This thoughtful blog was written by guide Zeb Blais two days after their successful summit of Mt Everest. Enjoy the report.
The last few days have been full of triumphs and tragedies on #MountEverest. Lots of summits by climbers, guides and #Sherpa with and without oxygen. Lots of deaths and injuries.
The triumphs have come through hard work, perseverance, patience and good decision making. I’m proud to say our @alpenglowexpeditions team made it, 100%, without frostbite, major altitude sickness or injury.
Solid preparation helped us overcome unexpected obstacles. The biggest of which was the failure of two, brand new, top of the line oxygen regulators above 28,000′ in total darkness on our summit push.
One of the failed regs was mine. When it happened I felt like a deep sea diver with a severed air line. I knew the seconds mattered. I was not acclimatized to breath 28,500′ air for long. I scrambled to get my pack off and dig out our team’s second spare mask and regulator. @chadpeele helped me get the mask on and set the flow.
The experience really set the tone of the climb for me- we had swam into the deep waters of the ocean and swimming back was entirely up to us. We had prepared well, bringing two extra regulators on a climb where cutting ounces matters, and it paid off.