesonraju
When it comes to climbing in the Cordillera Blanca, quality = success. We provide the highest quality logistics possible in Peru. Comfortable bus tickets for the drive to Huaraz, porters for all of our gear, professionally trained cooks and fresh food, hangout/dining tents for base camp; you’ll find that our base camp set up is designed to set you up for success as best it can be.
FITNESS
TECHNICAL
ALTITUDE
Artesonraju Itinerary
- Day 1
- Arrival
Arrive in Lima between 6pm and midnight.
- Day 2
- Drive to Huaraz
Drive to Huaraz (8 hours), where we base out of Olaza’s Guest House, a small but beautiful hotel (10,000’/3,050m).
- Day 3
- Acclimatize and Organize
Acclimatize and organize in Huaraz. We’ll go on a short hike outside of Huaraz as we start our acclimatization.
- Day 4
- Drive to the End of the Road
We’ll drive to a refugio at the end of the Llaca Valley road (14,000’/4,267m). We prepare our gear for the climb and scope the complicated route through the moraine.
- Day 5
- Acclimatization Climb
Today, we climb Vallunaraju (18,655 feet/ 5,686 meters) and return to Huaraz. Vallunaraju provides us with a perfect acclimatization climb on moderate terrain, allowing us to review and practice our skills. We enjoy spectacular views all day long.
- Day 6
- Move to Llama Corral
Next, we drive to our trailhead in the village of Cashapampa (9,000’/2,743m). This 3-hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities as we weave between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. After organizing our burros, we hike with daypacks to Llama Corral (11,500’/3,505 meters), where we camp for the night.
- Day 7
- Move up to Basecamp
Today, we begin up the Santa Cruz Valley route on a mellow trail and then turn off to Artesonraju basecamp (13,944’/4,250m).
- Day 8
- Rest and Skills Day
Today we rest and work on our skills in preparation for the technical climbing on Artesonraju.
- Day 9
- Move to Moraine Camp
After another roughly 5 hours of hiking, we arrive at Moraine Camp (16,404/’/5,000m).
- Day 10
- Summit Day
Two-tool climbing takes us to the summit of this incredible peak at 19,767’/6,025m). We will need to move efficiently to successfully summit and descend by rappelling off this huge alpine route. We spend the night at Moraine Camp.
- Day 11
- Weather Window
Extra summit day for weather or rest.
- Day 12
- Descent to Basecamp
Descend to basecamp and enjoy our last sunset in the Cordillera Blanca.
- Day 13
- Return to Huaraz
Walk out to Cashapampa and return to Huaraz for a night of celebration with the team.
- Day 14
- Head Home
We depart from Huaraz back to Lima to catch our flights (after 11pm). Say goodbye to your team and head home!
Our Artesonraju Guides
Artesonraju Equipment List
HatBring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.
Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
BeanieA comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.
Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie
BalaclavaWe recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.
Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava
Neck Gaiter (Buff)A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.
Recommended: Alpenglow Buff
SunglassesMust have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).
Recommended: Vuarnet Ice Rounds
GogglesThese will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses for bright sun. Ventilation and anti-fog features are desired.
Recommended: Vuarnet Everest Goggles
Liner GlovesThese gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.
Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Screentap Liners
Lightweight GlovesAll-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.
Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Softshell Gloves
Midweight GlovesThese gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.
Recommend: Black Diamond Tour Gloves
Heavyweight GlovesThese gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, with a removable fleece liner (so you can take the liner out and dry it at night). These gloves are used at higher altitudes and are needed to keep your hands dry, and warm. Over the cuff style is desired.
Recommended: Black Diamond Guide Gloves
Liner SocksA super-thin wicking sock that repels moisture. Liner socks help to reduce the likelihood of blisters. The socks should be thin wool, nylon, or Capilene®. NO COTTON
Recommended: Ice Breaker Merino Liner
Hiking SocksYour everyday sock, good for day hikes, trekking, and in-town. It’s good to bring several pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Hiking Sock
Warm SocksA wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. Bring a few pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Mountaineering Sock
Hiking ShoesThese light to mid-weight shoes are for everyday use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow.
Recommended: La Sportiva Bushido
Mountaineering Boots (5,000 – 6,000m)Should be warm single or double boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8th of an inch when walking. (If your feet run cold, we would recommend a double boot like the La Sportiva G2 Evo.) For our Introductory Climbing Schools, we have limited availability and sizes for free boot rentals. If you need rentals, please reach out to the office staff asap to ensure we have your size.
Recommended: La Sportiva G5 Evo
Waterproof GaitersGORE-TEX® or Schoeller® calf- high gaiters, insulated supergaiters recommended. *Gaiters are not needed if your pants and/or boots have built-in gaiters.
Recommended: Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiters (required if your boots do not have integrated gaiters)
Lightweight TopUltra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Sun HoodieLightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Lightweight Baselayer TopA long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Solution 150 Merino Crew
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Solution 150 Merino Crew
Mid-Weight Puffy JacketA simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Hoody
Mid-Weight Warm Layer TopThis mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Coefficient LT Quarter Zip Pullover
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Coefficient LT Quarter Zip Pullover
Soft Shell JacketMore breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Hard Shell JacketA lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Stormline Stretch Rain Shell
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Stormline Stretch Shell
Down ParkaA puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Quick Dry ShortsThrow these on under other layers for when the sun begins to beat, or you want to stretch / relax in Basecamp. Lightweight, durable and comfortable. NO COTTON.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Sierra Shorts
Lightweight Baselayer BottomsFitted and quick drying. This piece will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures. This can be 3/4 length bottoms if preferred.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Solution 150 Merino Baselayer
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution 150 Merino Baselayer
Mid-Weight Baselayer BottomsFitted, mid-weight and quick drying, this baselayer (or midlayer) will be suitable for ski tours to alpine ascents.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Coefficient LT Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Coefficient LT Pants
Hiking PantLightweight, durable, quick-drying hiking pant that will be your day-to-day pant during the expedition
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Technician Alpine Pant
Soft-Shell Alpine PantYou will spend most of your days in these pants. They should be breathable + water-resistant.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Alpine Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Alpine Pants
Hard Shell Climbing PantYour waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Recon Stretch Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Recon Stretch Pants
Insulated PantFull-length side zippers are recommended, for throwing on top of all of your layers.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stance Belay Pants
Duffel Bags2 Duffel Bags – At least one bag should be extremely durable, waterproof, and big – between 90L and 120L. You should feel comfortable leaving it in a puddle for several hours. Remember dry clothes are hot commodities in the mountains! Large enough to fit everything you own, plus what you anticipate buying. Two duffel bags are necessary to fit all your equipment for travel (we don’t recommend checking your backpack, best is to put all gear and backpack into your duffel). Once in country, you can consolidate your gear into one duffel and your backpack. It’s common to leave the second duffel with city clothes and other non-necessary items behind in a locked and secure location that your guide will arrange for you.
Note: For ski expeditions such as the Ecuador Ring of Fire, you can replace one of these duffel bags with a ski/splitboard bag.
Recommended: Black Diamond Stonehauler 90L
Day PackMid-size pack for city days and trekking. Streamlined, neat and lightweight (10-20 liters).
Recommended: Black Diamond Bullet 16 Pack
Climbing Pack: 50-60LInternal frame pack that is between 50 and 60 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.
Recommended: Black Diamond Speed 50L Pack
Sleeping Bag (0°F)Rated to 0º F. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Many climbers also like a silk liner. For the Ecuador Climbing School: If you’re on our 9-Day (non-extension) trip, a 20º F rated bag is ok.
Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0°F
Inflatable Sleeping Pad72-inch long inflatable pad required. Make sure you also purchase and bring a repair kit + bag for the sleeping pad.
Recommended: NeoAir® XLite™ NXT Sleeping Pad
Foam Sleeping PadFoldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.
Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad
HeadlampsPlease bring two L.E.D. Headlamps. One will be intended as a lightweight backup. L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.
Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450
Backup Headlamp Recommended: Black Diamond Deploy 325
Trekking PolesMake sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable. These are optional, but highly recommended.
Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles
Hydration SystemShould carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube
Two 1L Nalgene BottlesTwo 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.
Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
Compressible 1-1.5L BottleWide mouth compressible 1-1.5 liter bottle. Optional but strongly recommended. Often used as a designated pee bottle.
Recommended: Nalgene Flexible Cantene
ThermosA fully insulated thermos is optional but recommended for warm drinks that help with comfort, hydration, and safety on cold days in the mountains.
Recommended: Thermos STAINLESS KING™ DRINK BOTTLE 24OZ
Plastic Bowl, Mug, and SpoonA lightweight and compact cookware setup. You’ll want a plastic bowl, mug and spoon.
Recommended Kit: MSR 2-Person Mess Kit
HelmetAn easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Vapor Helmet
Climbing HarnessRock climbing harness that has gear loops, adjustable leg loops and waist belts. We recommend a harness that does not require the belt loop to be “double backed”.
Recommended: Black Diamond Zone Harness
Hybrid Ice AxeA light technical hybrid ice axe (50-57cm) with adze.
Recommended: Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe
Ice Axe Leash (Dual)A waist leash for both your two-tool technical ice tools.
Recommended: Black Diamond Spinner Leash
Mountaineering CramponsSteel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail and that they fit snugly on your ski or snowboard boots. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons
Non-locking Carabiner (2)Small, lightweight small carabiners are best, wire-gates are fine.
Recommended: Black Diamond LiteWire Carabiner
Locking Carabiner (2)Small, lightweight locking carabiners are best.
Recommended: Black Diamond LiteForge Screwgate
Accessory Cord5m of 6mm nylon accessory cord.
Recommended: Sterling Accessory Cord
Belay DeviceLight, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/grooves for skinny ropes.
Recommended: Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide Belay Device
Miscellaneous Items- Passport (with visa, if necessary)
- 2 luggage locks (TSA compliant)
- Non-cotton underwear
- Wag bags, 1 per night camping as to leave no trace
- Day Pack (optional) – Mid-size for city days/trekking
- Stuffsacks: assorted sizes, for organizing your clothes and gear
- Sunscreen: SPF 30 (or higher)
- Lip balm with SPF 15 (or higher)
- Personal first-aid kit (Band-aids, Ibuprofen, Cough Drops, Moleskin, Pepto-bismol, Imodium, Personal Medications, Saline nasal spray)
- Toiletries
- 3-4lbs of Snack food (a variety of snack food, some whole food, some bars, some gels)
- Hand Warmers
- Flip flops or sandals/crocs – for showers, lounging, etc
- Face Mask
- Hand Sanitizer
- Knife
- Mountain Face Mask (optional)
- Headphones
- Powerbank (6-10K mAh good for 2-3 phone charges, weighing under 8oz)
Artesonraju Questions
Covid vaccinations are not required, but highly recommended.
We require Rescue Insurance on all of our international expeditions. Rescue insurance will help cover costs in the event that you need to be rescued off the mountain (Ex: Helicopter/medical evacuation). Travel Insurance (which we strongly recommend) can cover issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance, like illness. We do recommend Global Rescue who does offer a Comprehensive Travel Protection option to your required Rescue (Evacuation) Insurance.
Yes. Please reach out to our team with the details of your dietary restrictions and we’ll set you up for success.
Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. While Dr. Piris does not travel with our team on all expeditions, she is in 24 communication with our expedition leaders. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.
While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
THE COST OF YOUR TRIP INCLUDES YOUR LAND COSTS (EXCLUDING IN-TOWN MEALS). THIS INCLUDES:
All lodging according to itinerary, including double occupancy lodging while in town and group lodging in mountain huts.
Breakfasts in town, all meals while on the mountain
Group camping and climbing equipment
All park/climbing permits
Scheduled in-country transportation
Airport transfers
Certified guides
Covid testing arrangements for re-entry into home country (does not include cost of test)THE COST OF YOUR TRIP DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Flights to/from the city where the expedition begins.
Additional nights in hotel outside of the itinerary
Airport taxes
Visas
In-town dinners
Immunizations
Tips for guides or local staff
Travel, rescue, or any other type of insurance
Hospitalization or evacuation costs
Single supplement charges
Excess baggage charges
Alcohol
Other personal expenses
Antigen/PCR Covid test cost
The costs of delays or changes to itinerary that are beyond the control of Alpenglow Expeditions or its agents are not included.When an expedition is more than 90 days out, we require a 20% deposit to guarantee your reservation. Within 90 days we require full payment.
We always consider customs. Custom trips make up more than 50% of our groups. Please reach out to learn more!
This is an advanced expedition that requires experience climbing at altitude as well as experience with technical multi pitch routes.
Alpenglow is the best
“I’ve been climbing with Alpenglow for over ten years. After my first expedition, I knew I’d found the best team. I feel like I’m a member of the Alpenglow family, and have come to know and love many of their guides, office staff, and programs. Alpenglow is truly the best!”
Evan M
- Learn More
Alpamayo & Quitaraju
Advanced Next Available
June 14, 2025 – June 28th, 2025 15 Days Cordillera Blanca, Peru
- Learn More
Mountains Of Bolivia Expedition
Intermediate Next Available
July 19, 2025 – August 3, 2025 16 Days Bolivia
- 32.653179° S, 70.010868° W Learn More
- 39.34° N, 72.88° E Learn More
