Self Rescue for Rock Climbers

1 Day in California, Lake Tahoe / (Skill level: Intermediate)

Price per person

$199.00

About this trip

You're experienced, but what do you do when your leader falls and can't get down on her own? This course includes technical systems review, including belaying off the anchor, belay escapes and rope ascending and descending.

Overview

  • skill level

    Intermediate

  • Duration

    1 Day

So you know how to climb, maybe you are even proficient at lead climbing. Have you ever thought about what would happen if something goes wrong? What if the climber you are belaying gets injured, and you are unable to lower them back to the ground? Simple accidents like this have been the beginning of many serious injuries and even fatalities. With some basic theory and techniques, you will have the tools needed to confront these problems in a calm, systematic manner. This one day skills course will teach you how to use the equipment you already are carrying, to improvise rescue systems and get you and your team out of a jam. Every climber needs to know these skills!

Skills covered:
• Technical systems review, including belaying off the anchor
• Belay escapes
• Rope ascending and descending
• Counter balance ascending and descending with an injured climber
• Raising systems, including 3:1 and 5:1
• Lowering systems with a knot pass

Prerequisites: Basic outdoor rock climbing experience required. Lead climbing experience is recommended, but not required.

 

Alpenglow Expeditions operates under a special use permit from the Tahoe, Inyo and Eldorado National Forests. This institution is an equal opportunity provider. 

Preparation

  • Technical Experience

    Guests should be familiar with technical rock climbing equipment and its basic uses.

    • 8am — Meet & Greet

      Meet your guide and fellow classmates. Make introductions and set goals for the day.

    • 8:45am - 12pm — Morning Skills Session

      Rock protection overview and placement. Equalization principals. Anchor station and rope management.

    • 12pm - 12:30pm — Lunch

      Take a break and review the morning session while enjoying lunch.

    • 12:30pm - 3:30pm — Afternoon Skills Session

      Belaying off the anchor vs. the harness. Edge safety. Anchoring with natural objects.

      • Equipment

      • Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device

        Light, easy to use + simple. Should have teeth/grooves for skinny ropes.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Nalgene 1 liter water bottle

        Two Lexan 1 liter, wide mouth bottles.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Black Diamond Vapor Helmet

        Easily adjustable lightweight helmet that fits with hat and Balaclava. Make sure this is a climbing-specific helmet. *Climbing helmets are also available to rent at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first come, first serve basis.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
      • Petzl Sitta harness

        Must have belay loop, gear loops and adjustable or stretchable leg loops so that you can layer up underneath it. Easy to pack, lightweight + comfortable. *Harnesses are also available to rent at no charge from Alpenglow expeditions on a first come, first serve basis.

        Buy on Backcountry.com
    • What kind of experience should I have before taking this course?

      Climbers must be confident in use of equipment including belaying, rappelling and use of top rope systems. Lead climbing experience is recommended but not required.

    • What is the typical group size for this course?


      Group sizes can vary depending on the course, however our maximum ratio of clients to guides is 4:1.

    • I am an experienced rock climber but I do not have a harness or helmet with me. Do you have this available to rent?


      While owning your own gear is always the best option, Alpenglow does provide rental gear at no additional cost. Equipment availability varies and is on a first come first serve basis. Please contact the office to inquire about borrowing gear!

    • Do I need to bring a lunch?

      Yes, you should bring a sack lunch and water bottle for this full day course.

Logan Talbott

director of operations / chief guide

Logan has been guiding professionally for over a decade in the disciplines of Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering. When not out guiding, Logan keeps things running smoothly as the director of operations at Alpenglow Expeditions. From one day ascents of El Capitan to big Alpine climbs in the Himalaya, from ski descents on Denali to backyard ski tours in Lake Tahoe, he can’t help but smile when out running around the hills. Logan is a fully certified AMGA/IFMGA mountain guide, an Avalanche course leader with AIARE, as well as a wilderness EMT. In addition to guiding, Logan has extensive experience in mountain rescue, having worked for rescue teams in both Yosemite and Denali National Parks, and volunteering locally for Tahoe Nordic SAR. When not out in the hills, he lives in Truckee, CA with his lovely wife Lynette and daughter Maggie.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA - American Mountain Guide
  • IVBV IFMGA UIAGM - Mountain Guide

Ray Hughes

Ray’s passion for the mountains ignited while growing up in Northern California, exploring the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges, followed by years honing his mountain skills in Colorado and Switzerland. The lure of bigger objectives led him to travel throughout Western Canada, Iceland, and the European Alps. Sharing experiences, culture, and beautiful places with others blurs the line between work and play.

Ray is an AMGA Certified Ski and Alpine Guide, an AIARE Avalanche Course Leader and an American Avalanche Association professional member. He is an Ambassador for Backcountry Access, as well as a snow safety consultant for professional winter sport athletes and photographers.

He was a 4 x All American in Track and Field and the 250th American to ever run the Mile under 4:00, but now enjoys being an average trail jogger.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
  • AMGA Certified Ski Guide

Tim Dobbins

With notable first descents in the Alps, Tim Dobbins represents Alpenglow’s cutting edge guiding philosophy providing only the best guides for every trip and expedition.

Growing up in Oregon, Tim started out skiing at the young age of 4 years old. Tim grew up ski racing for 9 years before he moved on to backcountry skiing in Aspen, Colorado. He spent 4 years working as ski patrol at Snowmass Ski Resort.

Tim moved to Chamonix in the mid 90’s where he spent 6 seasons skiing and climbing while studying French. Tim says that Chamonix is where he really started leaning how to ski tour, rock climb, ice climb and eventually began skiing the steepest lines he could find.

Examples of those steep lines were the North East face of Les Courtes, Couloir Barbey from Aiguille D’Argentiere, Couloir Couturier from L’Aiguille Verte, Couloir du Diable on Mont Blanc du Tacul, East face of the Matterhorn and many, many others.

Tim has recently spent the last 8 years guiding and instructing in rock, ice, alpine and skiing as well as becoming an IFMGA aspirant mountain guide, an AMGA certified ski guide and AIARE level 1 course leader. He lives on Donner Lake in Truckee with his wife Gisele and sweet daughter Manu. 

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor
  • AMGA Certified Ski Guide

Pete Fasoldt

Pete Fasoldt is a certified AMGA Rock Guide who is thrilled to call Donner Summit his “home crag”. Originally hailing from Maine, Pete has worked as a ski patroller, as the owner of a rock guiding outfit in Acadia National Park, and as a first mate on sail boats, traveling thousands of offshore miles, including a recent attempt at transiting the famed Northwest Passage. Pete has completed several ascents of El Capitan, including a one-day solo. He has established first ascents in several countries across the globe and has a particular love of hard to reach alpine granite objectives. In 2004 and 2006 Pete became certified as a Wilderness First Responder and an Outdoor Emergency Care technician, respectively. Pete has guided people of all different climbing abilities, all over the country, and brings patience, humor, and a deep love of the sport to each course he leads.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Dave Nettle

Dave’s love for outdoor challenge, adventure and fun began early on by surviving his youth growing up in the Pacific Northwest climbing trees, running around the woods shooting BB guns and learning to “Be Prepared” the hard way on numerous Boy Scout backpacking trips into the rainy heart of the North Cascades.

In 1972 he started his lifelong pursuit and joy of rock climbing with his very first climb deep in the Sierra Nevada backcountry, which remains his favorite mountain range to share and enjoy.

In 1975, at age 17, he hiked the Pacific Crest Trail solo from Mexico to Canada and the following year hiked the Continental Divide Trail from Canada to Mexico, sealing his passion  for grand adventure and the desire to accomplish what he sets out to do.

His underlying philosophy of living life fully and approaching the world of adventure travel and alpinism with “confident uncertainty” has led him to the mountain ranges of the world where his climbing accomplishments are just a part of what he values: at the heart and soul of it all is the experience of interacting with and learning from the people, places and cultures along the way and sharing the challenge and beauty of wilderness with friends.

In addition to five decades of rock and alpine climbing which have included new routes and significant ascents throughout North America, South America, Europe and Asia, Dave is an accomplished ski mountaineer who hangs up his climbing shoes each winter in favor of backcountry alpine ski touring and hut to hut tours in the European Alps.

Dave brings 15 years of technical Rope Access and Rescue Training experience to the team. He has helped pioneer the use of Rope Access methods in place of traditional techniques to improve the safety and efficiency of ski lift, gondola, high angle and crevasse rescue procedures.  He is a certified level 3 SPRAT and IRATA supervisor and evaluator.

His blend of outdoor skills, professionalism and sense of humor make for memorable trips, not to mention epic slide show presentations which he loves to share with others.  Dave is the founder of a free community slideshow event in the Tahoe area that has been ongoing for over 25 years and continues to inform, entertain and inspire everyone to seek out and accomplish their dreams and goals. You can learn more about the Alpenglow Winter Film Series here.

Jarad Stiles

Jarad is a Tahoe native. A love for wild places is instilled in his nature. In 2009, he completed his AMGA Single Pitch Instructor certification and completed the Rock Guide course in Smith Rocks in 2015.

Jarad is also a certified Wilderness First Responder and has worked as a Rock Climbing Guide on Donner Summit for 8 years. Recently, he has found a new home in Joshua Tree, California, teaching rock climbing during the winter months. Climbing in Yosemite Valley honed his craft and forged his bond with the Big Stone. Multiple accents of El Cap, Half Dome, The Leaning Tower, and Washington Column (in a day) have led the way to Jarad’s success in the mountains.

Jarad, his lovely wife Dana, and their adorable puppy, Ruca embody the California spirit by chasing long days in the sun and living comfortably in balance with nature.

Guide Certifications
  • AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor

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    Self Rescue for Rock Climbers