Mount Everest North Side Rapid Ascent Expedition

34 Days in Tibet / (Skill level: Advanced)

Price per person

$85,000.00

About this trip

Summit the world's tallest peak from the North Side - without the crowds or the risk of the South Side and Khumbu Icefall. Experience the unique culture, environment, and people of Tibet. Climb Everest in half of the time of traditional expeditions, with the North Side's most professional team and best logistics.

Overview

  • skill level

    Advanced

  • Duration

    34 Days

Alpenglow Expeditions’ Rapid-Ascent climbs are an entirely new way to approach big-mountain expeditions. After 15 years of guiding expeditions all over the world, including more than a dozen 8,000-meter peak expeditions, we have refined and distilled the acclimatization and climbing process to maximize safety, health, success, and enjoyment. Please contact us to discuss exactly what these shorter climbs entail.

Highlights:

  • Summit the world’s tallest peak from the North Side – without the crowds or the risk of the South Side and Khumbu Icefall
  • Experience the unique culture, environment and people of Tibet
  • Climb Everest in half the time of traditional expeditions, with the North Side’s most professional team and best logistics and infrastructure

Mt. Everest, the tallest mountain in the world (29,035 feet/8,848 meters), is an incredible challenge and experience. Alpenglow’s unique format and extensive experience gives us the ability to achieve the highest levels of both safety and success. Since 2015, we have moved our operations to the North Side of Mt. Everest. With increasing stability in Tibet being contrasted by increasing instability in Nepal, the significantly safer and less crowded route from the North Side is an obvious choice for our teams. Our team’s strengths cater well to the increased remoteness of the North Side. Our Sherpa, guides, and support staff are unanimous that responsible climbing teams must avoid the increasingly unpredictable icefall and politics found on Everest’s South Side. Many members of our team (including Sherpa, cooks, doctor, and guides) have worked extensively on the North Side and make our team one of the most experienced to offer climbs from Tibet.

Alpenglow offers an exceptional level of competency, safety, and comfort to Everest expeditions. Our team will be limited to 9 members, with certified guides and the best Sherpa and cooks available (staff we have been working with for more than a decade). Our small group size allows us to adapt to changing conditions and weather far more easily than many commercial teams, which have become so large over the last five years that they have become difficult to manage. Our member to Sherpa (2:3) and member to guide ratios (3:1), the comforts of our Base Camp, our fresh and nutritious food, and our use of maximum oxygen are details that add up to a far more enjoyable experience and successful climb.

Historically, we have seen that over 30% of climbers on other teams head home long before attempting their summit push on Mt. Everest. This is generally for 3 reasons, all tied to the amount of time teams take “acclimatizing” on the mountain: the multiple trips up and down the mountain during acclimatization cause the climber to reassess the risk and go home, the climber’s weight loss, chronic sickness and progressive weakening at altitude cause them to call off the trip, or a family or work issue at home takes priority. Our goal with a 34-day itinerary is to keep all the necessary acclimatization, training, and mountain preparation, while minimizing the unnecessary waiting and down time of traditional expeditions. Use of the best technology available (including weather forecasting, efficient oxygen systems, and pre- acclimatization in hypoxic tents) and our team’s experience (and their early arrival and late departure to pre-set and clean the mountain’s camps and ropes), allows our team to minimize their time approaching Advanced Base Camp, while maximizing their chances of success.

Alpenglow Expeditions’ logistics, guiding, Base Camp staff, food, and equipment are of the absolute highest level possible. As with all of Alpenglow’s 8,000-meter peak expeditions, Everest is organized and led by IFMGA guide, Adrian Ballinger. Adrian is one of the most recognized guides in the Himalaya, with an impeccable safety record and twelve 8,000 meter peak summits, all while guiding or rope-fixing for guided teams. Adrian has extensive experience organizing complicated logistics for large Himalayan teams (including 6 years as lead guide for one of the Himalaya’s largest companies), as well as countless hours on the mountain rope-fixing with Sherpa, guiding members, and assisting and organizing rescues.

While many downplay the difficulty and hazards of climbing Mount Everest, Alpenglow maintains a deep respect for the nature of this mountain and you will never find us underestimating its potential dangers. We require a significant amount of experience from each of our members to ensure that you will feel comfortable on the peak, both with your own skills and of those of your teammates.

Preparation

  • Altitude Experience

    Climbers must have substantial climbing experience to join our Everest Expedition. Climbers must have climbed at least one 8,000 meter peak prior to joining us on an open enrollment. Climbers must be able to climb technical terrain with an alpine pack on their back. Climbers should also be comfortable with camp craft in high- altitude camps and be able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude.

  • Technical Experience

    Must be able to climb moderate rock, ice, and snow terrain, often with an alpine pack on your back. You should be comfortable with camp craft in high-altitude camps, and able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude. Prior ascents of multiple 6000 - 7000 meter peaks is strongly recommended.

  • Fitness

    Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.

    • Day 1 — Fly Kathmandu to Lhasa

      Fly by plane to Lhasa (12,000 feet/3,650 meters). One of the most beautiful and memorable mountain flights in the world, we take a flight over the Himalaya, often catching glimpses of Everest. From the airport it is an hour drive into Lhasa, where we have a bit of time to walk around the old city, and enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner.

    • Day 2 — Visit the Potala Palace and Jokhang Monastary, drive to Shigatse (12,500 feet/3,800 meters).

      The Potala Palace, former home of the Dalai Lama, and ancient Jokhang Monastary, are two of Tibet’s most important cultural sites, and imperative to beginning to understand this unique place. After a morning exploring with our local guide, we drive a few hours along the now paved road to Everest, stopping for the night in Shigatse, and our simple but clean hotel.

    • Day 3 — Drive Shigatse to Everest Base Camp (17,000 feet/5,200 meters).

      We continue along the Tibetan Plateau until we begin to see views of Everest. From there we leave the main road and follow the valley to the Rongbuk Monastery. After exploring the monastery and lunch, we continue driving into our base camp, where we settle in.

    • Day 4 — Rest in Everest Base Camp.

      Our camp offers excellent food, comfortable tents, and important amenities (heated dining tents, electricity, etc.). We allow our bodies to continue their acclimatization, and spend the day organizing equipment and logistics.

    • Day 5 — Rest in Everest Base Camp.

      Today we do an acclimatization hike above camp, returning in time for lunch and rest before tomorrow’s move.

    • Day 6 - 10 — Acclimatization at Everest Base Camp (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)

      Our acclimatization day are spent hiking, resting, eating and getting used to life on the mountain. We split the move to Advanced Base Camp in two, today moving 6 miles to Interim Camp. While this camp is simple, we still ensure comfortable sleeping, dining, and excellent food. The location is incredible, surrounded by penitentes (ice towers).

    • Day 11 — Move to Interim Camp (19,000 feet/5,800 meters)

      Today we move 6 miles to Interim Camp. The location is incredible, surrounded by penitentes (ice towers).

    • Day 12 — Interim Camp (19,000 feet/5,800 meters) to Advanced Base Camp (21,300 feet/6,400 meters).

      Six miles of hiking along the moraine and glacier bring us to Advanced Base Camp, our home on the side of the East Rongbuk Glacier. This camp, our main one for the duration of the expedition, is established with as much comfort as possible to balance life in the harsh environment.

    • Day 13-14 — Acclimatize in Advanced Base Camp (21,300 feet/6,400 meters).

      Our bodies need time to acclimatize to over 21,000 feet. We utilize the days re- visiting required fixed rope and climbing skills, taking short acclimatization hikes, and eating and resting in our impressive camp.

    • Day 15 — Advanced Base Camp (21,300 feet/6,400 meters) to North Col Camp (23,000 feet/7,000 meters).

      A 4-6 hour climb takes us from the edge of the East Rongbuk Glacier up progressively steepening snow slopes. The 2,000 foot climb is an excellent time to focus on crampon efficiency and fixed rope technique, and arriving at the North Col is hard-earned.

    • Day 16 — Rest North Col Camp (23,000 feet/7,000 meters).

      Again, a day of rest aids our body in acclimatization.

    • Day 17 — Rest North Col Camp (23,000 feet/7,000 meters).

      We take an acclimatization climb part way along the wide snow ridge towards Camp 2, descending back to North Col Camp for the night.

    • Day 18 — Descend from North Col Camp (23,000 feet/7,000 meters) to Advanced Base Camp (21,300 feet/6,400 meters).

      We descend quickly via rappels and arm-wrapping back to our camp on the side of the glacier. Our bodies will need rest, but now feel strong and able to recover at Advanced Base Camp.

    • Day 19 — Descend to Base Camp Rest (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)

      At the minimum we take 5 days of rest in BC before considering a summit push. We descend all the way to Base Camp to make the most of our recovery time before our summit push.

    • Day 24-30 — Summit Window.

      When weather, conditions and health allow, we make our summit push. We return to North Col Camp. From North Col we utilize supplementary oxygen to continue to Camp 2 (24,750 feet/7,500 meters), Camp 3 (25,600 feet/7,900 meters), Camp 4 (27,400 feet/8,300 meters) and on to the summit (29,029 feet/8,848 meters). The climbing above North Col varies, with mostly easy snow and rock ledge walking punctuated by short steeper steps, including the First, Second and Third Steps on the way to the summit. After topping out, we descend as far as possible – North Col Camp or Advanced Base Camp.

    • Day 31 — Descend to Base Camp Rest (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)

      We say goodbye to our mountain staff and hike the 12 miles back to Everest BC. We celebrate with fine alcohol and delicious food. An expedition we'll never forget.

    • Day 32 — Drive Base Camp to Shigatse

      We load our personal gear and selves into jeeps for the ride to the town of Shigatse. A long day of travel takes us across the Tibetan Plateau to our simple but clean hotel in Shigatse.

    • Day 33 — Drive Shigatse to Lhasa

      If our travel went smoothly this is a day for souvenir shopping, or palace viewing. Some team members might be able to fly home this evening, the rest of the team will depart the next day.

    • Day 34 — Depart For Home

      *Please note the above schedule is only one possible scenario. A mountain like Everest requires flexibility, and every year our climb is different.

      • Head

      • Smith I/O goggles

        These will be worn on stormy or windy days. Make sure you are getting a snug fit with lenses that are appropriate for bright and low-light conditions. Ventilation and anti-fog features are recommended.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Kaenon Klay sunglasses

        Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap recommended (Chums or Croakies).

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • SmartWool Balaclava

        We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet still comfy.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Eddie Bauer Telemetry First Ascent Beanie

        A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make that one of your hats fits under a helmet. We also recommend the Patagonia Lined Beanie.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Alpenglow Grey Flat Brim

        Grey never goes out of style, and neither will this hat! One of Adrian's favorites, this hat is made with 20% wool so it keeps your noggin warm on those cold days. For those that prefer a curved bill, this hat can take a nice bend quite well.

        $31.00 Read more
      • Alpenglow Expeditions Teal Face Mask

        The one and only teal Alpenglow face mask. This is a single layer face mask good at keeping the wind and sun off your face. A guide favorite with more uses than we can list here.

        $20.00 Read more
      • Black Diamond Vapor Helmet

        Easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first come, first serve basis.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Hands

      • Eddie Bauer Mountain Glove

        All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm. The Black Diamond basic work glove is also recommended.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Black Diamond Absolute Mitt

        These mittens should be warm and worn over either a liner glove or Windstopper glove. Down mittens are not required. You should choose a pair that you can still operate locking carabiners with.

        Buy on Blackdiamondequipment.com
      • Eddie Bauer Guide Glove

        Insulated GORE-TEX® gloves are the best way to keep your hands warm & dry.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Black Diamond Powerweight Glove

        These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.

        Buy on blackdiamondequipment.com
      • Feet

      • Sorel Caribou boot

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Western Mountaineering Flash down booties

        You’ll love having a warm, comfortable shoe to slip into when tent-bound.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • LaSportiva Hyper Mid GTX hiking boot

        Can be anything from a mid-weight waterproof hiking boot for moderate to rugged terrain with light/moderate backpacking loads to a light mountaineering boot. Think light weight though, as we will use our climbing boots for the more difficult terrain higher on the mountain.

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      • LaSportiva Olympus Mons

        Fully insulated, double boots with an integrated gaiter. These boots are essential for 8000 meter peaks.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • LaSportiva Bushido hiking shoe

        These light to mid-weight shoes are for every day use. The ideal shoe is comfortable to wear for multiple days and scrambles decently on rock. A Gore-tex lined shoe stays drier when hiking in rain or snow. High top hiking boots are heavy and unnecessary.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Lenz heated socks

        These are optional, but highly recommended. Worn on cold days high on the peak, they will keep your feet toasty in even the coldest conditions.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Smartwool Mountaineering Extra Heavy Crew Socks

        A wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. NO COTTON.

        Buy on smartwool.com
      • Darn Tough Cushion boot sock

        Your go-to mountain sock. It is very important to dial in your boot/ sock combo, as everyone will have a slightly different fit in their boots. Merino wool has become a guides favorite, and we have found these socks to be a solid performer.  NO COTTON.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Upper Body

      • Eddie Bauer Quantum Short-Sleeve T-Shirt

        Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days. The new wool blends are also an option. Patagonia Capilene 1 T-shirt and Icebreaker 150/200 weight shirt also recommended.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Resolution IR 1/4 Zip

        A poly-pro mid-layer that you will never take off. Fitted, light- weight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck-in and we recommend zipper collars for more ventilation.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Cloud Layer Pro 1/4 Zip

        A polarguard or fleece jacket. Warmer than your expedition weight top, but not as extreme as your big puffy jacket. Full zip is recommended. Patagonia Lightweight R4 Jacket and Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket are also recommended.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Ignitelite

        A simple, lightweight synthetic jacket. This item is good for layering systems and the Primaloft keeps you warm when wet.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Sandstone Soft Shell Jacket

        While this item isn’t required, we know that those who don’t have one wish they did! More breathable than Gore-tex, these jackets block wind and light precipitation. A windshirt is an option for this layer. Patagonia Guide Jacket and Black Diamond Induction Shell are also options.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Neoteric Shell Jacket

        A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it. Patagonia M10 jacket is also an option.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer XV Down Jacket

        A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight. Marmot Ama Dablam jacket and Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Parka are also good choices.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer XV Down Suit

        We HIGHLY recommend an 8000m insulated suit rather than separate top and bottom.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Lower Body

      • Eddie Bauer Guide Pro Short

        Throw these on under other layers for when the sun begins to beat, or you have a sudden urge to jump in a glacial lake. Lightweight, durable and comfortable. NO COTTON. Patagonia Baggies Shorts also recommended.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Guide Pro Alpine

        ou will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water- resistant. These pants should have an ankle zip so they will accommodate your mountain boot. Also recommended: Patagonia Alpine Guide Pant.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Guide Pro

        A lighter, more breathable version of the standard soft shell pants, will be key for aerobic hiking. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water-resistant. These pants should have an ankle zip so they will accommodate your mountain boot.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Igniter

        Full-length side zippers are recommended, for throwing on top of all of your layers.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Black Diamond Sharp End Pants

        Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.

        buy on blackdiamondequipment.com
      • Patagonia R1 Pant

        Fitted, light-weight and quick drying. The mid-weight will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures. Also recommended: Patagonia Capilene 4 pants.

        Buy on patagonia.com
      • Icebreaker long underwear

        Fitted, light-weight and quick drying. This base-layer will get you through a wide range of temperatures. NO COTTON.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Equipment

      • Petzl Ascension handled ascender

        Should have large opening for gloved hands, and an easy thumb trigger.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Pieps Avalanche Beacon

        A digital transceiver that is simple to use or that you are extremely comfortable using.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Nalgene 1 liter water bottle

        Two Lexan 1 liter, wide mouth bottles.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Black Diamond Serac crampon

        Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail. * crampons are also available to rent at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first come, first serve basis.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Black Diamond Spot Headlamp

        L.E.D. headlamps are required.. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Therm-a-rest NeoAir Therm sleeping pad

        72 inch long inflatable pad required. Make sure you also purchase and bring a repair kit + bag for the sleeping pad.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Petzl Altitude Harness

        Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first come, first serve basis.

        Buy on petzl.com
      • Petzl Glacier

        Non-technical ice tool. 50- 60 cm with a long waist leash. Make sure axe has a comfortable hold, and is lightweight. Black Diamond Raven also recommended.

        Buy on petzl.com
      • Accessory Cord

        (20’ of 7mm, 6’ of 3mm cord) Will be used to make jumar and tether system, This cord should be uncut and not kevlar. Sterling and Blue Water recommended.

        Read more
      • Petzl Reverso 4

        Light, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/ grooves for skinny ropes.

        Buy on petzl.com
      • Petzl Spirit

        Lightweight small carabiners are best, wire-gates are fine.

        Buy on petzl.com
      • Petzl Attache

        Lightweight small carabiners are best.

        Buy on petzl.com
      • Eddie Bauer Kara Koram -30F

        Rated -30F to -40F. For BC only, bags on mountain are provided. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Many climbers also like a silk liner.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Maximus Duffel

        At least one bag should be extremely durable, waterproof, and big! You should feel comfortable leaving it in a puddle for several hours. Remember dry clothes are hot commodities in the mountains! Large enough to fit everything you own, plus what you anticipate buying.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
      • Eddie Bauer Terrain 55 Pack

        Internal frame pack that is between 50 and 60 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body. Black Diamond Mission 50 pack also recommended.

        Buy on http://www.eddiebauer.com/
    • I see that Alpenglow climbs on the North side of the mountain. Why is that?

      For 2015 and beyond, we have moved our operations to the North Side of Everest. With increasing stability in Tibet being contrasted by increasing instability in Nepal, the significantly safer and less crowded route from the North Side is an obvious choice for our teams. Our team’s strengths cater well to the increased remoteness of the North Side. Our Sherpa, guides, and support staff are unanimous that responsible climbing teams must avoid the increasingly unpredictable icefall and politics found on Everest’s South Side. Many members of our team (including Sherpa, cooks, doctor, and guides) have worked extensively on the North Side and make our team one of the most experienced to offer climbs from Tibet.

    • What sort of experience is needed for Everest?

      In order to join our Everest expedition, climbers must have experience on an 8000 meter peak. Many climbers gain this experience by joining our expedition to Cho Oyu. Climbers must have solid ice and snow climbing experience, including the use of ice axe, crampons and fixed rope systems.

    • I really want to climb Mt. Everest, but I don’t have a lot of climbing experience. What do you recommend?

      Climbing Everest is a lifelong goal for many people. Often, an ascent of this peak is the crowning achievement of a climber’s high altitude career. Alpenglow Expeditions has very strict requirements to become a team member on one of our Everest expeditions, and it takes time to gain the necessary skills and experience. This is a multi year project for many people, starting with basic climbing instruction at one of our multi day climbing schools. Afterwards, larger and more complex mountains are attempted, culminating in an expedition to an 8000m peak, which is usually Cho Oyu. After all of this, a climber is now ready to be a team member on an attempt to climb Mt. Everest.

    • What is your guide to climber ratio?

      1:3 maximum guide to climber ratio. All guides are IFMGA qualified or aspirants working towards finishing their certification. This is the lowest member to guide ratio in the Himalaya.

    • What is your Sherpa to climber ratio?

      3:2 Sherpa to climber ratio. Having 3 Sherpa per 2 climbers ensures we have the strength necessary to carry loads, set camps, and assist climbers. All of our Sherpa on Everest have worked with us on many expeditions.

    • Do you have an Expedition Doctor?

      Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. She travels with the group and is in Base Camp throughout the expedition. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.

    • Where do you get your weather forecasts?

      Swiss weather forecasts. Having a quality forecast for Mount Everest maximizes both our safety and our summit success.

    • What level of fitness is required?

      Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.

    • How much oxygen per climber do you take?

      9 bottles of oxygen per climber. This allows us to use high-flow oxygen sleeping at Camps 2, 3 and 4, and to climb on a higher flow than other expeditions (2L from North Col-C2, and 4L from C2-C3, C3-C4, and C4-Summit-North Col), maximizing safety and success. Our Sherpa also climb and sleep on oxygen, which means they have more strength to focus on you and your ascent.

    • What kind of food will you have?

      Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a Western-trained cook staff. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.

    • Is WiFi available?

      Unlimited WIFI Internet in Base Camp, Interim Camp, Advanced Base Camp, and North Col Camp. We understand the modern need for technology, and this allows you to stay in touch with home and office via email, text message, and phone at no additional expense.

    • Is the Pre-acclimatization equipment included in the price?

      Pre-acclimatization using Hypoxico Altitude Training Systems. An eight-week rental is included in the expedition price, and use of the system (or equivalent pre- acclimatization) is a requirement for joining our Rapid Ascent expeditions.

    • Do I really need to purchase trip and rescue insurance?

      We strongly recommend purchasing both types of insurance. Trip insurance covers issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance. Rescue insurance can help cover costs in the event that you decide to end your expedition early. We recommend purchasing Travel Guard and Global Rescue. You can find links to both of these insurance companies by heading over to our Partners page.

Adrian Ballinger

Adrian Ballinger is one of the USA’s premier high-altitude mountain guides, and the only American guide to have both AMGA/IFMGA guide’s certification (one of roughly 100 in the USA) and more than 10 summits of 8,000 meter peaks (12 total, including 6 summits of Mt. Everest). As founder and head guide of Alpenglow Expeditions, Adrian has been guiding full-time for fifteen years and has led over 100 international climbing expeditions on 5 continents.

In 2011 he, along with 2 Sherpa partners, became the first people to summit three 8,000 meter peaks in only 3 weeks (Everest twice and Lhotse once). He is also the first person to ski Manaslu, the 8th tallest mountain in the world, from its summit, and the first American to successfully ski two 8,000-meter peaks. These personal successes are combined with Adrian’s passion for guiding and teaching others. Adrian has led expeditions where more than 100 clients have successfully summited Everest, Lhotse (the 4th tallest mountain in world), Cho Oyu (6th tallest) and Manaslu (8th tallest).

Whether on skis, in rock shoes, or mountain boots, Adrian thrives on sharing the big mountains with friends and clients, and helping them to build their skills and experience to be successful on the world’s most beautiful mountains. In the coming seasons Adrian plans on continuing to enjoy big-mountain skiing, climbing, and guiding in the Himalaya, South America, Alaska, and of course closer to “home” in Squaw Valley, CA. Adrian is a sponsored athlete for Eddie Bauer, La Sportiva, Petzl, Kaenon, Goal Zero, Hypoxico, Alpenglow Sports and High Altitude Fitness.

Learn more about Adrian at adrianballinger.com

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA - American Mountain Guide
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide

Zeb Blais

From bushwhacking miles of Manzanita in ski boots to traversing huge glaciers in exotic ranges, adventure draws Zeb in. Originally from Vermont, Zeb has been hooked on big mountains since his first ski tour in Jackson Hole and has pursued skiing, climbing and exploring ever since. Zeb has climbed and guided in the Himalaya, Alaska, Argentina, Mexico, Ecuador and Asia among others and he’s working hard to keep that list growing. Working as a mountain guide allows Zeb to share his passion for human powered movement in the mountains and to pass along what he’s learned along the way.

Zeb has successfully guided Mt Everest [29,029′], Mt Cho Oyu [26,906′] including a ski descent from the summit, Lobuche East [20,075′],  and four expeditions on Denali [20,320’], including a ski descent from the summit. He has completed 64 summits of Mount Rainier [14,410’]. Additional credentials include 12 summits of Mount Shasta [14,179’]; 5 summits of Mount Shuksan [9,100’]; 3 summits via Mount Baker [10,678’], including one ski descent from the summit, and two ski descents via the North Ridge; 2 summits of Aconcagua [22,841’]; 1 summit of Cotopaxi and 1 summit of Cayabme; 2 summits of Ixtacihuatl in Mexico; 3 summits of Orizaba in Mexico, including a ski descent from the summit; and numerous rock, alpine and ski summits from the Cascades, Sierra Nevada, Coast ranges and Rockies.

Zeb is an AMGA certified ski guide.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Ski Guide

Chad Peele

Chad Peele has been guiding for 15 years and works full time as a mountain guide. Based out of Ridgway Colorado, Chad spends his winters instructing and guiding on some of the best ice terrain the U.S. has to offer. Outside of Colorado he has traveled and guided extensively throughout North and South America with several trips to the Himalayas including Everest and Ama Dablam. When not in the Mountains Chad does clothing and equipment design for Eddie Bauer’s First Ascent outdoor line.

Chad is a AMGA certified Rock & Alpine guide.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
  • AMGA Certified Rock Guide

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    Mount Everest North Side Rapid Ascent Expedition