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Beacon Battery Protocol

North Side of Castle Peak, photo: Brennan Lagasse

Give Your Avalanche Beacon the Batteries it Deserves

Tips and tricks from guide Jules Hanna.

We caught up with Jules while he was teaching an AIARE rescue course last weekend. Here’s his rundown beacon battery protocol.

Alkaline or Lithium?

Short answer: Alkaline. BUT, check your manufacturer, while it is likely that you should only be using alkaline batteries, some beacons accept lithium batteries. (Do not use rechargeable batteries though!) What’s the big deal? Alkaline batteries slowly discharge their power.  Lithium batteries will go

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Ama Dablam 2018 Wrap Up

Words and photos by lead guide Chad Peele

Arriving in the Chaos of Kathmandu

It’s been two years since I was last in Nepal. Arriving at the Kathmandu airport was the same uncontrolled chaos as always. Confusion surrounded us with hoards of people trying to locate bags so they could get out as fast as possible. This time luck was on my side and my bags popped up quickly, promoting a speedy exit!

Over the next several days, I worked on recovering from my jet lag and prepping for our upcoming adventure into the mountains. This year we had three…

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Michelle & Emily’s Ring of Fire Photo Blog

On their recent Ring of Fire Expedition, ski mountaineers Emily Harrington and Michelle Parker combined the hard work of climbing with the most efficient form of descent (that isn’t flying) and skied down Cotopaxi! Check out these beautiful photos by Michelle from the trip.

Emily and Michelle attempted to ski Cotopaxi a few years back but were turned around in marginal conditions – you can read all about it here. This year it looks like conditions were much better, congratulations on the summit ladies!

 

To the hut! Hosteria Tambopaxi. Climbing tomorrow.    // …

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Skiing The Ring of Fire with Emily Harrington

Cotopaxi’s summit with the steaming caldera below.

We caught up with Emily Harrington for a quick chat in Quito right before she headed into the mountains for a Ring of Fire Ski Expedition. Both she and Adrian are in Ecuador this season to complete two different objectives. Adrain will be guiding a Cotopaxi Rapid Ascent team while Emily will be skiing and climbing Cotopaxi with Michelle Parker and crew. We’re wishing the team good climbing conditions this season. They have encountered some rough storms during previous attempts!

 

Q: First off, can you tell us about your objective in

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AIARE Avalanche Education with Ben Weaver

Ski season is nearly upon us so it’s time to start thinking about dialing in your backcountry skills again. We caught up with AIARE instructor Ben Weaver and asked him a couple of questions about this season’s avalanche training program at Alpenglow Expeditions.

Can you start by introducing yourself? What’s your background? What drew you to teaching AIARE courses?

I am ski guide and avalanche course instructor at Alpenglow Expeditions.  I am in my third season at Alpenglow and loving it.  I was a professional ski patroller at Mt. Hood Meadows in Oregon for 5 years. 

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Ama Dablam & Everest Base Camp Trek Update

Lunch spot across River in Phakding

We’re back to the Himalaya this week with two separate teams accomplishing different objectives in the Khumbu Valley. Our guides are joined by a team of trekkers heading to Everest Base Camp and another team setting their sights on Ama Dablam.

Touch down in Lukla with fabulous weather!

Team moving around a Moni Stone

Everest Base Camp Trek
This isn’t just any EBC trek. The team connects with our Ama climbing team in Kathmandu and tags along with the working climbing team until the climbers split off…

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The Inside Scoop on Via Ferrata with Braden Mayfield

Photo: Philip Luedtke

Opening week of Via Ferrata was a total whirlwind and energy is running high at our home base in Squaw Valley. We had a big turnout of locals and visitors alike, with everyone from young kids to grandparents out scrambling on the rocks. We caught up with guide Braden Mayfield in between guiding sessions and asked him a couple of questions about his experience so far.

First off, can you give us a brief rundown of what a via ferrata is?  

A via ferrata is a mountain climbing route that has been modified with steel…

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IFMGA Certification with Ray Hughes

We had a chance to go climbing with guide Ray Hughes in Red Rocks this week. Ray is preparing for his final AMGA rock guide exam and trying not to get burnt to a crisp in the desert heat. 

If you haven’t had a chance to see Red Rocks for yourself, let us tell you, the climbing is SWEET! The red sandstone cliffs offer plenty of moderate multipitch routes and some tough sport climbing as well.

 Now, onto the interview. 

Q: Ray, can you give us a rundown of what you’re up to? Can…

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Skiing Pow with Dave Nettle

An interview with Dave Nettle: Where to ski in Tahoe

We caught up with legendary ski/rock guide Dave Nettle in between a climbing trip in the Bugaboos and hosting a gondola evacuation training at the Oakland Zoo.

 

Q: Hey Dave, what’s one of your favorite places in Lake Tahoe to ski guide?

Dave: For me the Silver Peak – Pole Creek area is definitely a personal favorite.

Q: What’s the terrain like?

Dave: The terrain has many exposures, slope angles and forested or open bowl choices to pick from… I can

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The Road to Cho Base Camp

Some creative fun with “CHO OYU” photos

The Cho Oyu Rapid Ascent Team has arrived in Base Camp!

After enjoying a traditional Tibetan lunch and some hot tea, the team headed out for an acclimatization hike up to 5,350m/17,552’. Guide @estebantopomena reports that everyone is feeling good and fired up to keep climbing. Tomorrow the team will organize gear and then head out for another acclimatization hike in the afternoon. The team has been traveling for the past 3 days. Here’s a quick rundown of what’s happened so far:

Traveling to Chengdu,

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