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Skiing Peak Lenin: Updates from the Field

Prepare for 8,000m with Alpenglow Expeditions' Peak Lenin Expedition. This climb serves as the perfect 7,000m preparation, an essential milestone for reaching higher altitudes. Experience multiple camps, glacial climbing, and an acclimatization rotation, all while enjoying exhilarating climbing at high altitude. As you ascend Peak Lenin, a majestic peak towering above the valley, you'll not only soak in stunning vistas but also acquire the expertise to advance towards 8,000m peaks. Embark on a transformative journey to elevate your climbing career.

It is commonly accepted that Peak Lenin is the most popular 7,000-meter peak, and for good reason: it’s beautiful, it’s tall, it’s accessible, and it’s not highly technical. Nonetheless, our Peak Lenin Rapid Ascent expedition the perfect training for bigger peaks in the 8,000m range, such as Cho Oyu and Mt. Everest.

This year, we’re psyched to be heading back on a private expedition to ski this stunning peak, which boasts roughly 9,000 feet of descent from summit to advanced base camp. Follow along here as we continue to get updates from lead guide Gaspar Navarrete.

A large white mountain is bathed in golden sunlight under a blue sky.
Looking up at Peak Lenin from 17,000′.

Acclimatization Rounds

Right now, Gaspar and Brant are hunkering down to wait out a storm. They recently did their first round off acclimatization with a hike from advanced base camp (14,400’/4,400m) to Camp 1 (17,400’/5,300m). Much of the route is climbable on fixed lines through the technical and exposed sections, and they were able to ski much of the way back down to camp.

Check back in a few days for more updates! After the storm has passed, the team is eyeing a short weather window to go for the summit.

New Snow and Avalanches

On July 5th, Gaspar reached out to our team to report 20cm of new snow at ABC (14,400′) and 50cm at Camp 1 (17,400′). They are expecting more new snow over the next 3 nights until the weather settles. So far, no one has reportedly reached the summit this season as the upper mountain is covered in unconsolidated snow. Other climbers on the route descending from C1 reported a few small avalanches along the route. Gaspar and Brant plan to instead climb and ski Yukhina, a nearby peak that sits around 16,800’/5,130m, where they skied excellent conditions a few days ago.

A vast white snowfield with many crevasses, and 3 small circles indicating climbers on the route.
The three circles above indicate climbers on the route beneath the massive ridge that eventually reaches the summit of Peak Lenin.

Too Much Snow

After waiting it out a few days, Gaspar and Brant came to the decision together to descend from ABC to Base Camp and ultimately pull the plug on the expedition. As is always the case, the mountain decides when it can be climbed safely. Gaspar reported that all other teams on Peak Lenin also seem to be departing, having reached a similar conclusion.

While we love to tell stories of success in the mountains, it’s important to note how we ultimately define success. At Alpenglow, a positive learning experience and a safe return home is most important. The summit is the goal, as we like to say, but the experience is the purpose.

Click HERE for a Peak Lenin Expedition Overview and schedule a meeting with our team to inquire about joining us in the future.


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