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Alpamayo Team Update

Snow storm thwarts team’s summit attempt

Two nights ago our team of climbers was at high camp, preparing for their summit bid in the coming day or two. That night, 6″ of heavy snow fell in high camp and plastered the face of Alpamayo. The new layer of snow creates instabilities in the surface that are not ideal for safe climbing conditions. That morning, the team decided to pack it up and get back to base camp before more weather moved in.

An avalanche warning was posted the day after the storm and confirmed our team’s belief that it would…

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Alpamayo Team Stationed at Base Camp

Blue-green jewels tucked between the jagged peaks of the Peruvian Andes.

The team arrived at base camp on Thursday, July 5. They trekked past the spectacularly beautiful Santa Cruz Lakes, blue-green jewels tucked between the jagged peaks of the Peruvian Andes. Then the team turned up into the hanging valley that sits beneath Alpamayo, setting up their base camp at tree-line, approximately 13,500’/4,115m. The report from our team via satellite text:

“Team is feeling good- a couple small headaches (from altitude) but the team is stoked!”

The team is currently stationed at base camp. Yesterday they climbed to 16,200’/4,938m to set up Moraine Camp and…

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To the Gem of the Cordillera Blanca!

Lunch with a view at Laguna Churup.

Our Alpamayo expedition is underway!

We have arrived The calm and peaceful mountain hamlet of Huaraz!

The team & their objective:

Alpamayo (19,512 feet/5,947 meters) is the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Over the next two weeks, our team of 4 climbers will make their attempt at the iconic fluted Southwest Face.

Lead guide Nacho Espinosa: Nacho is a fully pinned IFMGA/UIAGM guide from Ecuador. He has guided dozens of high altitude technical peaks around the world and knows Alpamayo well. Nacho adds a wealth of authentic Andean experience to…

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Summer in South America

Photo: Van Wombwell (Alpamayo)

Weather is a huge factor when planning logistics for international expeditions. Fortunately our recent Alpamayo (19,512′ / 5,947m) expedition had the most ideal conditions for their climb! The team reached the summit in full sun and had the mountain to themselves with perfect weather. Join us next summer, the dates for the Alpamayo & Quitaraju expedition are July 1-15, 2018!

In July we also had two private personal trips in Peru for Alpenglow guides/owners, Adrian Ballinger and Logan Talbott. Logan had a great time in Peru and climbed Alpamayo and Artesonraju with his climbing partner, Eric. In…

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Successful Summit on Alpamayo!

Day 10: CUMBRE! Our 2017 expedition team summited Alpamayo (19,512′ / 5947m) at 9am (7am PST). They had great views and the mountain to themselves! They are back at Col Camp (18,000′ / 5486m), everyone is happy and tired. Mañana is a rest day! CHEERS to a strong team and a successful summit!!

Alpamayo is known as the gem of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Ever since it was first climbed in 1951, alpinists have been flocking to attempt its fluted Southwest Face. Many fledgling high altitude climbers consider this peak a culmination of their early climbing careers.

For more…

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Summit Push on Alpamayo

Text: Esteban “Topo” Mena

“Day 8: We moved to Moraine Camp (16,000′ / 4,877m) today. Team is strong and stoked. Tomorrow will move to Col Camp.

Day 9: Got to Col Camp(18,000′ / 5,486m) couple hours ago. Team is settled in tents, already had lunch and working on water now. All is good, Dan & Van are stoked. Alpamayo summit tomorrow! Yesss!”

For more information on our Alpamayo and Quitaraju expedition, or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. For questions email  info@alpenglowexpeditions.com or call our office at 877-873-5376. We hope to climb…

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Rest Day for Alpamayo Expedition Team

Day 7: After stashing their gear yesterday the team returned to Base Camp (13,500′ / 4115m) for the night. Today is a rest day in Base Camp. The team will use the day to review advanced rope skills, organize gear and food for the climb, and eat great meals prepared by Alfredo.

Tomorrow they will move up to Moraine Camp at 16,000′ / 4,877m and take it all in. The team is strong and stoked!

Follow along on our social channels (Instagram and Facebook) for additional updates and photos.

For more information on our Alpamayo and Quitaraju expedition, or any of our other international expeditions check…

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Alpamayo Expedition Update From Base Camp

Update from lead guide, Esteban “Topo” Mena for the Alpenglow expedition team on Alpamayo: “We are in Base Camp, tomorrow we carry on to Moraine Camp. All is good.”

Day 5: Today the team continued trekking past the Santa Cruz Lakes and turned up into the hanging valley that sits beneath Alpamayo. They established Base Camp at treeline, approximately 13,500′ /4,115 m. Tomorrow the team will carry equipment to Moraine Camp (16,000 feet/4,877 meters), at the edge of the glacier. After stashing their gear they will return to Base Camp for one of Alfredo’s famous feasts.

Follow along on our social channels (Instagram and…

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Alpamayo & Quitaraju expedition updates

Text & Photos: Esteban “Topo” Mena

“Day 2: Yesterday we went to Antacocha, climbed a 5 pitch 5.10-route called Noches de Adrenalina (13,451′ / 4100m) First summit of the trip!

We are having second breakfast at Cafe California. The plan is to leave Huaraz today, 3hr drive to the trailhead (Cashapampa), and tonight we sleep in Llamacorral.

Day 3: We got to Llamacorral in 4hr from Cashapampa. Team is feeling good. Tomorrow base camp! Yesss!”

 

For more information on our Alpamayo and Quitaraju expedition, or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. For any questions call our office…

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Success and Fun in Peru!

We had a great trip to Peru! Climbing Alpamayo is an experience of a lifetime and our team of four climbers and two guides had a fantastic trip, definitely evident by the smiles in all the pictures they sent us. Chad and Jaime guided Alpenglow climbers Heather, Alasdair, Charles, and Todd up Alpamayo and helped them successfully enjoy an authentic Peruvian climbing experience complete with delicious homemade food, donkeys, trips to Huaraz and Lima, and of course, climbing. 

The Cordillera Blanca is one of the…

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