Alpenglow Expeditions’ Rapid-Ascent climbs are an entirely new way to approach big-mountain expeditions. After 15 years of guiding expeditions all over the world, including more than a dozen 8,000-meter peak expeditions, we have refined and distilled the acclimatization and climbing process to maximize safety, health, success, and enjoyment. Please contact us to discuss exactly what these shorter climbs entail.
- Summit the world’s tallest peak from the North Side – without the crowds or the risk of the South Side and Khumbu Icefall
- Experience the unique culture, environment and people of Tibet
- Climb Everest in half the time of traditional expeditions, with the North Side’s most professional team and best logistics and infrastructure
Mt. Everest, the tallest mountain in the world (29,035 feet/8,848 meters), is an incredible challenge and experience. Alpenglow’s unique format and extensive experience gives us the ability to achieve the highest levels of both safety and success. For 2015 and beyond, we have moved our operations to the North Side of Mt. Everest. With increasing stability in Tibet being contrasted by increasing instability in Nepal, the significantly safer and less crowded route from the North Side is an obvious choice for our teams. Our team’s strengths cater well to the increased remoteness of the North Side. Our Sherpa, guides, and support staff are unanimous that responsible climbing teams must avoid the increasingly unpredictable icefall and politics found on Everest’s South Side. Many members of our team (including Sherpa, cooks, doctor, and guides) have worked extensively on the North Side and make our team one of the most experienced to offer climbs from Tibet.
Alpenglow offers an exceptional level of competency, safety, and comfort to Everest expeditions. Our team will be limited to 9 members, with certified guides and the best Sherpa and cooks available (staff we have been working with for more than a decade). Our small group size allows us to adapt to changing conditions and weather far more easily than many commercial teams, which have become so large over the last five years that they have become difficult to manage. Our member to Sherpa (2:3) and member to guide ratios (3:1), the comforts of our Base Camp, our fresh and nutritious food, and our use of maximum oxygen are details that add up to a far more enjoyable experience and successful climb.
Historically, we have seen that over 30% of climbers on other teams head home long before attempting their summit push on Mt. Everest. This is generally for 3 reasons, all tied to the amount of time teams take “acclimatizing” on the mountain: the multiple trips up and down the mountain during acclimatization cause the climber to reassess the risk and go home, the climber’s weight loss, chronic sickness and progressive weakening at altitude cause them to call off the trip, or a family or work issue at home takes priority. Our goal with a 34-day itinerary is to keep all the necessary acclimatization, training, and mountain preparation, while minimizing the unnecessary waiting and down time of traditional expeditions. Use of the best technology available (including weather forecasting, efficient oxygen systems, and pre- acclimatization in hypoxic tents) and our team’s experience (and their early arrival and late departure to pre-set and clean the mountain’s camps and ropes), allows our team to minimize their time approaching Advanced Base Camp, while maximizing their chances of success.
Alpenglow Expeditions’ logistics, guiding, Base Camp staff, food, and equipment are of the absolute highest level possible. As with all of Alpenglow’s 8,000-meter peak expeditions, Everest is organized and led by IFMGA guide, Adrian Ballinger. Adrian is one of the most recognized guides in the Himalaya, with an impeccable safety record and twelve 8,000 meter peak summits, all while guiding or rope-fixing for guided teams. Adrian has extensive experience organizing complicated logistics for large Himalayan teams (including 6 years as lead guide for one of the Himalaya’s largest companies), as well as countless hours on the mountain rope-fixing with Sherpa, guiding members, and assisting and organizing rescues.
While many downplay the difficulty and hazards of climbing Mount Everest, Alpenglow maintains a deep respect for the nature of this mountain and you will never find us underestimating its potential dangers. We require a significant amount of experience from each of our members to ensure that you will feel comfortable on the peak, both with your own skills and of those of your teammates.