Lhakpa Ri Rapid Ascent™

16 Days in Tibet / (Skill level: Intermediate)

Price per person

$22,500
  • Next Available: May 01, 2020 - May 16, 2020

About this trip

Climb Lhakpa Ri in 16 days with Alpenglow Expeditions Rapid Ascent™. This is a fantastic opportunity to test your skills at 7000m while gaining a deep insight into the inner workings of a Mt Everest expedition.

Overview

  • skill level

    Intermediate

  • Duration

    16 Days

Standing across from the North Face of Mt Everest, Lhakpa Ri is an incredible 7000m peak with arguably the best view of Everest. If climbing Everest is on your list but you need more experience, you can’t beat Lhakpa Ri in terms of location. If you are not interested in climbing Everest but want a front row seat to take in the mountain, this is your opportunity.

Leaving from advanced base camp on Everest, you’ll trek across the East Rongbuk glacier on summit day. The climbing itself is moderate, with gentle slopes protecting the approach before gaining the north ridge and finally topping out on the summit. This is a perfect climb for those who have prior glacier travel experience and have been to altitudes of 18,000’ or higher.

With Rapid Ascent™, the entire expedition begins at home as you pre-acclimatize for 4 weeks in conjunction with your other team members using Hypoxico altitude tents. Your goal during this phase is to get your body adapted to altitudes up to 16,500’. You’ll be sending us daily stats on your progress and our expedition doctor checks these on a weekly basis to ensure that everything is going well.

Following the 4 weeks of pre-acclimatizing you’ll fly to Lhasa, Tibet, where you will meet your guide and fellow climbing team. After a day of visiting Lhasa and its cultural sites, you’ll be on your way to Everest Base Camp. Driving through the Tibetan plateau is a truly unique experience.

After a few days of acclimatizing in base camp, you’ll begin moving with your team towards advance base camp. This is the highest camp you’ll sleep at and will give you an insider’s view to how an Everest climbing team operates before making their summit push.

Your summit push leaves advance base camp in the middle of the night, crossing the East Rungbuk glacier towards your objective. Gently angled slopes will be a pleasure to climb as you are constantly reminded of the large peak opposite of your route. Summit day will be about 6-8 hours to the top, with a round trip time of about 12 hours. Not bad for a 7000m peak in the Himalaya.

Our Lhakpa Ri climb is guided by one or more of Alpenglow’s AMGA/IFMGA certified lead guides. This certification is the highest possible training available to guides, and only the most experienced and dedicated attain it. We combine our guides’ experience with our top tier logistics operator to create an amazing experience in the mountains. Our small team size and low ratio of climbers to guides (4:1) ensures that you stay healthy and strong, and are able to enjoy each component of your experience.

Alpenglow’s combination of pre-acclimatization at home with the best guiding and in-country logistics has revolutionized Himalayan expeditions. The same system has reduced expedition length on peaks like the Seven Summits by 30-50%. On this Himalayan expedition, we utilize the same pre-acclimatization, quality of logistics, and guiding team. We work with you not only on the mountain, but also throughout your pre-acclimatization and preparation. Our goal is for each climber to be healthy, strong, and prepared for their summit climb of Lhakpa Ri. Join Us.

Preparation

  • Fitness

    Climbers must be in excellent physical shape to join this expedition. This is perhaps the most important aspect of high altitude climbing, and cannot be stressed enough. Regular, challenging exercise for many months in advance of departure is the only way to gain the necessary level of fitness that is needed on big peaks. We highly recommend a structured training regime with a gym or personal trainer to assist you in preparing for climbing at altitude. Please contact us for more information on physical training.

  • Technical Experience

    Must be able to climb moderate rock, ice, and snow terrain, often with an alpine pack on your back. You should be comfortable with camp craft in high-altitude camps, and able to perform at a high level for multiple days in a row at altitude.

  • Altitude Experience

    Alpenglow requires that climbers have prior experience at altitudes of 18,000’/5500 meters. We offer many great options for gaining this experience, including opportunities in Ecuador, Peru, Kilimanjaro, and Elbrus in Russia.

    • Day 0 — Fly to Chengdu, China

      Team members must stay at least 4 hours in Chengdu in order to pick up their paperwork that allows travel in Tibet. Alpenglow arranges for these documents to be sent to the hotel of choice. This is considered a travel day and is not part of the Alpenglow program.

    • Day 1 — Fly to Lhasa (12,000 feet/3,650 meters)

      These flights are usually in the morning, getting climbers to Lhasa mid-day. From the airport it is an hour drive into Lhasa, where we have a bit of time to walk around the old city, and enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner. Climbers are responsible for all flights.

    • Day 2 — Visit the Potala Palace and Jokhang Monastary, drive to Shigatse (12,500 feet/3800 meters)

      The Potala Palace, former home of the Dalai Lama is one of Tibet’s most important cultural sites, and imperative to beginning to understand this unique place. After a morning exploring with our local guide, we drive a few hours along the now paved road to Everest, stopping for the night in Shigatse, and our simple but clean hotel.

    • Day 3 — Drive Shigatse to Shegar (14,206 feet/4,330 meters)

      We continue along the Tibetan Plateau to Shegar where we spend one more night before heading all the way to base camp.

    • Day 4 — Drive Shegar to Everest Base Camp (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)

      We continue along the Tibetan Plateau until we begin to see views of Everest. From there we leave the main road and follow the valley to the Rongbuk Monastery. After exploring the monastery and lunch, we continue driving into our base camp, where we settle in.

    • Day 5 — Rest in Everest Base Camp

      Our camp offers excellent food, comfortable tents, and important amenities (heated dining tents, electricity, etc.). We allow our bodies to continue their acclimatization, and spend the day organizing equipment and logistics.

    • Day 6 — Rest in Everest Base Camp

      Today we do an acclimatization hike above camp, returning in time for lunch.

    • Day 7 — Acclimatization at Everest Base Camp

      Final day in base camp. We spend this day resting up and making final preparations for our move to ABC.

    • Day 8 — Everest Base Camp to Interim Camp (19,000 feet/5,800 meters)

      We split the move to Advanced Base Camp in two, today moving 6 miles to Interim Camp. While this camp is simple, we still ensure comfortable sleeping, dining, and excellent food. The location is incredible, surrounded by penitentes (ice towers).

    • Day 9 — Interim Camp to Advanced Base Camp (21,300 feet/6,400 meters)

      Six miles of hiking along the moraine and glacier bring us to Advanced Base Camp, our home on the side of the East Rongbuk Glacier.

    • Day 10 — Acclimatize in ABC

      Our bodies need time to acclimatize to over 21,000 feet. We utilize the days re-visiting required fixed rope and climbing skills, taking short acclimatization hikes, and eating and resting in our impressive camp.

    • Day 11 — Acclimatize in ABC

      One more day of acclimatizing before we make our push up Lhakpa Ri.

    • Day 12 — Summit Day on Lhakpa Ri (23,114 feet/7,045 meters)

      A 6-8 hour climb takes us from the edge of the East Rongbuk Glacier up progressively steepening snow slopes. On the way we’re greeted with astounding views of the north face of Everest. Round trip we should be in the 12 hour time range and back to ABC for celebratory food and alcohol.

    • Day 13 — Rest in ABC / Weather Day

      Today we can relax and rest in ABC, taking in the sights of the North Col. We can also use this day as a weather day if needed.

    • Day 14 — Descend to Base Camp (17,000 feet/5,200 meters)

      We say goodbye to our mountain staff and hike the 12 miles back to Everest BC.

    • Day 15 — Drive Base Camp to Shigatse (6hrs) or Lhasa (10hrs)

      We load our personal gear and selves into jeeps for the ride to the town of Shigatse or if we’re feeling up for it we can go all the way to Lhasa. A long day of travel takes us across the Tibetan Plateau.

    • Day 16 — Depart for Home

      Flights preferably after 2pm

  • Coming Soon

    • What is your guide to climber ratio?

      1:4 maximum guide to climber ratio. All guides are IFMGA qualified or aspirants working towards finishing their certification. This is the lowest member to guide ratio in the Himalaya.

    • Do you have an expedition doctor?

      Expedition doctor, Monica Piris, has been on fourteen 8,000-meter peak expeditions. While Dr. Piris does not travel with our team to Everest, she is in 24 communication with our expedition leaders. Dr. Piris also works with each member on his or her pre-acclimatization program.

    • Where do you get your weather forecasts?

      We subscribe to a specialized meteorological forecast service based out of Switzerland. Having a quality forecast for Lhakpa Ri maximizes both our safety and our summit success.

    • What kind of food will you have?

      Imported and local foods of the highest quality, combined with a Western-trained cook staff. Alpenglow has the best food on the mountain, ensuring your strength and health throughout the expedition.

    • Is the pre-acclimatization equipment included in the price?

      Pre-acclimatization using Hypoxico Altitude Training Systems. A four-week rental is included in the expedition price, and use of the system (or equivalent pre- acclimatization) is a requirement for joining our Rapid Ascent™ expeditions.

    • Do I really need to purchase trip and rescue insurance?

      We strongly recommend purchasing trip insurance, and we require rescue insurance on all expeditions. Trip insurance covers issues that would cause you to cancel your trip in advance. Rescue insurance can help cover costs in the event that you decide to end your expedition early. We recommend Global Rescue for both types of insurance .

    • Do you require a deposit to secure my spot on the trip?

      A deposit of 20% is required for private expeditions. Deposits are due when registering for an expedition, and can be paid by check made out to “Alpenglow Expeditions, LLC.” All payments should be mailed to Alpenglow Expeditions at P.O. Box 3122, Olympic Valley, CA 96146 or sent via wire transfer or paid by credit card. If wiring payment, please contact us for bank details and be certain that you are covering ALL fees!

      Deposits are non-refundable and non-transferable. This is not a flexible policy. Planning our trips takes significant time and has non-refundable costs as well.

    • When is final payment due?

      Balances are due 90 days before the expedition departs from the United States. Payment should be made as described above.

Logan Talbott

co-owner / chief guide

Logan has been guiding professionally for over a decade in the disciplines of Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering. When not out guiding, Logan spends time in the office helping the team with the day-to-day operations of the business. From one day ascents of El Capitan to big Alpine climbs in the Himalaya, from ski descents on Denali to backyard ski tours in Lake Tahoe, he can’t help but smile when out running around the hills. Logan is an AMGA/IFMGA mountain guide, an Avalanche course leader with AIARE, as well as a wilderness EMT. In addition to guiding, Logan has extensive experience in mountain rescue, having worked for rescue teams in both Yosemite and Denali National Parks, and volunteering locally for Tahoe Nordic SAR. When not out in the hills, he lives in Truckee, CA with his lovely wife Lynette and daughter Maggie.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA - American Mountain Guide
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide

Gaspar Navarrete

Gaspar hails from Ecuador, and has been guiding for over 18 years, and climbing since he was 12. He has extensive experience in Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Patagonia, Aconcagua, the Himalaya, the Cascades, the Alps and the Pyrenees. Gaspar has established new routes in both Ecuador and Bolivia. As an active instructor with the Ecuadorian School for Mountain Guides, he has trained in Ecuador, Bolivia and France. He is a Wilderness First Responder, and has spent a great deal of time working at high altitude.

Gaspar joined one of Quito’s oldest climbing clubs at a young age, which gave him the opportunity to mentor under very experienced climbers. He considers the Andes, including Patagonia, his home, and he love to share his enthusiasm for the mountains, the Andean traditions, food and culture with his guests.

Gaspar is an ASEGUIM/IFMGA mountain guide

Guide Certifications
  • ASEGUIM
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide

Chad Peele

Chad Peele has been guiding for over 15 years and works full time as a mountain guide. Based out of Ridgway Colorado, Chad spends his winters instructing and guiding on some of the best ice terrain the U.S. has to offer. Outside of Colorado he has traveled and guided extensively throughout North and South America with several trips to the Himalayas including multiple summits of both Everest and Ama Dablam. When not in the Mountains Chad does clothing and equipment design for Eddie Bauer’s First Ascent outdoor line.

Chad is an AMGA Rock & Alpine guide.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
  • AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Ray Hughes

Ray is an IFMGA / AMGA Licensed Mountain Guide. His passion for the mountains ignited while growing up in Northern California, exploring the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges, followed by years honing his mountain skills in Colorado and Switzerland. As one of our core guides, Ray brings the same excitement to guiding and instructing in Lake Tahoe as skiing and alpine guiding in Europe to expeditions anywhere in the world. Sharing experiences, culture, and beautiful places with others blurs the line between work and play.

He is an AIARE Avalanche Course Leader and an American Avalanche Association professional member. Ray also works as a snow safety consultant for professional winter sport athletes and photographers.

He was a 4 x All American in Track and Field and the 250th American to ever run the Mile under 4:00, but now enjoys being an average trail jogger.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA - American Mountain Guide
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide

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    Lhakpa Ri Rapid Ascent™

Lhakpa Ri Rapid Ascent™

Climb Lhakpa Ri in 16 days with Alpenglow Expeditions Rapid Ascent™. This is a fantastic opportunity to test your skills at 7000m while gaining a deep insight into the inner workings of a Mt Everest expedition.