Mount Shasta 5-Day Mountaineering School
Mount Shasta 5-Day Mountaineering School
- June 13-17
- July 11-15
The Alpenglow Experience is Different
Our ApproachThis mountaineering school and North Side summit climb of Mount Shasta is designed to prepare aspiring mountaineers for high-altitude peaks around the world.
With two days of skills training on Mount Shasta’s Hotlum Glacier, it is the perfect opportunity to learn mountaineering skills here in California. The Northeast Side on Mount Shasta holds numerous complex routes that cross massive sheets of ice; perfect for glacial travel, crevasse rescue and snow travel skills work.
MOUNTAINEERING SKILLS DAY ON MOUNT SHASTA:
Our California mountain guides will help you learn the basic skills of mountaineering:
– Introduce basic concepts of snow and ice climbing
– Become familiar with equipment choices, use and inspection.
– Practice knots, hitches and basic rope-work
Climbing a snow-covered peak, like Mount Shasta can be difficult, and the specific challenges that we typically encounter can easily add unnecessary time or risk to your day. After hundreds of mountaineering expeditions all over the world, our Tahoe guides are experts in mountaineering techniques. This mountaineering course is crafted to deliver the skills, knowledge and techniques necessary to start (or further) your mountaineering career.
MOUNTAINEERING SKILLS YOU WILL LEARN:
– Introduction to Mount Shasta’s alpine environment
– Hazard recognition
– Overview of equipment
– Moving over steep snow
– Crampons and Ice axe use
– Diagonal and direct ascent and descent
– Self arrest
– Basic rope-work
– Knots and hitches
– Snow and anchors
-Belaying and rappelling
– Guided vs non-guided rope-work
– Strategies to increase security
GLACIER TRAVEL AND CREVASSE RESCUE DAY ON MOUNT SHASTA:
Traveling on glacial terrain can be inherently dangerous, difficult and complicated due to the variable nature of the terrain, the limited ability to scope out the hazards in advance and the serious consequences of falling into a crevasse. Even a minor fall into a crevasse can negatively affect the safety and success of the adventure.
Preventing a fall, or limiting the potential severity of a fall, into a crevasse while moving efficiently is the goal of glacier travel and requires practice and attention to detail. Further; if a fall does occur, rapid, organized and safe rescue is the goal of crevasse rescue.
GOALS OF THE DAY:
– Introduce basic concepts of glacier travel and crevasse rescue.
– Become familiar with equipment choices, use and inspection.
– Practice roped travel, self-rescue and partner rescue.
– Choosing how to travel on glaciated terrain is usually the first and often most difficult decision to make.
There are two basic ways to address glacier travel safety and they usually depend on the activity and/or the perceived level of hazard:
– Having the team roped up in advance and pre-equipped for self and team rescue. This is the more traditional mountaineering glacier travel approach.
– Traveling unroped and having rescue equipment available for team rescue. This is most common for heli ski and ski mountaineering descents.
Choosing how to rescue is the next difficult decision to make and requires a specific skill set and significant practice. We will dive into both of these approaches and learn about the intricacies of both travel and rescue in each situation. Basic skills covered throughout the day include:
– Introduction to the glaciated environment
– Anatomy of a glacier
– Hazard recognition
– Overview of equipment
– Basic Rope-work
– Knots and hitches
– Tie in methods and spacing
– Team size and how that affects security
– Moving as a team
– Strategies to increase security
– Crevasse Rescue
– Overview of incident response to a crevasse fall
– Snow anchors and load transfers
– Lowering systems
– Raising systems
– Rope ascending and descending
MOUNT SHASTA SUMMIT BID
After spending the last two days developing the skills necessary for a successful summit of Mount Shasta, it will be time for our own summit bid. An Alpine Start will kick off our day, as we move under the cover of the stars towards the summit. We’ll utilize all of our new skills as we climb the beautiful North Side route of Mount Shasta. After a short celebration at the summit of Mount Shasta, one of California’s most iconic peaks, we’ll begin our descent back to base camp where will we get some much needed rest before trekking back to the trailhead the following day.
The Hotlum Glacier is our first choice for this itinerary. However, depending on conditions, our guides will occasionally select a different route to accomplish the same goals.
Interested in this trip with a ski descent? Check out our Mount Shasta West Face Ski!
WHO CAN PARTICIPATE?
Aspiring mountaineers with excellent physical fitness who want to gain the basic skills of glacial travel and also reach a fun, challenging summit.
WHAT’S INCLUDED:
– Food on the mountain
– Group Gear: Tents, Camp Kitchen, etc. (Does not include bowl, fork, spoon, sleeping bag, or sleeping pad)
– Ropes and other Technical Equipment (Does not include mountaineering boots)
– Wilderness Permits
– Tahoe Guide Fees
THE ALPENGLOW DIFFERENCE
With countless expeditions to high-altitude peaks around the world over the last 15 years, we bring a wealth of experience and knowledge to our beloved “home mountain” of Mount Shasta. Our teaching and guiding philosophy has been honed from the flanks of the Himalayan giants to the technical peaks of Peru, and we are beyond excited to be able to bring our program to this fantastic mountain. In addition to our international expedition roots, we are accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), being one of the very few guide services in the region to hold such a high standard. Each of our guides is trained by the AMGA in the terrain in which they operate, and the program is supervised by internationally licensed IFMGA mountain guides. This high standard, along with our many years of experience, translates to a fantastic mountain adventure!
Technical
Fitness
- Day 1
- Ascend to Camp
8:00am: Meet and Greet in Town and brief for your trip
10:00am: Depart for Brewer Creek or Northgate trailhead
11:30am-4:00pm: Hike to camp
4:00pm-8:00pm: Campcraft training, dinner, and an overview of the next day’s training
8:00pm: Bed - Day 2
- Skills Training on the Glacier
7:30am: Breakfast
8:30am-3:30pm: Basic Mountaineering skills training
3:30pm-7:30pm: Dinner & evening training
8:00pm: Bed - Day 3
- Skills Training on the Glacier
7:30am: Breakfast
8:30am-3:30pm: Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue skills training
3:30pm-7:30pm: Dinner & evening training
8:00pm: Bed - Day 4
- Summit Bid via Hotlum Glacier
1:00am-3:00am: (conditions dependent) Alpine start
11:00am-2:00pm: (conditions dependent) Turnaround time
Back in camp by mid-afternoon - Day 5
- Descend to Trailhead
7:30am: Breakfast
8:30am: Depart for trailhead
11:30am: Arrive at trailhead
Meet Your Mount Shasta Guides.
Mount Shasta Questions
While no outdoor adventure can be completely free of risk without losing the essence of the activity, hiring a professional guide is a fantastic way to manage and mitigate this risk. Activities like skiing and climbing have what we call “inherent risk”, which can be defined as a risk that cannot be completely mitigated by a professional. That is part of playing in the mountains. We encourage you to reach out to the office if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
Please click here to review our domestic cancellation policy
Yes! A large portion of our business is designed around custom adventures. Booking a private day gives you the freedom to tailor the day around your goals, pace, and group size.
This intro to mountaineering course is an entry level program, designed to teach you all the skills you need to begin your mountain climbing career. While you do need excellent general fitness, no climbing experience is necessary.
Mount Shasta Equipment List
Hat
Bring your favorite baseball hat for shelter from the sun. No white under the brim – the reflection off of it from the sun is blinding.
Recommended: Alpenglow Hat
Beanie
A comfortable, warm well-fitting hat that covers your ears. Make sure that one of your hats fits under a helmet.
Recommended: Black Diamond Levels Beanie
Balaclava
We recommend a tight-fitting balaclava that is worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible, but is comfortable enough to wear for hours.
Recommended: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Balaclava
Sunglasses
Must have dark lenses. Minimal light should come in below, above, or around the sides of the lenses.“Wrap” style is best. Ventilation is important and a retainer strap is very useful (Chums or Croakies).
Recommended: Vaurnet Ice Rounds
Neck Gaiter (Buff)
A multi-purpose neck gator that can also be worn under your hat. Make sure that it covers as much skin as possible and yet is still comfy.
Recommended: Alpenglow Buff
Liner Gloves
These gloves keep the inside of your mitts or other gloves from accumulating sweat on the inside and turning inside out when you take them off, as well as provide additional insulation.
Recommended: Black Diamond Lightweight Wooltech Gloves
Lightweight Gloves
All-around gloves for mountaineering, backcountry skiing, and hiking. These gloves (and similar options) are warm, wind-resistant, durable and have a sure grip. You will rarely take these gloves off. They should be snug-fitting, and have some sort of reinforced palm.
Recommended: Black Diamond Tour Gloves
Midweight Gloves
These gloves should be full GORE-TEX®, and insulated. These will be the workhorse glove for any expedition.
Recommend: Black Diamond Mission MX Gloves
Warm Socks
A wool synthetic blend. Pure rag wool socks are not nearly as effective in wicking moisture or retaining their shape and reducing blisters. Bring a few pairs of these socks. NO COTTON.
Recommended: Darn Tough Mountaineering Sock
Mountaineering Boot (4,000m)
Should be warm single boots that have a stiff sole and accept a step-in crampon, or double boots if you have very cold feet. The boots should be comfortable, have adequate wiggle room for your toes, and your heel should not lift more than 1/8 of an inch when walking.
Recommended Early Season (April-June): La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX
Recommended Late Season (July-August): La Sportiva Trango Tech GTX
Lightweight Top
Ultra-light base layer that effectively wicks moisture away from your body and is breathable. Quick-dry is important as well. One light-colored shirt is recommended for extremely sunny days.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Lightwire Short Sleeve
Sun Hoodie
Lightweight, long-sleeve sun hoody that is great for protecting from the sun.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Alpenglow Hoody
Long Sleeve Base Layer
A long sleeve base layer that is fitted, lightweight and quick drying. Make sure it is long enough to tuck in.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient Crew
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Crew
Mid-Weight Warm Layer
A polar guard or fleece jacket. This mid-layer will be worn over your base layer most of the trip.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Quarter Zip
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Solution Quarter Zip
Mid-Weight Puffy Jacket
A simple, lightweight puffy jacket. This item is good for layering systems and staying warm. We recommend 800-fill down that is packable and resists inclement weather.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Jacket
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Approach Down Jacket
Soft Shell Jacket
More breathable than Gore-tex, these soft shell jackets block wind and light precipitation and are great as an outer layer and warm layer under your parka.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody
Hard Shell Jacket
A lightweight, waterproof and breathable jacket WITH A HOOD that can withstand extreme weather conditions. Make sure you have pit-zips and if you are using an old jacket, re-waterproof it.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Liquid Point Shell
Down Parka
A puffy jacket with a hood that will keep you warm during the coldest of conditions. The higher the quality down, the better (800-fill is best). However, be sure the jacket is still lightweight.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Vision Down Parka
Base Layer Bottoms
Fitted and quick drying. This piece will be a base-layer that will get you through a wide range of temperatures
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Coefficient LT Pants
Soft-Shell Alpine Pant
You will spend most of your days in these pants. Choose Schoeller® or a soft-shell equivalent. Breathable + water-resistant.
Men’s Recommended: Black Diamond Men’s Dawn Patrol Pants
Women’s Recommended: Black Diamond Women’s Dawn Patrol Pants
Hard Shell Climbing Pant
Your waterproof bottom layer for extreme weather days. Make sure you have water-resistant zippers, crampon patches + good pockets.
Recommended Men’s: Black Diamond Men’s Recon Stretch Pants
Recommended Women’s: Black Diamond Women’s Recon Stretch Pants
Helmet
An easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Vision Helmet – MIPS
Mountaineering Harness
Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Couloir
Mountaineering Crampons
Steel crampons with anti-balling plates are required (so that snow does not build-up in the base of your foot). Make sure that crampons have a heel bail and that they fit snugly on your ski or snowboard boots. Crampons are available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow Expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons
General Mountaineering Axe
One non-technical climbing axe. The tool should be approx. 55cm- 65cm long and comfortable to hold. *Ice axes are also available to rent (for our introductory climbing courses) at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first-come, first-serve basis.
Recommended: Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe
Technical Kit
While the technical equipment needed for a specific objective and season varies, this basic kit is a great baseline. Your guide will bring gear for you to use during your course, but participants are encouraged to bring some or all of this if you own it or are interested in purchasing it.
1 Cordalette (6mm x 5m/16.4′)
4 locking carabiners
2 non-locking carabiners
1 double-length Dyneema sling
Small prusik loop (6mm x 112cm/44″)
Auto-blocking belay device (eg. ATC guide)
Micro Traxion or similarClimbing Pack: 60-75L
Internal frame pack that is between 60 and 75 liters. Either purchase a matching pack cover, or use garbage bags as liners. Make sure the pack is fitted to YOUR body.
Recommended: Black Diamond Mission 75
Hydration System
Should carry 70-100 ounces. Must be durable and have a reliable closure system. Recommended: MSR Dromlite 2L with Hydration Tube
Two 1L Nalgene Bottles
Two 1 Liter Wide Mouth Nalgene bottles.
Recommended: Nalgene 1 L wide mouth
Headlamps
Please bring two L.E.D. Headlamps. One will be intended as a lightweight backup. L.E.D. headlamps are required. Make sure they have 3+ bulbs. Bring extra batteries. We highly recommend a tilting lamp.
Recommended: Black Diamond Storm 450
Backup Headlamp Recommended: Black Diamond Deploy 325
Trekking Poles
Make sure that they are durable, lightweight + easily adjustable.
Recommended: Black Diamond Pursuit FLZ Trekking Poles
Sleeping Bag (15º)
Rated to 15º F. Choose an 800+ Fill Premium Goose Down bag. Make certain that the sleeping bag is the right length. DON’T FORGET A COMPRESSION SACK FOR THE SLEEPING BAG. Granite Gear Compression Sack is desired.
Recommended: Mountain Hardwear Phantom 15
Foam Sleeping Pad
Foldable foam sleeping pad for sleeping and using as a sit-pad.
Recommended: Thermarest Z-Lite Sleeping pad
Alpenglow is the best
“I’ve been climbing with Alpenglow for over ten years. After my first expedition, I knew I’d found the best team. I feel like I’m a member of the Alpenglow family, and have come to know and love many of their guides, office staff, and programs. Alpenglow is truly the best!”
Evan M
Mt. Shasta Stories
The Shasta Effect with Isaac Laredo
This week I connected with Alpenglow guide Isaac Laredo to talk about Mt. Shasta. With experience guiding in Northern California, the Eastern Sierra, Ecuador, Bolivia, and Japan, Mt. Shasta represents the place where his guiding career began in earnest.Read the story