Interview with Christian Llivicura, IFMGA-certified Mountain Guide

Christian Llivicura, 24, is originally from Cuenca, Ecuador and now lives in Quito. He began guiding in 2018 and joined Alpenglow Expeditions in 2019. Christian received his IFMGA/ASEGUIM certification in June 2024.

Alpenglow Staff Robert Kyte connected with Christian to talk about his journey toward certification.

RK: What first got you interested in climbing? Is there a particular experience that motivated your decision to become a guide?

CL: My family has always been an outdoor family. Hiking was a big part of my life, and we’d spend lots of time in the mountains. My brother was the first one in our family who started climbing while I was racing dirtbikes, but at some point I went to the climbing gym when the dirtbike track closed. After I tried climbing, I never went back to dirtbikes. I decided this was what I wanted to do with my life.

I didn’t know much about the process of becoming a guide. My dad was a volunteer firefighter, and one of the courses he took was to learn ropework in Chamonix, and one of the instructors was an IFMGA guide. When my dad came home and explained to me what that meant, I realized that’s what I wanted to do. As soon as I finished high school, I started taking courses in Ecuador.

RK: Who have been your mentors, and how have they helped shape your life and career as a climber?

CL: I’ve had lots of mentors through the years between friends and instructors in the climbing community. But mostly, my mentor and partner has been my dad. He wasn’t a rock climber throughout his life – we actually started climbing together – but he’s a bit of a climbing geek. He’ll research and learn, and then he’ll teach me what he knows. I’ve also had friends who were further along in the guide training process, and I’ve been pretty lucky to learn from and work with the Alpenglow guides as well. I’ve looked up to them as long as I’ve known them.

Everyone has their own style, and what’s been really important to me is that the people I work and climb with are all authentic in their own style. It’s allowed me to know their real selves, and this has helped me find and shape my own style by learning a little bit from everyone.

How do you balance risk and ambition? How does this differ when climbing for yourself versus climbing as a guide?

The first step for me as a guide is to acknowledge risk(s) and then choose an objective that makes sense for everyone. If the route’s in bad shape, then I might just wait until the next season. For me, it’s about focusing on our goal and mitigating the risk wherever possible to find the best moment to climb.

My work as a guide is to make good decisions and make it back home safely, but it’s the same when climbing on my own. I want to come home safely too. I might push it a little closer to the line when I’m climbing for myself, but I still want to come home.

When you’re climbing for yourself, what about a particular climb draws you?

Generally, I’m a really easy going climber, and I’m less goal-oriented in the long term. What’s worked out for me so far has been when friends bring me ideas, and I’m totally down for them. I really like the expedition part of climbs, like traveling and experiencing the culture. Another thing that’s really key for me is who I’m climbing with. That’s what draws me more than anything.

As someone who has turned climbing into a career, how do you keep the fire going? What motivates you?

When I’m not in the mountains, I’m missing them already. But this can be tricky when I’m so focused on guiding. What works for me is to mix up my activities: when I’m back from guiding, I’ll go paragliding, or mountain biking. I still stay very active, but not just climbing. That really keeps the fire going for me.

How do you combat doubt, fear, and anxiety while on expedition?

I acknowledge the risks first and make a plan to deal with them. On a long expedition for example, I have to remember that I wanted to be there in the first place and remember that these feelings won’t last forever. It’s good for me to let them happen and go with the flow without letting them affect me negatively. I just try to let them be.

What are your hopes in terms of setting an example for the next generation?

To enjoy more. To do it for yourself more than to show off for others. Whatever you’re doing, do it for you. Be there, be present, and be authentic.

Someone with your skills and level of success could guide for anyone, anywhere. Why Alpenglow?

The short answer is this: if you’re a mountain guide, you want to work for Alpenglow. It’s such a cool company. It makes us feel safe in the mountains. Everyone who works in the office has been outside themselves, everyone is a badass at what they’re doing, and we’re always learning from each other. I feel supported at all times, whether I’m guiding or taking courses. Everyone is always making sure I have what I need. It feels like a family, I always wanted to work with Alpenglow, so I feel really lucky to be here.

Want to climb with Christian? Reach out today to schedule a meeting with our team and determine what expedition makes sense for you!