My original reason for climbing Ama Dablam was very simple: It was the most beautiful mountain I had ever laid eyes on. From the first moment I saw a photo of the peak I was hooked. The way she rises from the valley, its snowcapped flanks glimmer like a jewel high above the Khumbu valley. The name Ama Dablam actually means “mother’s necklace”. The two main ridges visible from the valley resemble outstretched arms of a mother (Ama), and the iconic hanging glacier (the Dablam) is named for the traditional pendant worn by Sherpa women. The journey to the mountain is an unbelievable experience on its own, climbers walk the ancient footpath that wind their way higher and higher, passing numerous small villages and Tea Houses along the way. A visit to the historic trading town of Namche Bazaar is worthy of a write up of its own!
A climb of the southwest ridge is fantastic and travels up through a remarkable amount of diverse terrain. The green vegetation of Base Camp slowly loosens its grip as the trail gains the base of the ridge. Soon the world is filled with rock – clean, bullet hard rock. Camping on the ridge is a wild experience, the exposure and position are out of this world. Near where we camp, the snow and ice begin to take over. Crampons and ice tools come out and the route continues up.
Climbing the upper snow slopes of a mountain like this feels like you are climbing a big wall on the moon – the exposure is incredible. And then the top-out. Views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and countless other Himalayan giants fill the space around Ama. Putting this experience into words is essentially impossible.
Alpenglow Expeditions has been guiding this incredible peak for years, with literally dozens of summits between the guides. Time and time again, our team looks forward to returning to this mountain in the fall……will you join us?
For more information on our Ama Dablam Rapid Ascent expedition and other international expeditions check out our website. For any questions call our office at 877-873-5376 or send us an email info@alpenglowexpeditions.